Speed climbing is stupid and dangerous.

Tradiban wrote:

Was thinking again about this today and remembered that alot of speed climbing involves pulling on gear, stepping on bolts, "aid", etc. Would be cool to know the fastest free ascent of The Nose.

Caldwell did it in 11 hrs and then went and did Freerider the same day.

http://www.speedclimb.com/yosemite/thenose.htm

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=114312&f=0&b=0

nathanael wrote:

Caldwell did it in 11 hrs and then went and did Freerider the same day.

http://www.speedclimb.com/yosemite/thenose.htm

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=114312&f=0&b=0

So is 11hrs the real Nose speed record? 

Tradiban wrote:

So is 11hrs the real Nose speed record? 

No, it's the 100% free climbing record of the 4 or 5 climbers who have done it. The actual speed climbing record is by any climbing means possible.

Stop trolling!   

Marc801 C wrote:

No, it's the 100% free climbing record of the 4 or 5 climbers who have done it. The actual speed climbing record is by any climbing means possible.

Stop trolling!   

I'm trying to have a real conversation about a topic that effects all of us, man. Keep your negative comments to yourself, buddy.

So, yank on a bunch of gear and you're a Gumbo, do it really fast and you're a legend?

This whole thing was basically invented by Hans to put his name up on something. They don't call him "Hollywood" for nothing. Free climbing something as fast as possible is one thing but this by "any means necessary" business is just a mechanical perversion of the sport. 

Unpure, unpure, wash thy hands and repent!

Tradiban wrote:

I'm trying to have a real conversation about a topic that effects all of us, man. Keep your negative comments to yourself, buddy.

So, yank on a bunch of gear and you're a Gumbo, do it really fast and you're a legend?

This whole thing was basically invented by Hans to put his name up on something. They don't call him "Hollywood" for nothing. Free climbing something as fast as possible is one thing but this by "any means necessary" business is just a mechanical perversion of the sport. 

Unpure, unpure, wash thy hands and repent!

Actually, I don't disagree. The whole speed climbing the Nose has become a risky circus stunt.

Marc801 C wrote:

Actually, I don't disagree. The whole speed climbing the Nose has become a risky circus stunt.

Most outsiders would say that about climbing in general eh?

Simuling can be stupid and dangerous if you are placing pro once every 100ft on a section with high fall potential. OR it can be done very safely and allow for routes to be done in a day instead of requiring bivouacs. Same can be said for short fixing.

Anything can be dangerous (Top roping on a 5.5 can be dangerous if there is loose rock, your hold(s) break, you hit your belayer with the rock, and he drops you).

Just learn the techniques to climb safely, constantly check for potential issues, and we're good! Learn how to climb, learn how to belay, learn how to identify loose rock, learn how to lead, learn how to place pro, learn how to simul-climb, learn how to short fix, don't be afraid to back off when you aren't comfortable in a situation, don't be afraid to correct your climbing partner, be attentive.

Learn how to-do all these things and everything is going to be fine 99.99% of the time!

(The other 0.01% is for when you crash your car on the way home. Driving scares me way more than anything I do on the wall)

Most athletes are excited that rise has created it to the Olympic stage, however, several have criticized the format. Some have compared it to forcing marathon runners to contend during a 100-meter dash and vice-versa. Boulderers and sports climbers can get to dedicate time to coaching only for speed rise to own an attempt at the gold. united rival admitted speed rise is way far away from what most deliberate to be the spirit of rising, however, what precisely is speed climbing? And what is the appeal? The discipline generally sees very little participation and press in North America, wherever competition climbers are less inclined to travel internationally for tournament events.

Roger Nelson wrote:

Most athletes are excited that rise has created it to the Olympic stage, however, several have criticized the format. Some have compared it to forcing marathon runners to contend during a 100-meter dash and vice-versa. Boulderers and sports climbers can get to dedicate time to coaching only for speed rise to own an attempt at the gold. united rival admitted speed rise is way far away from what most deliberate to be the spirit of rising, however, what precisely is speed climbing? And what is the appeal? The discipline generally sees very little participation and press in North America, wherever competition climbers are less inclined to travel internationally for tournament events.

That's not the kind of "speed climbing" that the OP created this thread about...

Marc801 C wrote:

Actually, I don't disagree. The whole speed climbing the Nose has become a risky circus stunt.

Brad G might agree with you. Ran into him at one of the reel rock events and he said he and Jim were finished pushing their time. Said they got into some sketch this go

https://soundcloud.com/dan-goodwin-638476911/the-worlds-most-dangerous-race-featuring-brad-gobright-jim-reynolds-w-hans-florine-john-long

• Brad G wrote:

https://soundcloud.com/dan-goodwin-638476911/the-worlds-most-dangerous-race-featuring-brad-gobright-jim-reynolds-w-hans-florine-john-long

Alex and Tommy. This will be interesting!

Brad G wrote:

https://soundcloud.com/dan-goodwin-638476911/the-worlds-most-dangerous-race-featuring-brad-gobright-jim-reynolds-w-hans-florine-john-long

I listened. Now we know for fact that speed climbing is dangerous, but is it stupid?

And now to interject a little positivity plus a sobering reminder here is a link to the Quinn Brett Recovery Fund.

https://www.youcaring.com/quinnbrett-980578

Some wise words from Jordan Cannon

http://rockandice.com/climbing-epics/a-long-way-down/

Doing the same speed run again and again repeatedly is stupid. Nothing wrong with doing the same route once in a while for speed.

ViperScale . wrote: Doing the same speed run again and again repeatedly is stupid. Nothing wrong with doing the same route once in a while for speed.

How do you feel about the downhill skiing disciplines or speed skating or any of the track and field racing events and multiple others? What's the difference?

Tradiban wrote: Some wise words from Jordan Cannon

http://rockandice.com/climbing-epics/a-long-way-down/

Thanks for sharing, good article

Ted Pinson wrote:

Climbing already is a dick measuring contest.  How is speed climbing dangerous?  I get it if you’re talking about NIAD and linking/running out pitches outside, but running up and down an autobelay is about the safest form of climbing you can do.

So girls shouldn't climb since we have no dicks?

Ryan Swanson wrote: Speed climbing is dangerous

Ha, what happened there?!

Ryan Swanson wrote:

Some kid decked while speed climbing.  Duh

Apparently they use two belayers.  The guy with the grigri is the top hand and pulls in slack like a mother fucker (if the climber is fast), and the second belayer pulls the rope through the grigri.  Belayer #2 was off donkey dicking around or something, and no one noticed.  Well, no one noticed until that kid bounced off the ground.

Belayor #2 wasn't even attached?