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Kong Slyde?
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Gonna start playing with one....8mm (easier to adjust) v. 9mm?? Saw some old threads on the topic, curious about current state of acceptance of this doo-hickie....:) Tired of old school daisies for aid/jugging/rigging routes etc. Petzl Connect is pricy, Slyde is cheap cheap. |
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The 2nd result when googling "kong slyde" petzl connect adjust... https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/112278575/petzl-connect-adjust |
Cron wrote: Yep, read them both. Looking for current thoughts. Thanks! |
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I have used both. I climbed the Muir Wall with the Slyde. It was shit. The connect adjust is way better |
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I can't speak for the use of the slyde for aid climbing, but I use mine as a personal tether. It's paired with half rope somewhere between 8.5mm and 9mm in diameter and doesn't slip at all, even when bounced on. I'm technically using it incorrectly and use it like one would use the connect adjust (the plate is technically supposed to be clipped to your belay loop, not to the bolt/gear) but haven't had any issues with using it like this. If you're going to use it like this, make sure you test it out thoroughly on the ground and fine-tune the rope diameter and dry treatment to ensure that it will work properly with your rope. It is easy to pull in slack when weighted or unweighted and easy to feed out slack when unweighted and partially weighted but it's difficult to feed out slack when fully weighted, such as at a hanging belay. |
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Just picked up a Slyde this week. I had intended to use it with some 8mm cord I had lying around, but found that if I weighted the system quickly, the cord would compress laterally enough that the working end and the tail could move past each other (switch places), and it wouldn't brake anymore, and I would slide to the stopper knot. I bought some 9mm cord and it didn't have this problem. Caveat: It's possible that a different 8mm cord that's less compressible would be totally fine. I've seen it sold with 8mm cord as a package before. I have only been outside with it once so far, but like the set-up I have so far. I have it set up like a Dual Adjust, with two arms, one adjustable, one not. |
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I tried it with 8mm too and it slipped. I switched to 9mm (which is also what the instructions say) and it works great. I burned a small hole and added a key ring past the stopper knot so that I can keep it more compact with a biner when not in use. I would recommend this over a purcell prussik as it is lighter, smaller and more adjustable. I used it for a NIAD and found it nice because twisting was not a problem compared to daisies, and the adjustability was pretty useful. I would find it hard to extend a few times, but I would usually keep them long anyway (just like a normal daisy). |
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In my limited experience with my slide you need a supple rope/cord. I put a chunk of 9.1 BlueWater Icon on it and it's super hard to use. It's just what I had lying around and handy at the time so I'll be trying some other material with it but as a heads up, a stiff cord like I tried makes it super hard to use effectively. |
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I've used this thing with a trimmed off piece of an old and beat-up 9mm tendon rope. As a $6 alternative to the petzl things, it works great. After after several months or a year of intense use, you will likely need to swap out a new piece of rope. I found this out when (again, after dozens of days of use) the rope passing through the oval hole would flip/invert just like Peter Carlson described above. This wasn't a big deal though, as it only can happen if you use cord that's too small, or rope that has gone really really soft and flat. It still easily catches on the stopper knot anyway. I use mine exactly how Eli Poss described. I think that this method (having the slyde connected to your rope chunk, not to the harness) is actually suggested by KONG. But Rather than actually tieing myself into my tether rope, I just leave a really burly perma-cinched overhand knot with a loop, then I girth hitch it into my harness. That way, I never have 2 tie-ins and it's easy to take on and off and trade between partners. 
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blakeherrington wrote: In the instruction and safety manual that comes with the plate it is depicted in a different setup. I honestly don't know which one is correct, or if both are correct, since the video, made by kong, shows a different setup.  https://www.kong.it/media/Component/CatalogProduct/p327-slyde/attachments/I_KONG_KISA_SLYDE.pdf |
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An advantage of having the Slyde on the harness is it is always within reach. If it were on the anchor point with a longer rope, you might not be able to reach it. |
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The connect adjust is awesome. Buy once, cry once. |
King Tut wrote: |
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Kong Slyde works well between 8.5 and 9 mm as other people said. It was not funny hanging on a roof once when the 8mm rope started to slide...apart from that I used for everything since years and like it very much. Enjoy it |
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If you look at the design of both devices, the way in which friction is generated is totally different with each design. The Kong Slyde uses a bend in the load end rope to pinch the slack end - preventing progress. The Petzl Connect Adjust is a totally different design which uses a cleverly engineered channel to pinch the rope between the body of the device and the carabiner (in which the rope is not bending and little friction remains while in the adjustment position). The comparison, even though the desired function is the same, isn't valid or fair due to the vast differences between the two devices. The Kong Slyde is cheaper (yes!) but does not work as smoothly, it doesn't come with a sewn cord specifically designed for the body, It has the potential (even when using the correct diameter cord) to slip. I have both devices and do not use the Slyde anymore on walls. I do like the Slyde but it is not as good as the Connect Adjust. The inherent differences in the design of both products makes this comparison similar to comparing a tibloc to an ascender - they both will grab a rope, but they do so with different designs, one is more insecure and yes, much cheaper - I also like and use both in different situations. I still use my Kong Slyde at anchors. But not on walls where the ease of adjustment not only saves time but after thousands of aid moves and adjustments on a 30+ Pitch wall the smooth adjustment of the Connect Adjust will save your arms, neck, back and energy, it might even stop you from wiggling around and blowing a precarious hook. |
Cole Lawrence wrote: Thanks for that. I very much get the sense that as a general PAS for multiple rappels or simple jugging etc the Slyde is adequate. Leading multiple aid pitches puts a premium on precise adjustment and it sounds like the Connect is much preferred by many. |
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Kong also makes a fifi hook with the same autoblocing feature as the Slyde. That autoblocing action can also be used with the rope and a foot for a no added equipment foot ascender. |
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I played with a few configurations and this proved to be the easiest way to lengthen the tether when clipped to something. Like Eli and others said, it requires partially unweighting it. While my weight is off it, I flip the device and hold it in place while I lean onto it and rope pulls through. Once it’s at the length I want, I let go of the Slyde and it locks up again. Not sure if this is within recommended usage and there may be potential dangers if the Slyde moves up onto the gate or spine of the biner rather that staying in the bottom of it (causing it to los incorrectly), but it’s been working for me. |
Drew Nevius wrote: I played with a few configurations and this proved to be the easiest way to lengthen the tether when clipped to something. Like Eli and others said, it requires partially unweighting it. While my weight is off it, I flip the device and hold it in place while I lean onto it and rope pulls through. Once it’s at the length I want, I let go of the Slyde and it locks up again. Not sure if this is within recommended usage and there may be potential dangers if the Slyde moves up onto the gate or spine of the biner rather that staying in the bottom of it (causing it to los incorrectly), but it’s been working for me. Link no workee. |
FrankPS wrote: Can you try again? I just adjusted the permissions. If clicking doesn’t work, maybe paste it in? ( youtu.be/lmygw-FJHa8) |
Drew Nevius wrote: Works now. Thanks, Drew. |
