North Face fail

Mark E Dixon wrote:

Have you looked at the ATC user guide linked above?

Looks to me as if the pictured device is being used just fine in high friction mode.

Please correct me if I am missing something. 

They are getting their belay loops in a twist (figuratively and literately) because the brake strand is positioned at the top instead of at the bottom.

Mark E Dixon wrote:

Have you looked at the ATC user guide linked above?

Looks to me as if the pictured device is being used just fine in high friction mode.

Please correct me if I am missing something. 

I think there was a humor aspect that you've completely missed in your endeavor to be boring. 

aikibujin wrote:

Don't forget the Grigri and the EDK!

Both are fine additions. 

The belay would still work, but I have to admit it's pretty funny a climbing company would get this wrong at a photo shoot.

+1 for this thread

aikibujin wrote:

They are getting their belay loops in a twist (figuratively and literately) because the brake strand is positioned at the top instead of at the bottom.

Thanks.

Went totally over my head.

Have used an ATC maybe a dozen times in the last couple of years.

You all have way too much time on your hands to knit pick over this stuff.  

Beean wrote:

I'll add this to the list of things I like to see discussed on MP.

The list also includes quads, bowlines, dogs, drones and music at the crag, OLH, shock loading and how to rack a biner. 

Gee thanks. 

At least the dogs and I can listen to music while pitching biners and bananas at drones.

;-) OLH

Mark E Dixon wrote:

Have you looked at the ATC user guide linked above?

Looks to me as if the pictured device is being used just fine in high friction mode.

Please correct me if I am missing something. 

I prefer having the brake end on the far side, going away from my body. Like i said it will still work this way. It looks like the last picture in the first row of the ATC guide shows it being used with the brake end away from the body, the other pictures don't show the rest of the harness so you can't tell which way it is set up. 

I did this the wrong way for like two years. Never had a problem ever. In theory it probably has some affect on holding power/friction.... I never noticed it. I will say, it probably is exacerbated by gym climbing or overhung climbing.... as in, the more vertical the climbing is the less it's doing its job.

When loading the device correctly and catching a fall the rope should make a 90deg bend, 180deg bend, and 90deg bend. When used such as this more likely the rope makes a 15deg, 180deg, 90deg....

Interestingly enough, I had this exact debate with someone at the Gunks on Columbus Weekend. I mentioned it going through safety checks thinking it was a mistake and would be more awkward for him. Him, significantly my senior, and with 35 plus years more experience than me, said he's only ever loaded it that way. He told me I was wrong and that I didn't understand because he was left handed, failed to see the difference.

It legit doesn't matter... I ponder... do any of these MP gold threads...?

First, this is an ad not a how too picture.  Second if you took a snap shot every second while you are belaying someone I guarantee at some point you will be "doing it wrong" and people could find reason to pick it apart.   When I learned to belay it we used a swami belt with no device.  A simple body belay and it held plenty of falls.  In fact it seems there are more accidents now with fancier gear and methods than there was with simpler gear and methods.   I'm not saying I want to go back to a body belay but I certainly am not going to have a stroke if my belayers brake line runs out of the grooves or doesn't have the "right" degree of bend.  Don't sweat the small stuff, people aren't dying because of this, people are dying because they don't finish tying in or don't knot a rap line, or poor communication.  Not this crap.

The point of the post was not nitpick and call out climbing heresy. Just simply found it funny that a climbing company would set up something incorrectly (even if insignificant) for an official photoshoot.

Caleb Schwarz wrote:

The point of the post was not nitpick and call out climbing heresy. Just simply found it funny that a climbing company would set up something incorrectly (even if insignificant) for an official photoshoot.

The North Face isn't a climbing company anymore than The Gap is a climbing company.

Haha this is true

But they do sponsor and equip one of the best climbing athlete teams out there. They could have asked Conrad Anker how to set it up ;)

wait is OLH Hellenor?

Caleb Schwarz wrote:

The point of the post was not nitpick and call out climbing heresy. Just simply found it funny that a climbing company would set up something incorrectly (even if insignificant) for an official photoshoot.

I can't believe some people are getting their panties in a bunch over this. It's highly unlikely that NF set this up - probably done by the photographer with an agency model, neither of which climb or know anything about climbing. Approval for using the photo was likely from some marketing grunt who also doesn't climb.  

Marc801 C wrote:

I can't believe some people are getting their panties in a bunch over this. It's highly unlikely that NF set this up - probably done by the photographer with an agency model, neither of which climb or know anything about climbing. Approval for using the photo was likely from some marketing grunt who also doesn't climb.  

True- I worked on video shoots for bike companies and there's generally only a marketing manager on set- that marketing manager believe it or not- may not(probably doesn't) do said activities. Although- you'd think the model or actor would fit the bill.

Marc801 C wrote:

I can't believe some people are getting their panties in a bunch over this. It's highly unlikely that NF set this up - probably done by the photographer with an agency model, neither of which climb or know anything about climbing. Approval for using the photo was likely from some marketing grunt who also doesn't climb.  

Yep I agree completely. As I said, I merely found it humorous :)

looks to me like the picture from the user guide and the picture from the ad that Viperscale is saying are the same setup are actually not the same setup, right?

ViperScale wrote:

Here is a picture of basically what he is doing.