What bolt is this?
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Looking to find out the brand and if anyone has used these. Considering they were in a bag of random climbing hardware bits I would like to find out as much as possible before deciding to use. All I can tell is that they are 3-3/4" in length and are possibly 304 stainless. One of the bolts in question. With a Hilti KB3 for comparison. |
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I'd trust it for rappelling since there's always 2 bolts at an anchor with equatention, but I wouldn't set people up to take lead falls on a mystery bolt. I've never seen that bolt but I've seen a lot like it that work great. I haven't seen that gold color in wedge bolts I'm fimiliar with |
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So apparently they do cad plate 304 SS. Run a magnet over them. The magnet will either very lightly grab or not grab the SS because of the nickel and cadnium content |
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The gold color is just the crap light in my garage. More or less standard stainless coloring. I'm looking for more specific info such as manufacturer, ultimate load values, specified torque value, ect. Also it would be great to know if there are any known reliability issues as not all wedge anchors are equal. |
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Tightening torque. 45 ft lb ultimate tension. 3450 lb ultimate shear. 4135 lb source. Redhead |
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Looks like the simpson strong tie bolts that I have used (although the picture on their website is different). They're pretty junky bolts that are only decent in bullet hard rock. The hilti is a far superior bolt, with better clip engagement (grips hole better) and stamped threads (stronger ). |
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IcePick wrote: Not redheads. This might help. Left to right: Powers SD4, Powers Power stud, Redhead Trubolt, Simpson Strong-Tie Wedge All, Hilti KB3, ??? bolt. I pay very close attention to the hardware I install and record what I used where in case any reliability issues develop in the future. |
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It looks to me like it could be a CONFAST wedge bolt (based on the aggressive clip nubs). https://www.concretefasteners.com/3-8-x-3-3-4-stainless-steel-wedge-anchor |
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Ken Noyce wrote: I was going to suggest the same. |
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Confast is a good guess. The expansion clip on your bolt says 304 so it's a good bet the whole bolt is 304. Powers also can have similar clips (although the cone knurls and the printed "3/8 POWERS SS" are different), here is a 316ss Power-Stud from maybe 5 years ago or so. |
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Two cheapo brand bolts I have that look very similar but aren't: The left is (supposedly) a wedge-all. I'm pretty confident in this, but the box they came in is gone. It's overall a poor quality anchor and I definitely won't get any more. The threads cross thread very easily, even at torque specifications, and the clip doesn't set that well either. The right is a confast (thunderstud I believe) and works better for hard rock. They both have similar tension and shear capacities, as well as ~ 25 ft-lbs torque requirements. |
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So I placed a 3 of these mystery bolts in my test rock (2' x 2' x 18" medium grain granite) and got rather poor results. First off, these bolts have no extended tip to guard against thread damage when tapping them into place, which is not a great design in my opinion. Once all three bolts were delicately driven in, I attempted to torque one to 25 ft-lbs. This resulted in a spinner due to the threads crossing as before the torque was reached. The other two were successfully tightened to 20 ft-lbs, though the threads still crossed and the bolts began to spin as I went to back the nuts off. These are good for the trash can. |
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C. Williams wrote: Threads can't magically cross when you are tightening a bolt, they either start crossed, or they aren't crossed. Most likely, the stainless started galling and seized up on itself. |
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Ken Noyce wrote: This is so. Thread galling is a bigger problem with cut/machined threads though you can reduce it by brushing afterwards (an abrasive nylon brush or a polisher). As standard most bolts actually come with a protective coating on them to prevent galling (the slimy feel you get on your hands if you handle a new box of them) but carried and used with the normal care climbers take this can get dusty and they seize up. |
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C. Williams wrote: Curious. Did you brush and blow the holes out well? |
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Ken Noyce wrote: True and thanks for correcting and clarifying. Many magical things can happen when posting after a few beers. The threads were definitely machined as the tooling lines are quite prevalent. My guess is that these bolts are a super cheap off brand and they skipped the anti-galling treatment Jim described. |
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Jason Halladay wrote: Naw, the more dust the better right?! The holes were brushed with a 1/2" nylon hole brush and blown out with my air compressor. |