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How sketchy is being lowered from above ?
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Some solutions to unusual multipitch situations involve lowering your partner from above. I have mostly shied away from lowering because (1) without good communication it runs the risk of lowering them into a cactus/tree/snake, (2) negotiating roofs/lips feels more comfortable when one controls one's own rate of descent. Wondering what others think - am I being overly cautions about this ? Any tips for the two problems I mentioned ? To clarify, I'm not asking about situations where the decision to lower is dictated by overwhelming considerations. I'm asking about situations where other good options are available, but maybe lowering saves a few minutes. |
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1. The best lowering down belay device is no belay device. Use Munter hitch. 2. Back it up with any autoblock knot/hitch/device (e.g., prussik). 3. Use it as the last resort option only. |
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Once, my wife lowered me into the last pitch of a big multipitch route in the Verdon Gorge. She couldn't/didn't want to rap in with me (and there was no ground-up option), but we had traveled a long way and I really wanted to try at least one pitch of this particular route. So, down I went, with her lowering me off a fixed anchor at the rim of the canyon. It was the most terrifying experience of my life and I definitely wouldn't recommend it just based on the fear factor alone. Slowly slipping into the void, having no direct control of the rope, with vultures circling below you was not my cup o' tea. Being lowered in was a million times scarier than climbing back out. There's probably other good reasons I didn't consider at the time as well, like getting stuck hanging in midair with no easy way to communicate or climb the rope. |
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Statistically speaking, most lowering from above situations end with the upper partner being forced to cut the rope in order to save himself and/or his sister. Most prefer to avoid these situations. |
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There’s a famous saying in here: yer gonna die |
Serge Smirnov wrote: Therein lies the issue. I've never heard of a good thing happening in climbing where people didn't have good communication. Maybe that's why lowering without good communication sucks. And I would argue that for 2, the solution is the same solution for 1 - good communication. Or at the very least, a good plan. But that also requires good communication, so tl;dr: good communication. |
Pavel Burov wrote: This. My partner unknown to me brought a 7.7 tag line with us to fix on the last pitch of the project we were on this last weekend...He had rapped on it many times with a munter but didn't anticipate I outweigh him by 80lbs and I was way not psyched to see if there was going to be enough friction for me to try the same on such thin cord. This was our last rope and only way to get on the ground. What we did was have him lower me on a Munter on the anchor, then he controlled it by another Munter on his harness belay loop to add more friction. Plenty of friction, total control lowering my "larger than your average bear" physique. Yes, this was in the dark too lol. All made it safe and sound. :) Only trouble with a Munter can be the build up of twist, so nice to have the end free so you can shake it out as it builds up. |
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I've done it many times but never considered that there could be a snake down there. |
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Instead of having her lower you, tie into rope for climbing, pull enough slack to reach desired spot to start climbing, put rope in Grigri there, have wife hold brake strand or tie off, rap down on single strand off locked Grigri, when get to end - start climbing and her take slack like normal top belay. |
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I would say it all depends on your device, lowering from above can be pretty simple and care free with a grigri in use. |
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It's a great (and I'd argue fundamental) skillset to have in your tool box. Done properly, there are many times when it's an appropriate technique, Done properly being the critical bit. Among other things, lowering from above properly involves maintaining line of site to your partner as much as possible, employing appropriate backups (autobloc on the brake strand for example), CLOSING THE SYSTEM, managing sharp or abrupt edge transitions, high masterpoints, CLOSING THE SYSTEM and CLOSING THE SYSTEM. |
Pavel Burov wrote: Wait why wouldn't you use a grigri? Ya yer gonna die |
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I can see some situations where this might be useful. For example, a single lower on Madame G with a 70m rope would get you to the ground, with little danger of hitting things and good visibility since almost the entire lower would be hanging. The remaining climber still has to rap twice, but if it's the end of the day, the first climber can be packing up gear while the second one raps. |
rockhard wrote: Rapping with a gri-gri is an option, and it can be used to lower....but honestly, a Munter has way more control than a gri-gri. I use a gri-gri often for single rope rapping, as it is useful to be able to stop anywhere and effectively be "on belay" as compared to rapping with a Munter. |
King Tut wrote: Rappelling with my DMM Pivot with a Sterling Hollow Block Prusik backup, I can go hands free with all the ropes I've used. When lowering it (when using a redirected belay) I imagine it has as much control as the Munter. Given the twisting caused by the Munter, what's people's reasoning for not preferring ATC-style devices like my Pivot? |
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To answer the OP's questions: Establish a clear method of communication before you are lowering. For example, "lower slow" or "stop". Also, if your be layer is not familiar with a top belay, in the moment is not a time to give a crash course. Find somewhere else to climb or spend some time in "ground school" before the big game. You and your partner should be on the same page with techniques. There is an element of mystery if you don't know the route or cannot see to the point which you will lower to. You will have to decide what your acceptable level of risk is. If acceptable lower is deemed too risky for a hazard, be it perceived or otherwise, don't do it. Find somewhere else to climb. I don't think that you are being overly cautious as much all you want to make sure that you don't die. Best way to do that is to find a credible instructor and learn best practices. Then practice in a supervised environment. Learn more than one way to lower. Be clear of what technique you will use and the equipment involved. As for the last part of your post: I guess if there is a cliff that is easier access to the top than the bottom or you only want to do last pitch, you don't care to lead anything, and there are no swing hazards for the climber...it would be a good idea to lower into the climb. Hope I answered your question. |
Pavel Burov wrote: Use the Munter hitch if you want to trash your rope. They twist the living hell out of them, sometimes to the point that it never straightens out. I use a munter if I have no other means of lowering or rappeling., |
frank minunni wrote: Nope. Munter hitch does not twist or kink ropes. Those having no idea how to use Munter hitch kink and twist ropes. |
rockhard wrote: Because Munter hitch is safer (provides full feedback and control). |
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If you do it right it's really not much different than lowering someone on toprope. |
Serge Smirnov wrote:
Since this is a multi-pitch climb there are many reason why the person being lowered might have to come back up. They must know how to ascend a rope and have the gear with them to do so. The belayer could rig a pulley system, but it is inefficient, slow, and really only good for very short sections. |
