El Cap Rockfall

Hobo Greg wrote:

Every time you climb, it is never the same climb. Both philosophically and quite literally.

Next time I'm in Jtree, I'm gonna start asking around for Philosopher Greg.

caesar.salad wrote:

It changed the waterfall route. Pete from Super Taco got the last ascent. Half dome had a major rockfall a year ago. You just get some new pitches. 

It will all depend on the damage. According to the Taco, most of the lower parts of "Chinese Water Torture" are gone as is almost the entire "Get Whacked" route. Despite claims to the contrary, most of the "Waterfall Route" appears to be largely intact. "Pressure Cooker" is probably gone as well. Also, the approach to the popular East Buttress route goes directly through the impact zone.

Big B wrote:

Well there ya go.....

150'w x 400'h x+/-26' thick

30,500 tons

not even close to the biggest recorded in the park(didn't even make top25)

wow, the report I read said 130' x 65' x 10' , and I used a standard 2700kg/m^3 for density for my calculation.  I guess that was for the smaller rockfall the day before?

Marc801 C wrote:

Also, the approach to the popular East Buttress route goes directly through the impact zone.

Well, before the most recent rockfall,  the approach involved a steep hike up a talus+boulder field... I guess people will appreciate now where it all came from!

Marc801 C wrote:

It will all depend on the damage. According to the Taco, most of the lower parts of "Chinese Water Torture" are gone as is almost the entire "Get Whacked" route. Despite claims to the contrary, most of the "Waterfall Route" appears to be largely intact. "Pressure Cooker" is probably gone as well. Also, the approach to the popular East Buttress route goes directly through the impact zone.

No, pitches 7 through 11 fell off and onto pitches 1-7. At least 70 percent of the waterfall route is destroyed. It is not mostly in-tact

Ryan Sheridan wrote:

No, pitches 7 through 11 fell off and onto pitches 1-7. At least 70 percent of the waterfall route is destroyed. It is not mostly in-tact

I would take this^^ word for it..... seeing as it was front row seats..... thanks Ryan for all the cool pictures you got of the rockfall...glad u guys got off safe.

So who wants to go out next week and try to get an FA? Can name it Rockfall route.

TBlom wrote:

wow, the report I read said 130' x 65' x 10' , and I used a standard 2700kg/m^3 for density for my calculation.  I guess that was for the smaller rockfall the day before?

My numbers came from G Stock(nps)..... and yes they're for the second days(bigger) rockfall

ViperScale wrote:

So who wants to go out next week and try to get an FA? Can name it Rockfall route.

Fuck that. If I get an FA on El Cap I'm naming it something insane like Floppy Donkey Cockring.

caesar.salad wrote:

Fuck that. If I get an FA on El Cap I'm naming it something insane like Floppy Donkey Cockring.

Taken.

:P

Ryan Sheridan wrote:

No, pitches 7 through 11 fell off and onto pitches 1-7. At least 70 percent of the waterfall route is destroyed. It is not mostly in-tact

Thanks for the clarification. I had my doubts about the Taco statement that it was mostly still there.

Jeremy Justus wrote:

So here is a question, might be a stupid one but as an aspiring big wall climber who dreams of El Cap this thought occurred to me.  This is the first major rock fall on an iconic big wall that has happened since I have gotten into climbing (at least that I am aware of), and while apparently its not even close to the biggest falls that have occurred it obviously altered the face and I'm assuming at least one of the routes up the wall?  I'm wondering if it is enough of a change, or how much would need to change, for it to be considered a new route with the first ascent being ripe for the taking? I'm sure it's not too different that you would have to give some credit to the original climber, but it's definitely not the same climb. I imagine some people who are far better climbers than me would be chomping at the bit to get the FA on a new line on El Cap, I sure would if I was quite a few more years/grades ahead in my climbing.

also, who got the last ascent??

Never let a good tragedy go to waste???...

caesar.salad wrote:

You just get some new pitches. 

In case anyone has not seen the pics by now, that second fall on Thursday was about 400' high and 150' wide - and all that obliterated whatever it hit, so it's going to be a lot more than just some new pitches.

Marc801 C wrote:

In case anyone has not seen the pics by now, that second fall on Thursday was about 400' high and 150' wide - and all that obliterated whatever it hit, so it's going to be a lot more than just some new pitches.

That talus field suddenly got a LOT bigger. 

The one twisted up 'interview' I read, had routes listed all over, so I'm still not sure what routes were affected, torn out, ruined.   Maybe more details will come from those with more recent experience on this wall. (Mine goes back too many decades and new routes exist that are not on my El Cap poster map circa 1996 printing).

https://mobile.twitter.com/Phillipbay/status/913561143666339840

From high cathedral spire

There were a number of routes over that way. Many had seen only a hand-full of ascents due to their A4-ish nature as well as rock quality (it was loose over there).    

Small fall from above 

https://youtu.be/oPOTlCB_y30

The most likely time for a rock fall is shortly following another rock fall.  This is especially the case with partial exfoliation leaving overhanging rock above.....

Sure there is great new route opportunities, but at what risk.