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James Flowers
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Sep 20, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Sep 2015
· Points: 0
I'm heading out to Red Rocks in October for a week and really hoping to do a lot of multi-pitch climbs. I've done a lot of single pitch rappel and did a multi-pitch last spring when I was there and we walked off. My question is when rapping off a multi-pitch, what do you do if there's no rap rings at the belay station? I've read a little about bringing webbing and some bail rings, maybe using a tree or some other natural feature and pulling the rope after the rap, but in general, are there usually rings at popular multi-pitch routes? All the videos I've seen about rappel techniques already start with a fixed anchor/chains/rings.
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Anonymous
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Sep 20, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined unknown
· Points: 0
Generally you don't rappel down if there isn't something at the next point to keep going with or you can walk off.
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eli poss
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Sep 20, 2017
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Durango, CO
· Joined May 2014
· Points: 525
I would bring a few rap rings or quicklinks just in case, but most rap stations are going to be bolts with quicklinks, chains, or rings or natural pro with webbing and rings. Unless some jackass has stolen the hardware, the only thing you should have to replace would be webbing or cord that has gotten sun bleached or eaten by rodents. Also, a lot of the climbs at Red Rocks have a walk off descent and some have the option of rapping or walking off. Something you want to look into for walk offs is where the walk off ends. I can think of a few climbs in Red Rocks that have a walk off that puts you nowhere near the base of the climb so you have to bring everything with you on the climb.
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Serge S
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Sep 20, 2017
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Seattle, WA
· Joined Oct 2015
· Points: 683
Yes, they have rings (or quicklinks). On popular multipitch routes at RR, the apparent need to add something to the existing rap anchor is usually a sign you are off the intended rappel route.
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FrankPS
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Sep 20, 2017
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Atascadero, CA
· Joined Nov 2009
· Points: 276
The guidebooks will generally tell you the method of descent. Some are walk-offs, some rappel the route, some rappel another route. The ones you rappel will have rings.
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Nick Goldsmith
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Sep 20, 2017
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NEK
· Joined Aug 2009
· Points: 470
On any of the populer multi pitch climbs at RR all the rapels will be set up for you unless the route is typicaly a walk off. read the guide book and know what your options of getting down are. the walk offs are not always super obvious. A good study of the book might help you not get sucked into the wrong path at the top of the climb. No need for rap rings or quick links unless you are doing first ascents or anchor replacement. Always climb with a few biners that you won't mind leaveing and a half roll of sport tape. the tape is your first aid kit as well as your maGiver kit for fixing stuff. tape the gate of your leaver biner shut when doing single biner rapels.
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Smokestack Lightning
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Sep 20, 2017
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Arizona
· Joined Jan 2011
· Points: 1,535
Echoing what others have said: most multipitch routes in Red Rock, and in general, that have rappel descents are equipped with either bolted stations or webbing/cord on trees/natural features. Routes that have walk off descents won't necessarily be equipped for rappel descents. If you have to bail on a route that has a walk off descent, then plan on building your own rap anchors on the way down and leaving gear. This obviously isn't the ideal scenario. Even when climbing a route with a rap descent, you should be prepared to replace/reinforce existing webbing/cord anchors on trees/natural features. Bring a small knife, some webbing/cord, and a rap ring or biner to leave.
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James Flowers
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Sep 20, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Sep 2015
· Points: 0
Thanks y'all for your responses. It what I was wondering but glad to have it confirmed
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S. Neoh
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Sep 20, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2009
· Points: 35
When we prepared ourselves for popular multi-pitch climbs at RR, we did the following - 1. read up on each route and make sure we are certain whether it is a rap from the top or a walk-off, 2a. if it is a rap, then know exactly where to rap from at the top of the route; some rap from the last anchor while others may rap from a separate anchor a short distance away, 2b. if it is a walk-off, make a print out of the descent (chairns, directions, etc) to bring along on the climb, 3. either lead on double 60m (or a single 60 and a 60m static line) or a single 70m. We prefer the double. More options, 4. bring a couple of rap rings, a couple of bail biners, and extra slings which can be left behind if necessary, 5. pay attention on the way up to note how we can descend the route (anchor to anchor) if we have to retreat mid-route. This is where double 60's give you the extra confidence that you are likely to be able to retreat the way you went up. Meandering route or route that goes over multiple overlaps or overhangs can make a "straight" retreat non trivial. Have fun. As I like to say, no first trip to RR is complete without at least a little epic. We certainly had our share when we went. :)
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James Flowers
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Sep 21, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Sep 2015
· Points: 0
Just to be clear, this all pertains to both sport and trad multi-pitch routes?
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FrankPS
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Sep 21, 2017
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Atascadero, CA
· Joined Nov 2009
· Points: 276
James Flowers wrote:Just to be clear, this all pertains to both sport and trad multi-pitch routes? Yes.
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Hamish Hamish
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Sep 21, 2017
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Fredericksburg, VA
· Joined May 2017
· Points: 15
A more general pointer for those new to multipitch raps, and apologies if this is obvious to you, but always beware of those who may be climbing under you. This goes for both throwing/pulling the rope and releasing rocks while on rappel - either by kicking or due to rope interaction. I'm not sure how useful this is for RR - some areas have rappel stations offline from the routes, others just use the route anchors. Either way, it's good practice to be mindful. Apologies if this is off-topic. cheers, Hamish
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Greg D
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Sep 21, 2017
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Here
· Joined Apr 2006
· Points: 908
Just fyi, stuck ropes when pulling after the rap seem to be a little more common at RR due to the high friction, knobs, flakes, cracks. Hopefully, you have an appropriate rope (not some skinny tag) and enough rope to lead back up to free the rope. If you don't have enough rope, you may need to use the inch worm technique.
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Hamish Hamish
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Sep 21, 2017
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Fredericksburg, VA
· Joined May 2017
· Points: 15
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IcePick
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Sep 21, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jun 2017
· Points: 100
Greg D wrote:Just fyi, stuck ropes when pulling after the rap seem to be a little more common at RR due to the high friction, knobs, flakes, cracks. Hopefully, you have an appropriate rope (not some skinny tag) and enough rope to lead back up to free the rope. If you don't have enough rope, you may need to use the inch worm technique. Inch worm technique?
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Greg D
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Sep 21, 2017
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Here
· Joined Apr 2006
· Points: 908
If you only have, say 50 feet of rope, but the rope is stuck much further up, 50 feet won't get you there. So, assuming the rappel route can be climbed (free or aid): Belayer anchors in at rope end. Leader ties in as far "up" the rope as possible. Leader leads up. Now a loop is forming on stuck side of the rope. Before leader runs out of rope and is able to put in solid gear and/or super solid stance, "leader anchors in direct", leader ties in to other side of the loop that has formed "up" the stuck rope. Unties first tie in. Belayer takes in slack. Now, there is lots more rope to continue leading up. Repeat as necessary. You could put a friction hitch on the stuck rope as a backup. Personally, I would never trust my life to a stuck rope exclusively. Edit: added the "anchor in direct" step.
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James Flowers
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Sep 21, 2017
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Sep 2015
· Points: 0
One other thing I've seen is rapping off of chains. In the event that another party is climbing the same route that you're rapping, etiquette suggests that you rap off the lowest rings. Is that correct? Any other thoughts on rap management when encountering an ascending party?
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Greg D
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Sep 21, 2017
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Here
· Joined Apr 2006
· Points: 908
^^^^ Yes. Not really an etiquette thing. The lowest rings/links make for the best rappel and easiest rope pull, least twisting, etc.
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eli poss
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Sep 21, 2017
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Durango, CO
· Joined May 2014
· Points: 525
If you know there is another party climbing the route you want to rap you should rap with your rope coiled in saddle bags. That way you don't have to throw it and potentially hit the party with your ropes.
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FrankPS
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Sep 21, 2017
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Atascadero, CA
· Joined Nov 2009
· Points: 276
James Flowers wrote:One other thing I've seen is rapping off of chains. In the event that another party is climbing the same route that you're rapping, etiquette suggests that you rap off the lowest rings. Is that correct? Any other thoughts on rap management when encountering an ascending party? If you are rappeling a route someone is climbing, "saddlebag" your rope(s) so you don't throw it on top of the leader. Edit: Eli beat me to it!
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PaulMudd
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Sep 21, 2017
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Las Vegas, NV
· Joined Dec 2014
· Points: 5
Most importantly when pulling your rope after a rappel at RR, you need to whip the sh*t our of your rope so it doesn't get stuck. A lot of routes at RR love to eat ropes, don't ask me how i know.
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