Attn New Climbers - What Pros Want You To Know

1. Lead belay

2. Clean gear

3. Ascend a weighted rope with prussiks

It's tough to pick just three, but with these you can start following routes and learn more as you go. 

Thank you all for your input, Keep em coming, I see some common subjects listed that keeps us all on the same page.

As I read this I'm thinking the intermediate climbers as well could provide a valuable source of feedback as to what they want or wish to be taught but that can be a separate thread.

1. Flake the rope when we first get to the base of a climb so I can get everything else ready. 

2. Don't step on my rope. No really don't step on my fucking rope!

3. Good belay technique.

Joseph Epley wrote:

Ah okay. When I saw you use the term "auto locking" I thought you meant a device that locks up automatically when when the rope is loaded. Grigris often do this, but they won't always, and should not be trusted as a replacement for proper belay technique. That's the distinction I wanted to clarify with "auto locking" vs "assisted breaking". 

Totally agree about proper belay technique and always keeping the belay hand on the brake strand of rope. 

1. Never yell at Tahquitz.

That's pretty much it.

ToDoubleD Whitney wrote:

2. Don't step on my rope. No really don't step on my fucking rope!

Don´t dump your pack, jacket, rope and all the rest of the junk you´ve dragged up to the crag in the middle of the path along the bottom, I WILL step on it!

1 - How to belay (how the device works, not just how to mindlessly do the correct hand motions)

2 - Safety Checks (including being clear on rappel vs lower at the top before leaving the ground.  If multi-pitch, system of tugs if you can't hear eachother)

3 - Knot in the end of the rope 

Jim Titt wrote:

Don´t dump your pack, jacket, rope and all the rest of the junk you´ve dragged up to the crag in the middle of the path along the bottom, I WILL step on it!

Haha! That would be #4. Don't bring so much stuff and keep it organized. 

1. Safety.

2. Courtesy.

3. Technique.

Basic belayer/climber communication. Simple, 1-2 word requests & responses. 

No need to yell full conversations back and forth explaining what your doing.. 

1. Your partner's life is in your hands. You must totally invest in this and from day one commit to the steps necessary to prevent some of the common errors of omission/comission or tragedy is likely in time. Double check harnesses, knots and use sound belay technique at all times. As a newbie belayer you have to understand the situation and be able to participate in keeping you both safe as soon as possible. Learning clear communication is essential.

2. Trad leading at the beginning is about being in control of the situation as best you can at all times. You either are getting bomber gear and/or climbing well within your limit, or you are backing the fuck off. Sketchy beginners = VERBOTEN.

3. Planning and the extra effort of an early start is the key to safety. Know your objective and the walk off before you leave the ground. Better an early start then beers in camp than a rappelling epic in the afternoon storm or an accident due to rushing before dark. Very rare for the early party to have an epic...there is a lesson there.

1. How to belay. (I personally think one should start on an ATC. It's a more simple device and drives home the importance of the brake line. But whatever.)

2. How to clean an anchor.

3. LNT and crag etiquette.

1. LNT!!!! *this one goes neglected way too much, IMHO

2. Basic knots & fundamentals of the "closed system" 

3. Belay safety, belay safety, and belay safety. 

1. Focus- always be aware of what's going on around You!

2. Do a pre-climb checklist.

3. Good technique.

Belaying. It's as much a science as an art.

1. Use a kernmantle rope of at least 50 meters.

2. Always double knot your swami belt.

3. Hexentrics are incredibly versatile. 

T G wrote:

35 responses so far and only one mentions communication. Top of my list by a long shot.

2 actually. I touched on the subject with my #1 and only suggestion.

caesar.salad wrote:

1. Use a kernmantle rope of at least 50 meters.

2. Always double knot your swami belt.

3. Hexentrics are incredibly versatile. 

No please don't

T G wrote:

35 responses so far and only one mentions communication. Top of my list by a long shot.

And others may consider communication to be an inherent part of both safety and courtesy.