The definition of insanity on Handcracker Direct.
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I get the first person getting a #3 stuck. And maybe even the second person. But damn, if there are two, or hell, even three #3's stuck within a couple of feet of where you're about to place one, then maybe, like, don't? Also, I didn't post this to start strife, arguments or debate on fixed gear/inexperienced trad leaders, or whatever other heavy stuff you might want to discuss about the state of climbing (admittedly, the fact I felt like I needed to write this caveat means I'm probably asking for trouble), instead, let's just laugh at a humorously surreal sight to behold. |
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Jake Jones wrote: My partner is a bit of a cam cleaning wizard in my opinion, and he followed the pitch and stopped to work on it for a few minutes to little avail. Maybe a real King Arthur can pull this cam from the stone though... |
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LOL it's some sort of group think... I experienced it there too actually.. I saw all the 3s and instinctively reach for a 3 to place. As soon as put it to the crack though I saw that it was really not the right size at all. |
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nathanael wrote: The mind does crazy intering stuff some times for sure! |
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The comments say there were previously 5 stuck #3's |
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Jake Jones wrote: I also remember when I first told someone "I remember what it was like when I had my first beer". I know how to clean a cam, my partner is even better, Jim Turner had a good call out to the route page. Gregor Man worked on those #3's with a hammer and a funkness. and that dude IS the King Arther of Eldo if there ever was one |
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Jake Jones wrote: On reading my comment, I realize it seemed salty. I actually just watched Step Brothers again and was trying to incorporate that quote into something. But yeah, I get what you're thinking, but this is a top 10 route traffic-wise in Boulder's premier climbing area. If it's still there it's a hack-saw sorta thing |
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Maybe that crack could use a little metal sign saying "Don't place #3s" |
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Has anybody tried bringing a full nalgeen of water up there and dumping it on the cams? Seems to do the trick for many anytime I fix a cam, although I've only tried it in sandstone |
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John Wilder wrote: Stuck rope is totally understandable at Red Rock, but this is unreal! Either those guys don't know how to place gear or the ultralight are more prone to walking (which I doubt?). I also can't imagine someone bringing quadruple 0.4 up that route so maybe it's the latter? I see a more people out there these days who are just getting into trad and already own a double rack of shiny ultralights, hard to see how it's worth the cost, and it's extra shitty when you lose a piece. |
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This thread is making my nut tool itch |
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Rob T wrote: Absolutely. |
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Haha that's funny this route is a Gumby tractor beam. |
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Shelton Hatfield wrote: I bet Terrasil would take care of both the itch and the stuck cams. 2, 2, 2 treatments in one! btw, i think it was first pitch of Bears Reach that a couple of years ago had 2 #6's and 7 (yes SEVEN) link cams within 40 feet of each other. Boy did i spend a wasted hour+ on that haul. And i carry a hammer for that sh*t! |
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I've got a pretty light sawsall with a 3 batteries. Maybe you can't booty the cam but you can do a little public service cleaning. |
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highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion wrote: It's needed honestly, those #3's are interfering with the climb. |





