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The definition of insanity on Handcracker Direct.

Original Post
The Blueprint Part Dank · · FEMA Region VIII · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 460

I get the first person getting a #3 stuck. And maybe even the second person. But damn, if there are two, or hell, even three #3's stuck within a couple of feet of where you're about to place one, then maybe, like, don't?

Also, I didn't post this to start strife, arguments or debate on fixed gear/inexperienced trad leaders, or whatever other heavy stuff you might want to discuss about the state of climbing (admittedly, the fact I felt like I needed to write this caveat means I'm probably asking for trouble), instead, let's just laugh at a humorously surreal sight to behold.

The Blueprint Part Dank · · FEMA Region VIII · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 460
Jake Jones wrote:

My partner is a bit of a cam cleaning wizard in my opinion, and he followed the pitch and stopped to work on it for a few minutes to little avail. Maybe a real King Arthur can pull this cam from the stone though...

nathanael · · San Diego · Joined May 2011 · Points: 525

LOL it's some sort of group think... I experienced it there too actually.. I saw all the 3s and instinctively reach for a 3 to place. As soon as put it to the crack though I saw that it was really not the right size at all.

The Blueprint Part Dank · · FEMA Region VIII · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 460
nathanael wrote:

LOL it's some sort of group think... I experienced it there too actually.. I saw all the 3s and instinctively reach for a 3 to place. As soon as put it to the crack though I saw that it was really not the right size at all.

The mind does crazy intering stuff some times for sure!

Jim T · · Colorado · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 469

The comments say there were previously 5 stuck #3's
https://www.mountainproject.com/v/handcracker-direct/105749599

The Blueprint Part Dank · · FEMA Region VIII · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 460
Jake Jones wrote:

Most of the time, all it takes is one lobe that moves and you can eventually work it loose.  However, having the patience to sit there and fiddle with it for a long time usually goes out the window after a while.  Especially if they're really back in there.

I also remember when I first told someone 

"I remember what it was like when I had my first beer".  

I know how to clean a cam, my partner is even better, Jim Turner had a good call out to the route page. Gregor Man worked on those #3's with a hammer and a funkness. and that dude IS the King Arther of Eldo if there ever was one

The Blueprint Part Dank · · FEMA Region VIII · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 460
Jake Jones wrote:

Alrighty then.  Didn't mean to suggest you don't know how to clean, or that your partner doesn't.  It's just so surreal, as you mentioned, that it's hard to imagine that many lodged next to each other.  If I offended you, I apologize.

On reading my comment, I realize it seemed salty. I actually just watched Step Brothers again and was trying to incorporate that quote into something. But yeah, I get what you're thinking, but this is a top 10 route traffic-wise in Boulder's premier climbing area. If it's still there it's a hack-saw sorta thing

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,516

Maybe that crack could use a little metal sign saying "Don't place #3s"

eli poss · · Durango, CO · Joined May 2014 · Points: 525

Has anybody tried bringing a full nalgeen of water up there and dumping it on the cams? Seems to do the trick for many anytime I fix a cam, although I've only tried it in sandstone

Johnny Y · · California · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 2,589
John Wilder wrote:

Earlier this summer, I saw 4 brand new Ultralight 0.4 C4s within 5 feet of each other on Triassic Sands in Red Rock. I dug at a couple, but they were buried pretty deep. I told a buddy who is pretty experienced at getting cams out, and he only managed to get one- so there are still 3 left out there. I'm definitely at a loss for this type of gear stacking up in a crack. 

Stuck rope is totally understandable at Red Rock, but this is unreal! Either those guys don't know how to place gear or the ultralight are more prone to walking (which I doubt?). I also can't imagine someone bringing quadruple 0.4 up that route so maybe it's the latter? I see a more people out there these days who are just getting into trad and already own a double rack of shiny ultralights, hard to see how it's worth the cost, and it's extra shitty when you lose a piece. 

Shelton Hatfield · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 650

This thread is making my nut tool itch

Sean Peter · · IL · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 105
Rob T wrote:

So, another possibly obvious, question; of the top 3 clustered together, why didn't the second 2 just clip the fixed piece and move on?

Absolutely.

ANGUS WIESSNER · · Denver Colorado · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,897

Haha that's funny this route is a Gumby tractor beam.

Muscrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,625
Shelton Hatfield wrote:

This thread is making my nut tool itch

I bet Terrasil would take care of both the itch and the stuck cams. 

2, 2, 2 treatments in one!

btw, i think it was first pitch of Bears Reach that a couple of years ago had 2 #6's and 7 (yes SEVEN) link cams within 40 feet of each other. Boy did i spend a wasted hour+ on that haul. And i carry a hammer for that sh*t!

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35

I've got a pretty light sawsall with a 3 batteries. Maybe you can't booty the cam but you can do a little public service cleaning.

The Blueprint Part Dank · · FEMA Region VIII · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 460
highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion wrote:

I've got a pretty light sawsall with a 3 batteries. Maybe you can't booty the cam but you can do a little public service cleaning.

It's needed honestly, those #3's are interfering with the climb. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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