New trad climber...problems.

Are you climbing on quartzite in the Southeast? In particular, are you climbing in the Linville gorge? If so, that area is hard to place bomber stoppers. Many of the people who commented probably haven't been there, or experienced the difficulties placing in that unique type of rock. 

Drew Sylvester wrote:

Likewise for Devil's Lake in Wisconsin. Slippery as snot on a glass doorknob.

Ha!  Ha!  I always used to say "slippery as snot on a doorknob," but I can see how a glass doorknob would make the snot even more slippier.

Drew Sylvester wrote:

Likewise for Devil's Lake in Wisconsin. Slippery as snot on a glass doorknob.

False.  Stoppers are bomber at the Lake and are easier to get stuck than to pop out.  I have found the problem to be much more pronounced on softer rock like sandstone, which it looks like he is climbing on in the picture.  I believe that nuts set by deforming the softer metal, which is why stoppers will paradoxically stick like glue even though our hands and shoes do not.

Short roping is not/should not be causing this.  As others pointed out, all of your pro will be loaded in that way during a fall, so putting more slack in the system definitely isn't going to make you any safer. Your belayer looks like he/she is standing a bit too far back, but sometimes that's unavoidable given ground conditions.  Still, I would say that (and the nature of the rock) would be the best explanation for why that piece is fully extended.

How low was that piece?  Assuming the belayer snapped that photo (let's think about that one for a second...), that piece looks barely above 10 feet, and extended it is super close to him.  You should probably realize that it would do very little to protect a fall, and it also means the belayer would have to be even closer (impossibly close even) to avoid loading it.

You people are still placing nuts?!?!! Nuts are like, sooo 1985 man.

My favorite part of this thread is where the OP makes a genuine effort to engage Aleks; the ensuing exchange is priceless and not something to be read while drinking unless one wants to risk spitting said spirits out.

Aleks is in top form on this thread; coining "wang lord" is a new high.

Tradiban wrote:

You people are still placing nuts?!?!! Nuts are like, sooo 1985 man.

You're nuts!

And to the OP. Your placements are bad, make better placements and use runners. Problems solved.

I want to know where Aleks' profile picture comes from.

Slap Happy 

Wanging It

Wang Slapping

Slapping the Wang

Slap of Wangs

Wang...Slap

On a Wang and a Prayer

Wang of a Dove

Somewhere in there is a route name...

Healyje wrote:

Slap Happy 

Wanging It

Wang Slapping

Slapping the Wang

Slap of Wangs

Wang...Slap

On a Wang and a Prayer

Wang of a Dove

Somewhere in there is a route name...

And don't forget "Wang Dang Doodle," ( from that somewhat forgettable movie, Chatterbox.)

Wong Dong Doodle

You stand before Aleks of House Zebastian, First of His Name, Wang-Born, the Un-Slapped, Rightful Wang-Lord of the Mountain Project, Eater of Fish-Heads, Displayer of Neck-Meat, Executioner of Bold Flash, and the Slapper of Wangs... I presume you have come to bend the knee?

At Joshua Tree it would be Wang Dang Poodle

You could climb it with your bro partner and be the Two Wang Clan

Andrew Krajnik wrote:

I presume you have come to have your wang slapped?

Fixed that for you...

Years ago I used BD curved stoppers but frequently found that they would rotate up as I climbed past, even if they had been 'set'.   I eventually switched to Metolius, which curve along the vertical axis.  This is a much better design, with no tendency to rotate out of the placement.  However, you have to be careful not to set them too hard.  They have a greater tendency to get stuck.

climbing friend,

ho ho ho!

ha ha!

myah!

For the record, my wife thinks this is the funniest thread I've ever shown her on MP. Well done, friends. 

there are several problems with relying on 'setting' stoppers.  first, obviously they are going to be harder to get out.  second, just because you set them doesn't mean they won't pull out in a fall.  sure, they might stay in while you are climbing, but that doesn't guarantee that a fall isn't going to rip them out.  i am a big non-fan of setting stoppers unless absolutely necessary - i think it causes people to overestimate the actual quality of their placements (plus they are hard to get out).

several things that might help.  first, looking for placements where you can 'drop them' into a keyed-in constriction.  second, like healyj and others have described, use before and after placements that can help keep the rope from running so far out from the piece in question (keep rope drag in mind though).  another option that takes a little work, sometimes you can place another piece below it that is basically 'upside down' and set such that it can react against upwards forces - then you clove hitch the biner of this piece to the biner that is clipped directly to the piece in question, nice and snug.  then, use a separate draw/runner for the piece in question in the normal fashion.  you can also do all of this with one longer sling.  the lower piece will keep the upper piece from lifting.

Extend your slings even more. The first piece should be multi-directional to help prevent the zipper effect. Even if your belayer is not short roping you, on a fall, the rope would pull out like in the picture, zipper effect.