The reality is that I'm too...

Lofoten, Norway. Short approaches, awesome granite, moderate grades.

Not cheap, though.

Darren in Vegas wrote:

Sounds like you are east coast? Try Ship Rock and Moore's Wall in NC.  Lots of great easier trad offerings.  I don't remember the approaches, but I don't think they are too bad.

The approach isn't strenuous or long for Moore's, but it is pretty bush-whacky being criss-crossed by a zillion bouldering paths and you will spend some time lost in the woods the first time or six you do it. Not really a destination since you can climb all of the worthwhile 5.7+ and under multi-pitch routes in a couple days. Rock is awesome, views are amazing - but it's not really a destination with super long moderates like Red Rock is.

Horseshoe canyon is short single pitch bolted climbs with a handful of trad lines.  

I'd rather make $200k a year than climb 5.12. 

Ray Pinpillage wrote:

I'd rather make $200k a year than climb 5.12. 

I'd rather have 90% of both.

It's going to be pretty hard to beat the Gunks.  Oddly, 5.7 isn't a very good grade at the Gunks (Limelight, Han's Puss, and CCK in the Trapps and Te Dum in the Near Trapps being notable exceptions ), but under that grade are some of the best easy routes in the country, and if you care to bump up to 5.8 it gets fabulous again.

rgold wrote:

It's going to be pretty hard to beat the Gunks.  Oddly, 5.7 isn't a very good grade at the Gunks (Limelight, Han's Puss, and CCK in the Trapps and Te Dum in the Near Trapps being notable exceptions ), but under that grade are some of the best easy routes in the country, and if you care to bump up to 5.8 it gets fabulous again.

What about Yellow Ridge, strictlys, thin slabs, classic, Oscar and Charlie, gorilla my dreams, something interesting, lichen 40 winks, bombs away dream baby, and bloody Mary? I think you can have a good deal of fun at 5.7 (and I left the single pitch 7s out) 

5.7 is a great gunks grade... High e, shockleys, bloody bush, wrist, Madame G's, frog's head hahaha

I'll also second Table Mountain in Cape Town (I spent about 3 days climbing there this spring) as a great choice, too.   Sadly, though, not NA.

And, I know you specified trad multi-pitch, but El Potrero Chico can give you lots of sport multi-pitch in your range with short approaches, and nice views.  If you want a break from plugging gear.

Ray Pinpillage wrote:

I'd rather make $200k a year than climb 5.12. 

I'd rather make more than $200k a year and climb harder than 5.12. 

Echoing others: Gunks is awesome for this, but to add a (potentially silly) nit-pick, a lot of the stuff there is more in the 1-pitch range, and almost anything could be done as 1 pitch with a 70m rope. The cliff is usually shorter than you think it is.

Lover's leap is _perfect_, although a week's trip (weekend for some) is enough to run out of moderates < 5.9

To piggyback off this thread, if you take the OP's criteria and bump it up to 10+ pitches, G-rated, western US, and GOOD rock of any type, does the MP hive mind have any suggestions? Approach is a non-issue. Vegas is the obvious choice, but I'm looking for other stuff I may not have thought of.

CWood wrote:

Echoing others: Gunks is awesome for this, but to add a (potentially silly) nit-pick, a lot of the stuff there is more in the 1-pitch range, and almost anything could be done as 1 pitch with a 70m rope. The cliff is usually shorter than you think it is.

Lover's leap is _perfect_, although a week's trip (weekend for some) is enough to run out of moderates < 5.9

To piggyback off this thread, if you take the OP's criteria and bump it up to 10+ pitches, G-rated, western US, and GOOD rock of any type, does the MP hive mind have any suggestions? Approach is a non-issue. Vegas is the obvious choice, but I'm looking for other stuff I may not have thought of.

Regular Route on Slick Rock in Idaho seems like a good fit. Plenty of nice hotels nearby.

East Face or East Buttress of Whitney. The Days Inn has a pool for lounging after.

Maybe West Ridge on Mt. Conness in Yosemite (you said approach is a non-issue), but's a ridge, so it won't make the g-rating for the whole thing and it's not sustained (if that matters). If you want luxury accommodations, there are some fancy places up in Yosemite West for rent.

Horseshoe Canyon is so very fun but no multipitch at all, and mostly sport.  I'll put in another vote for City of Rocks; great trad lines at 5.8 and under, and a few multipitch bolted routes as a bonus.

Quench wrote:

old, too tired, too worn down and have too many other interests to ever be, at best, any better than a 5.9 climber.  I'm an honest to gawd 3 pitch 5.7+ climber.  And I'm perfectly content with that.  

I only wish I will someday get to the point in my life where I can say this.  It will mean I'm 1. Still alive, and 2. Still climbing.  And keep in mind that to a non-climber 5.7 trad looks like a freaking miracle.  Like you may as well be Alex Honnold himself for all they know.  Kudos to you!

Gavin Towey wrote:

I only wish I will someday get to the point in my life where I can say this.  It will mean I'm 1. Still alive, and 2. Still climbing.  And keep in mind that to a non-climber 5.7 trad looks like a freaking miracle.  Like you may as well be Alex Honnold himself for all they know.  Kudos to you!

#perspective

RKM wrote:

There are several of us 'older guys' that have either built or bought homes/cabins in Almo, Idaho area.  Most retired, and I am in the process of soon to be retired.  Each with their own sort of motivation and/or specialty in climbing.  Some are putting up sport routes for the moderate user and enjoy that total experience of creation.  Some still climb pretty hard and actually officially guide from there, some just climb at their ability depending on the day and attitude.  Some, like me, just climb to climb (as in the movement and moving over stone) and prefer mileage over difficulty at this stage of life. 

I'd love to buy a piece of property up there or an existing cabin but I can't find anything during a week-long real estate search. Any tips?

almo, ID is heaven in my opinion. I've literally spent months of my life running up those moderate trad and sport multi pitch climbs, soaking in the hot springs, and enjoying the sunsets in a pretty damn tranquil setting. Considering my age, I expect to spend many more moons doing it too. See y'all there!

Gavin Towey wrote:

I only wish I will someday get to the point in my life where I can say this.  It will mean I'm 1. Still alive, and 2. Still climbing.  And keep in mind that to a non-climber 5.7 trad looks like a freaking miracle.  Like you may as well be Alex Honnold himself for all they know.  Kudos to you!

Ha!  Well, thanks, I think.  :D 

I'll take the kudos, but not because I'm 1. still alive or 2. still climbing, or that I might possibly be miraculous.  :D  

Quench wrote:

I know there have to be tons of climbers like me out there.  We get lumped in with beginners - which is unfortunate.  We're kind of a lost demographic.

Yeah, it's particularly unfortunate if you are the "beginner" who fits the demographic.

Well, I still have to work. Forever. Got nada for resources. Can't climb worth beans.

Not tired ALL the time.

Guess that just leaves old.

:-( 

OLH

CWood wrote:

Echoing others: Gunks is awesome for this, but to add a (potentially silly) nit-pick, a lot of the stuff there is more in the 1-pitch range, and almost anything could be done as 1 pitch with a 70m rope. The cliff is usually shorter than you think it is.

Lover's leap is _perfect_, although a week's trip (weekend for some) is enough to run out of moderates < 5.9

To piggyback off this thread, if you take the OP's criteria and bump it up to 10+ pitches, G-rated, western US, and GOOD rock of any type, does the MP hive mind have any suggestions? Approach is a non-issue. Vegas is the obvious choice, but I'm looking for other stuff I may not have thought of.

I'm in a similar demographic and ability level to the OP. My climbing buddy and I are coming out for a trip of a lifetime, 3 weeks in northern California. We plan to hit up 30 or so routes, mostly classics, all 5.6-5.8, starting Lovers Leap, then Tuolumne, then the Valley (mostly to gawk at the big rocks, but Snake Dike and Royal Arches are on the list. Lovers Leap looks awesome for steep juggy easy stuff, lots and lots of super stuff in TM, some long multi-pitch easy peaks (Tenaya, Cathedral, Matthes, Conness) and a bunch of slabby goodness on domes. Camping in a campervan, but would be easy to upgrade to proper accommodation if you wanted more luxury. 

Red Rock - mmmm - have been twice already, the best climbing destination I've ever been to.