Let's talk Texas.

Hello all! I come to the forum with two questions!

1. Where is the best climbing located near the Dallas area? I'm originally from Golden, Colorado and I've grown up climbing, but an internship came along that I'm going to be taking for the summer and I'm concerned I'm not going to be able to climb! Any locations are appreciated!
2. The internship I mentioned above is a pastoral internship. With that, I'm looking for a climbing partner who is Christian! Now by no means am I strictly sticking to that, it's just something that is love to have. If there really isn't someone who falls under that criteria, I don't mind, I'd still love to climb with whoever comes around  

Y'all got access fund in Texas?

your best bet is either heading up to the Wichita Wildlife Refuge in Lawton, Oklahoma (trad)  or Reimers Ranch down in Austin, Tx.   There's nothing much other than hitting up the gyms. Summers are pretty brutal as far as being outside. Reimers is pretty sweet because its right off the river so you can climb in the morning until the sun gets too much then just pop open a beer and chill out the water.

No climbing in the Dallas area. I had a summer internship there in the past and did 0 climbing that summer. There just isn't any rock down there. MP shows that Mineral springs statepark is the closest with 32 routes. 

There's actually a fair amount of rock within an hour of Dallas, but none is super great; mostly bouldering.  As folks have said, the Wichitas and Enchanted Rock are both 3-4 hours away, and are the best trad.  Lots of short sport in Austin.  You should not have  problem finding Christian partners, either.  Head to a gym and ask around.

+1 for the trad in the Wichita mountains, oklahoma (about a 4 hour drive if I remember correctly). My favorite spots were the narrows, lost dome, mount Scott, and crab eyes. Also some good bouldering by pear and apple, which is a formation in the Charon wilderness are out near lost some.

A little over an hour away is mineral wells, which is a top rope chose pile with a handful of fun routes. 

If you drive a little bit further, you have paradise on the brasos (a little under two hours). Fun sport climbing crag. Climbs are mostly between 25 and 40 feet, but that is about as good as it gets that close to Dallas. Make sure to drop your fee in the land owners box for camping, but then you can go down right next to the river and set up camp. 

Never went to Austin for climbing but I've heard there's good sport there.

As for gyms, summit owns 4 locations in the area and the two that I went to were both great.

Rogers Park has some decent bouldering above the lake. Like everything else in TX, it's brutal in the summer, but there is the lake.

No shortage of Christians in TX, although climbers tend to be more of the sinning variety!

1. There always seems to be Dallas climber's in the Wichita's, although summer is not the season to climb there. Your best bet is to chase shade, go to the Narrows, or go to the Meadows.

2. Should not be too hard to find a Christian partner from Oklahoma or Texas. There's also a fair share of heathens who are just as fun to climb with.

Another thought, perhaps your ability and perspective as a future pastor might be enriched by meeting, talking with and getting to know those that are different from you?  

Mineral Wells State Park, just west of Fort Worth.  You will need some long slings to reach the lip for TR.

Enchanted Rock State Natural Area in Fredricksburg (central Texas).  Great guide-book for this one.  ***** (5 stars)

better start praying...

I don't know if you've heard, but it gets a bit hot in Texas during the summer...

There is great climbing in the Austin area (ERock trad, Reimers sport) and Wichita, but it will be HOT.  Not to say you can't do it (start at dawn, finish by noon), but I don't know if it would be worth driving 5 hours for.  Wichita might be a little cooler if it's in the mountains (haven't been there), but sadly you are definitely trading down compared to Golden.

As an atheist trying to superimpose your frame of reference over my own (a perspective difficult to adopt without bias).

Isn't your proposal kind of like someone saying "As a medical intern, I would prefer to be around only healthy people." ?

Benj84 wrote:

As an atheist trying to superimpose your frame of reference over my own (a perspective difficult to adopt without bias).

Isn't your proposal kind of like someone saying "As a medical intern, I would prefer to be around only healthy people." ?

People like to hang out with others who have similar interests.  Nothing wrong with that.  And, I've lived and climbed in a lot of places; most places have a pretty strong correlation between climbers and less-religious types.  However, Dallas probably had more Christian climbers than any other place I've lived.  

Wichitas would definitely be hot during the summer, and you can't chase shade very easily. Mineral wells and paradise brasos will be hot, but have options for climbing in the shade

Paradise on the Brazos!!

It's anything but a paradise, but IS on the Brazos. Good BBQ out that way though.

Kind of hikacking, but I'm considering a position in Austin right now. Sounds like there's some sport climbing and bouldering. What are the quantity, quality and crowds like and am I basically kissing my gear climbing goodbye unless I make a 5 hour drive to oaklahoma (I can't believe I just typed that)? Other two places on the table are Tucson and Albuquerque but my wife likes the idea of having a yard with some grass and good schools for our kid. 

Phil, you don't move to Texas to climb outdoors. 

Phil Sakievich wrote:

Kind of hikacking, but I'm considering a position in Austin right now. Sounds like there's some sport climbing and bouldering. What are the quantity, quality and crowds like and am I basically kissing my gear climbing goodbye unless I make a 5 hour drive to oaklahoma (I can't believe I just typed that)? Other two places on the table are Tucson and Albuquerque but my wife likes the idea of having a yard with some grass and good schools for our kid. 

Worry not, Enchanted Rock is a fantastic granite trad crag an hour or two from Austin.  That said, Austin is by far the worst of your 3 options.  The biggest problem with Texas is not necessarily a lack of local climbing (Austin is the best for this), but rather how far it is from any really good climbing, aside from Potrero Chico.  In NM or AZ, you have proximity to really awesome climbing (Cochise anyone?), and you're not far from NV, CO, Utah, etc.

I have no idea what your situation is, or what your priorities are, but if you want to climb regularly, do not move to Texas. That being said, there are a lot of great things about Texas. It is far superior to anything in the midwest (as a westerner I dont count wisonsin and minnesota as the midwest - those are north!!)

grog m aka Greg McKee wrote:

I have no idea what your situation is, or what your priorities are, but if you want to climb regularly, do not move to Texas. That being said, there are a lot of great things about Texas. It is far superior to anything in the midwest (as a westerner I dont count wisonsin and minnesota as the midwest - those are north!!)

I disagree. I lived in Texas for 15 years total and the midwest (Ohio) for 6.5 years total and prefer the midwest partly because of its proximity to the Appalacian mountains, but also for its many trails (towpath and otherwise), libraries, bit cooler too.