Let's talk Texas.

Thanks for the input guys. Yeah I know Austin doesn't have the proximity and quantity of the other two cities. Climbing is my jam (pun intended) but it's only part of the equation for this move. I'm just trying to figure out how much I'm giving up so I can give it the proper weight in my decision. I'll have to check out enchanted rock. Granite and sandstone crack systems are my favorite things to climb. 

Phil, look the silos in Carrollton (the North Texas Outdoor Pursuit Center). You can meet some good people there, and get good beta.

Tradgic Yogurt wrote:

Phil, look the silos in Carrollton (the North Texas Outdoor Pursuit Center). You can meet some good people there, and get good beta.

I strongly second this suggestion. 

Why is Texas in the southern section of MP? Its not in the South.

grant N wrote:

Why is Texas in the southern section of MP? Its not in the South.

Thread drift in 3... 2... 

grant N wrote:

Why is Texas in the southern section of MP? Its not in the South.

Wait, did they finally move it out of the Midwest...

I've been climbing in Wichita Wildlife Refuge lately, which I see others have mentioned. What style of climbing are you most interested in? I primarily boulder, occasionally sport climb, and I'm willing to learn trad, which seems to be the most popular style at the Refuge. I see people trad climbing every weekend there, particularly at Crab Eyes and Lost Dome.

grant N wrote:

Why is Texas in the southern section of MP? Its not in the South.

The "South" implies southern United States, of which you can't get any further south than Brownsville, TX.

Ted Pinson wrote:

The "South" implies southern United States, of which you can't get any further south than Brownsville, TX.

Yes, but anyone with a bit of common sense and a clue about the culture, geography, and history knows that "The South" is not a direction.  Whenever someone says "The South," they mean the Southeast, from the tidewater through Appalachia, to the Mississippi Delta.  I agree that Texas should not be part of the South in the database here; it should be its own thing.  Or, you know, we can put Hawaii in "The South" as well.

https://fivethirtyeight.com/datalab/which-states-are-in-the-south/

Chris Fedorczak wrote:

https://fivethirtyeight.com/datalab/which-states-are-in-the-south/

Though, they do say "y'all" in TX, which makes it southern.  But seriously, this has been a debate for over a century, with people kind of acknowledging that TX is part West, part South, part Hispanic, and big&distinct enough that it should probably just be its own region.

Texas is dead South.  I'm sorry, guys, but you're way over analyzing this.  Nobody on this site cares about how closely related residents are to their spouses, they care about what geographical region the climbing happens to be in.  Texas is big, so you could argue that it constitutes multiple regions, or possibly should be included as its own area...except that the amount of climbing (and climbers) is disproportionately small compared to its size and population.  I guess you could include Dallas in the Midwest, Houston in the "South," Laredo in the "Southwest," and San Antonio/Austin in "International/Mexico" if you really wanted to, but that seems a bit extreme.

Ted Pinson wrote:

Texas is dead South.  I'm sorry, guys, but you're way over analyzing this.  Nobody on this site cares about how closely related residents are to their spouses, they care about what geographical region the climbing happens to be in.  Texas is big, so you could argue that it constitutes multiple regions, or possibly should be included as its own area...except that the amount of climbing (and climbers) is disproportionately small compared to its size and population.  I guess you could include Dallas in the Midwest, Houston in the "South," Laredo in the "Southwest," and San Antonio/Austin in "International/Mexico" if you really wanted to, but that seems a bit extreme.

Texas is south but not in The South

Brendan (& Phil) The WMWR is totally doable in summer. Been climbing there my whole life. The best options are north facing spots like thunderdome wall or ice box wall early in the morning, north facing and shaded with no gate to the parking area for an early start. When it starts getting hot you retreat to lake lawtonka for lunch and a swim. About three or four, (later if you like) head up to the top of Mt. Scott as the walls come into the shade and the breeze cools them off. 

You can chase shade and stay in the narrows most of the day. Some routes never see any sun at all. The main walls in the narrows will all be shaded late day but you have to scramble out before dark. 30min walk from the parking lot to the top of zoo wall. Walk in at 2:30 or 3 if it's in the 80s, wait till 4 or 5 when it's hotter. Hang a rap line and bust out about 6 to 10 routes in the shade with the south canyon breeze cooling you off. 20min from parking lot to aerial anticipation and you can belay with your feet in the creek.

If you move to TX the WMWR has a lot of south facing sunny walls for winter climbing and quartz is awesome in the winter at about an hr. farther depending on how you drive. No one ever mentions Hueco tanks on here, but it will blow your mind. NOT a summer destination and at 8.5 hrs. you need a four day weekend but totally worth the trip.  

Don't let Ted bring you down, Oklahoma rock is great. If you have some long weekends you can go to Arkansas too, (magazine and HCR are 5.5 to 6.5 hrs.) If you like the climbing at quartz you need to go to Granite mtn. (Prescott AZ) 

JB

OK so a couple of things here... I agree that Witchita will be your best bet, by a long shot... also horseshoe canyon is not that far of a drive (sub six hours)...

Lake mineral wells is a very unique place. Its TR only area. I got ticketed for leading a climb there (easy 5.9 unnamed crack). The rangers acted like I was free soloing the nose or something like that. I literally had this thing sewn up, but rules are rules and I broke them.

lesson learned, these guys don't understand lead climbing at all, and consider it illegal at this park, FYI.

Collin Holt wrote:

OK so a couple of things here... I agree that Witchita will be your best bet, by a long shot... also horseshoe canyon is not that far of a drive (sub six hours)...

Lake mineral wells is a very unique place. Its TR only area. I got ticketed for leading a climb there (easy 5.9 unnamed crack). The rangers acted like I was free soloing the nose or something like that. I literally had this thing sewn up, but rules are rules and I broke them.

lesson learned, these guys don't understand lead climbing at all, and consider it illegal at this park, FYI.

Anything in Arkansas is better than Oklahoma.

Wichita is cool man!! not sure what the comparison is about, that's like me saying anything in Colorado is better than Arkansas, or anything in California is better than Colorado...

Some people just want to drift and argue................. ;)

Arkansas and Oklahoma are not comparable. Complete apples and oranges. AR is mostly steep sandstone with modern bolt jobs. Oklahoma is mostly low-angle granite with scary protection and old school ratings.  Both have quality single pitch climbing, but not in the summer. It's too hot and sweaty. 

Collin Holt wrote:

Wichita is cool man!! not sure what the comparison is about, that's like me saying anything in Colorado is better than Arkansas, or anything in California is better than Colorado...

It's about the best nearby climbing, which is Arkansas.