The ACR Quad Anchor??

Hi All,

Been putzing around with my pre tied ACR and decided to make it a quad.

Thoughts? Comments? Ideas?

Looks Good! I really like the quad for an anchor because it is bomber and self- equalizes pretty well. If there are three bolts at the anchor (like in this picture), you can take one of the double strand ends and split it between the two bolts on lockers.

I mean it's just a quad at that point. The ring adds nothing.

Oh please, please tell me that the bolts in the example are just for convenience and that you don't really feel the need to equalize three modern bolts!

ACR?

ACR - Alpine Cock Ring

Looks like my pre-tied quad, except you added a ring for...?

You are not going to leave the whole mess at the top of a route and rap off, and to use ht ering you need to untie, thread the rope through and retie, giving you multiple chances to mess up.

@Hudon

No way Mark! Those bolts were just there as I was tinkering around. Note: even with the quad I only used two bolts.

@Matt

The ring is a part of the ACR. It's tied onto the cordolette. So when I made a quad out of the cordolette the ring was a bystander...doing nothing really.

No it's not for rappelling. It's an anchor.

Your knots are too far apart. Tighten that up to mitigate shock loading if a bolt were to fail.

Jeffo wrote:@Matt The ring is a part of the ACR. It's tied onto the cordolette. So when I made a quad out of the cordolette the ring was a bystander...doing nothing really. No it's not for rappelling. It's an anchor.

Jeffo wrote:@Matt The ring is a part of the ACR. It's tied onto the cordolette. So when I made a quad out of the cordolette the ring was a bystander...doing nothing really. No it's not for rappelling. It's an anchor.

Glad to hear it, Carry on.

the only time equalization matters is when ice climbing or FA's or if you are dumb enough to do R and X rated trad lines that are Not FA's ;) On 99% of the climbs that actually get climbed regularly, clove into the bolt or big blue and call it good. Ice climbing I use something simeler but its just a perma tied sewn 4ft nylon runner. Super slick and fast for equalizeing 2 screws. I do NOT worry about extension in that case because the whole point of equalization is to keep one the the screws from blowing. Not plan for what happens when the screw blows... though I do have a plan for that as well....

I would add a fourth bolt, just to be safe.

Looks like you just used overhand knots. I like a figure 8 because it shortens up your length (assuming you're using a standard length cordelette) and because, well, you'll want to untie this thing someday and it's a lot easier with a figure 8 once someone's been hanging on your TR anchor all day.