First time going to Indian Creek, any advice?

I haven't climbed in Indian Creek, but would like to sometime. I have been deterred because it seems like everything is 5.10 and up (with a few 9s). The only true crack I have lead is Bushwhack Crack 5.8 in little cottonwood and I thought it was hard. Since I am not a crack climber, it would be nice to start out on something easier, but I am wondering how well climbing cracks at the gym would prepare you for climbing cracks in Indian Creek? Of course gym climbing is usually quite a bit easier than outdoors, but it seems like a gym crack would translate well to cracks in IC. If you can climb a vertical 3" crack at the gym can you expect to climb vertical 3" crack in IC?

Thumer - gym cracks wont prepare you for leading a crack necessarily. But it can prepare your feet and hands for the...pain?...and allow them to adjust.

grog m aka Greg McKee wrote:Thumer - gym cracks wont prepare you for leading a crack necessarily. But it can prepare your feet and hands for the...pain?...and allow them to adjust.

ha ha, that's the truth.

Prepare for fun! And Pain! And groveling. The creek is amazing. Prepare to be in awe of your surroundings. Usually when I am anywhere else not climbing I wish I were in Indian Creek.

Be respectful of private land and closures. Leave no trace. Be cool!

Also plan for sandy breakfast burritos if its windy!

Thumer wrote:I haven't climbed in Indian Creek, but would like to sometime. I have been deterred because it seems like everything is 5.10 and up (with a few 9s). The only true crack I have lead is Bushwhack Crack 5.8 in little cottonwood and I thought it was hard. Since I am not a crack climber, it would be nice to start out on something easier, but I am wondering how well climbing cracks at the gym would prepare you for climbing cracks in Indian Creek? Of course gym climbing is usually quite a bit easier than outdoors, but it seems like a gym crack would translate well to cracks in IC. If you can climb a vertical 3" crack at the gym can you expect to climb vertical 3" crack in IC?

I'm guessing that you are from the SLC area based on your bushwack crack comment. If so, I'd say that the crack section of momentum sandy is actually a great place to learn the crack climbing techniques needed in the creek. Obviously it won't prepare you for everything, but just being able to understand how to jam and to trust your jams is the biggest issue with crack climbing at the creek in my opinion.

Ken-
Yea, I am in SLC. I have been practicing on the a crack at the Millcreek Momentum. Figured it would be a good skill to learn over the winter. After practicing it a bit, hand jams actually feel pretty secure, and was thinking a crack in Indian Creek might feel similar since they are so parallel and uniform. I probably won't climb there anytime soon though since I am about 6 to 8 blue cams short.

Try selfish wall there are some shorter climbs that don't require so much of the same size. Have fun!

Bring beer, lots of stoke and a willingness to carry a pack of someone elses gear to the cliff in exchange for pointers and TR's. People tend to be friendly in creek pasture and most dirtbags will happily offer to give you some pointers/assostance in exchange for a cold (or warm) PBR. Go for it, skip wall st. Start out with binous crack, chocolate corner, generic crack and "warm up crack" @ battle of the bulge and definitely don't take your gf to climb supercrack (its more like 511 offwidth for people with small hands). If it rains, PLEASE DON'T GO CLIMBING, plenty of gorgeous hikes in the area to keep you occupied while the sandstone dries. Good luck!