Redpoint with Prehung Draws

I too enjoy making up statistics so I looked for the three of the most popular 5.12 trad climbs in Eldo and came up with:

Sequential (45 ticks)
Crazy Fingers (29 ticks)
Genesis (117 ticks) you can argue just how sporty Genesis is with all the fixed gear.

And three of the most popular trad climbs in Eldo:
Calypso (1518 ticks)
Bastille Crack (2374 ticks)
Rewritten (1477 ticks)

3.5% of trad climbers climb 5.12 trad, my very first alternative "fact"!

David Hous wrote: Genesis (117 ticks)

People are ticking P1 of Genesis (11a). P2 is probably 5.13a in its current polished condition.

On the other hand, people who are capable of 5.12 on gear tick plenty of easier routes.

Edited to add:
Evictor (12+) has more ticks (48) than Crazy Fingers (12a).

Aha! I've drawn you into my web of meaningless stats!
Switching Genesis out (you are right about the P1 ticks) and Evictor in we get 2.3% of Eldo trad climbers climb 5.12 trad!

Drederek wrote:When I pussypoint a route I have no problem telling people that is the style I climbed it in. Get over yourselves people!

Hahahaaaaaa

David Hous wrote:Aha! I've drawn you into my web of meaningless stats! Switching Genesis out (you are right about the P1 ticks) and Evictor in we get 2.3% of Eldo trad climbers climb 5.12 trad!

For some reason, I like your name.

Yess! Alternative facts, I think this may be the new MP trend and I am all aboard, thanks sensitive old man Healy!

My alternative fact: 95% of trad climbers lack the motivation to train and become better climbers because of their big and sensitive nutz. Risking your life is easy, being strong is not.

Those big sensitive nutz hurt fellas, and they make a person attack the creed of which they are jealous. After all, it's the monkey with the smallest balls that makes the most noise. Risking your life is a normal everyday experience for lazy Americans addicted to their little pleasures ;) (that is called a false analogy, a la faux newz.)

If these lazy climbers could only get over their big and sensitive nutz they would see that risking your life for fun is actually f**king weird. Being proud of risking your life is even weirder, but to be honest, sometimes it's also a little bit culo.

I have climbed 5.12 trad, and it took planning and a little effort, but it was not that difficult. Shiz, 20 years ago I climbed a 5.11+ trad route when I was a teen, so it couldn't' be that hard; a bit stupid perhaps!

Now, on the other hand, 5.13 + sport kicks my flaccid schlong in the head, every time, all the time, no matter how hard I work; call it bad genes if you must.

I can't wait for my next alternative fact, I love this new Trump's America, it's so dang easy.

Bambuda says.....

No nuts....No glory

Know nuts.....Know glory!

Jack Quarless wrote:Yess! Alternative facts, I think this may be the new MP trend and I am all aboard, thanks sensitive old man Healy! My alternative fact: 95% of trad climbers lack the motivation to train and become better climbers because of their big and sensitive nutz. Risking your life is easy, being strong is not. Those big sensitive nutz hurt fellas, and they make a person attack the creed of which they are jealous. After all, it's the monkey with the smallest balls that makes the most noise. Risking your life is a normal everyday experience for lazy Americans addicted to their little pleasures ;) (that is called a false analogy, a la faux newz.) If these lazy climbers could only get over their big and sensitive nutz they would see that risking your life for fun is actually f**king weird. Being proud of risking your life is even weirder, but to be honest, sometimes it's also a little bit culo. I have climbed 5.12 trad, and it took planning and a little effort, but it was not that difficult. Shiz, 20 years ago I climbed a 5.11+ trad route when I was a teen, so it couldn't' be that hard; a bit stupid perhaps! Now, on the other hand, 5.13 + sport kicks my flaccid schlong in the head, every time, all the time, no matter how hard I work; call it bad genes if you must. I can't wait for my next alternative fact, I love this new Trump's America, it's so dang easy.

You really do have a shitty attitude. Risking your life is getting into that car and making that 40 minute commute five days a week with a good percentage of the drivers, distracted by the phone a fight with the wife/husband, trying to eat all while tailgating. Then there is the 10% or so that are intoxicated on one substance or another who use to be the most dangerous but now it's the guy who thinks his life is so important that he has to reply right now to that text message. When I go out to climb (and I place my own pro) I have a lot more control than when I am on the way to work.

beensandbagged wrote: I am sure there are a lot of people out there under 45 who appreciate the more multifaceted experience that placing your own gear offers and consider those greater demands to be rewarding and fun.

Some of us do both and prefer not to be judged on either.

Jack Quarless wrote: Risking your life is easy,

Lol......;)

Jack Quarless wrote: Risking your life is easy, being strong is not.

Choosing to risk your life is incredibly easy if you don't know what the fuck you're doing. Choosing and managing risks intelligently is not easy - far from it. Again, I don't climb for difficulty or risk, I climb because I get obsessed with a line and take whatever it offers - easy / hard, G / X - I try to take it in stride. Latest, long-delayed project (due to work and caretaking my wife) is a six pitch, ground up, R/X FA with either seven or eight roofs. We've been stuck out cranking the lip of the third and largest roof trying to get established on the unclimbed headwall above. That sequence has now turned us back six times and the partner is a solid 5.13/.14 sport climber.

I can assure you being both physically and emotionally strong and able to competently exercise good judgment while under stress in a wide range of circumstances is far, far harder and more demanding than just clipping bolts at any difficulty level.

Healyje wrote: I climb because I get obsessed with a line and take whatever it offers - easy / hard, G / X - I try to take it in stride.

Thats funny because you ignore at least 50% of the climbs this world has to offer, some of which are absolutely amazing lines, all in a quest to prove a point that bolts are evil(exception being when they are convenient for you). It almost seems that you climb more to prove yourself to the youngsters than you climb for just fun. OCD? Do you go and belay your "partner" when he/she is working their 5.13 sport routes?

T Roper wrote:It almost seems that you climb more to prove yourself to the youngsters than you climb for just fun. OCD? Do you go and belay your "partner" when he/she is working their 5.13 sport routes?

I think Joe climbs whatever he wants when he wants for the sake of doing it.

I guess I missed the part where he said he never gets on any sport routes.

It's important to note this thread started with someone basically requesting permission to redpoint on pre-hung draws and at one point someone who's profile said they climb 5.12 want's a bolt every 5'

What's next? Color coding holds? JB

;)

T Roper wrote: Thats funny because you ignore at least 50% of the climbs this world has to offer, some of which are absolutely amazing lines, all in a quest to prove a point that bolts are evil(exception being when they are convenient for you). It almost seems that you climb more to prove yourself to the youngsters than you climb for just fun. OCD? Do you go and belay your "partner" when he/she is working their 5.13 sport routes?

That's all the old guys do on here. "Back in my day I slung a rock with my belt off my 36x30s for a belay."

John Barritt wrote:I think Joe climbs whatever he wants when he wants for the sake of doing it. I guess I missed the part where he said he never gets on any sport routes. It's important to note this thread started with someone basically requesting permission to redpoint on pre-hung draws and at one point someone who's profile said they climb 5.12 want's a bolt every 5' What's next? Color coding holds? JB ;)

If you take the OP as being sincere and not a troll then it would seem that even new inexperienced people sense that there might be something less then totally legit about pink pointing.

jmmlol wrote: That's all the old guys do on here. "Back in my day I slung a rock with my belt off my 36x30s for a belay."

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/lost-warriors/105789552

Eric Engberg wrote: If you take the OP as being sincere and not a troll then it would seem that even new inexperienced people sense that there might be something less then totally legit about pink pointing.

Exactly

John Barritt wrote:https://www.mountainproject.com/v/lost-warriors/105789552

And?

jmmlol wrote: And?

Troll

Equanimity in the face of physical danger is an important skill that climbing can develop.

Believing that such physical bravery is the most important value in climbing strikes me as appropriate for twenty year olds.

Middle aged and old climbers who don't recognize all the other values that climbing instills (fellowship, persistence, appreciation for the environment, just plain joy, etc) seem emotionally stunted to me.