Funny Climbing Gym Stories?

Yeah, I don't know what it is about bowlines, but I've had people erroneously question mine as well. I think a part of the problem is the numerous variations and also the angle/orientation (it looks weird if it's "upside down."

For everyone who read RMS' story about him rope soloing, I'm pretty sure that was me who came up to him talking to him about his bowlines, because that story sounds EXACTLY like an incident I had with someone rope-soloing at Carderock a while ago. If this is the person I'm thinking of, he's affectionately known as "Deadly Bowline Dude" on John Gregory's blog Dumb Anchors.

Here is a picture Mr. Gregory got of his bowlines (google "dumb anchors deadly bowline dude" for many more entries on his blog)

Here is what a textbook bowline for top-roping should look like

As you can see, there is a big difference between the two, which I pointed out because I was concerned about the safety of his setup. Also, I did not learn to climb in a gym, I learned at Great Falls in a 6 week class taught by an AMGA certified climbing guide. I just happened to have my belay cord on my harness because it was girth hitched on a gear loop so I don't forget it, because I also climb in a gym, as does most everyone.

Funny how everything always comes back to the bowline...

I think it's funny to walk into a popular Denver climbing gym in winter and see people belaying in their expedition-grade parka with enough down to make a subspecies of goose somewhere go extinct.

It wouldn't be funny if the gym is actually cold, but noooooo, the staff keeps the heater on full blast so the only way I can send that V-intro on the vertical wall next to the cave is to take off my shirt and try really hard.

The picture I got is just one that John Gregory has gotten. It was the first one I found, not the one from that day. Here is another one.

Mark Finnigan wrote:Disclaimer: This is not a story, but rather a scenario I've always wanted to witness. I've actually considered doing as a prank just to see the reactions.

Seeing people with strangely useless gear on their harness isn't out of the ordinary at the gym I go to. Example: an ATC AND grigri, a cordelette or two, a random quick draw, a PAS, and the lone locking biner attaching their chalkbag to their harness via the haul loop. I haven't spied anyone with actual trad gear though. The closest would be some sort of additional weight - like the dude that would try power endurance routes wearing ankle weights. That guy gets a pass, as he's actually very strong, and probably has a good idea on what he's trying to accomplish.

There was the story of the dude that decided it was a good idea to put himself on indirect on one of the draws on a similar route, which I think isn't the wisest idea, especially if the belayer doesn't know WTF you're doing. But seriously, it's a gym, wtf are you doing?

One thing that does happen semi regularly is when a climber, usually traveling, sorts out their pack of trad gear inside where tables are set up, slowly and methodically. I'm guessing they'd rather do it there, instead of in/near the van in the parking lot they're sleeping in. It's just a funny scene of coupla people on laptops next to dude with sorting out his big wall/Indian Creek rack.

Climbing Gyms are just funny places that somewhat function as incredibly different things, to different people. I'm completely sure many members go, but never, ever climb.

Not at the gym, but I did a double take one time seeing someone using one of those gray BD haulbags for their groceries at King Soopers. Ah, Boulder.

^^ laughed out loud imagining this unctuous guy!

bkozak wrote:The picture I got is just one that John Gregory has gotten. It was the first one I found, not the one from that day. Here is another one.

Those tails, tho!

Speaking of trad gear at the gym, there is a guy at my local gym that is always sporting a triple rack of cams, nuts, and an assortment of hexes. He only ever climbs between 5.7-5.9 and you can hear his cowbells throughout the entire gym. The worst part is, I initially thought he was doing it to build endurance, but I have only seen him using auto-belays... the upward pull on the ones our gym uses pretty much negates anything he is carrying on his harness.

Eh, sounds like he is building endurance. Autobelay is a dead give away, as anything else is just cruel (unless he's paying his belayers).I'd probably just use a weight belt, but I guess that would better approximate the feel of climbing with a rack on...but why the cowbells?!

I saw a guy on a fairly overhung route(on top rope), trying to make a difficult move. He peeled off and yelled "weeeee" as he swung back and forth. His belayer, without warning, let him drop about 8ft and then stopped him and said, "If you yell weeee you get dropped!"

Sounds like a reasonable rule, right?

brian n wrote:I saw a guy on a fairly overhung route(on top rope), trying to make a difficult move. He peeled off and yelled "weeeee" as he swung back and forth. His belayer, without warning, let him drop about 8ft and then stopped him and said, "If you yell weeee you get dropped!" Sounds like a reasonable rule, right?

That sounds like a really good way to lose control and accidently drop somebody.

eli poss wrote: That sounds like a really good way to lose control and accidently drop somebody.

That is true. Sorry, my question was intended to be sarcastic which doesn't always come across in online communications.

Long Ranger wrote: the lone locking biner attaching their chalkbag to their harness via the haul loop

One of many things that climbers make fun of that I've never seen a good reason for making fun of it... Uncoolness is not a good reason.

JK- wrote: One of many things that climbers make fun of that I've never seen a good reason for making fun of it... Uncoolness is not a good reason.

Falling on your back or getting flipped and back first into the wall should be a decent reason. I've heard of broken backs from it.....

From a chalk bag?

Ted Pinson wrote:From a chalk bag?

The carabiner holding it.

Ted Pinson wrote:From a chalk bag?

I belayed a coworker at a local gym who would quite loudly yell 'take' whenever he thought he might fall - while top roping.

I said 'dude, you're on top rope - there's no slack in the system' several times. He didn't stop.