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Quickdraws & carbiners for ice climbing

Original Post
MyFeetHurt · · Glenwood, CO · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 10

What are you guys using for ice climbing? Quickdraws or alpine draws, and which ones? I've been using a 50/50 mix if BD posiwire quick draws and Ange L/Mammut Contact slings, mostly because that is just what I have laying around. I need to pick up some more now since not all of my partners have their own gear.

Shepido · · Denver, CO · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 50

I do carry a few alpine draws (maybe 2-3 max) but mostly quickdraws.

I currently use a full size toothless wiregates with a 25mm gate opening, attached to a 12cm long dogbone, with the logic that putting most screws in between chest and waist level I don't like reaching super low between my legs to clip the rope.I really hate any sort of toothed carabiner though and basically refuse to carry it.

Matt Carroll · · Van · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 272

^nail on the head with that reply. I basically do that same thing. I like a wide gate opening on the rope end.

People gripe about the gate tension and the nose of the camp photons, but it doesn't bother me and I find them easy to operate with gloves. you can get the key lock version if the nose bothers ya. My .02

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

I use two trad draws, two long draws and the six 12cm draws most days. I use Camp Photon biners, key lock on gear side and wire gate on rope side.

For steep single pitch I use eight all 10 cm Ange draws. S for gear and L for rope.

Edit: I made a couple draws using shorty screamers. I've had them for.. ever so why not. How many even use screamers any longer?

Kevin Zagorda · · Glen Haven, Co · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 600

In addition to quick draws and 1 or 2 alpine draws, I carry at least 2 screamers. 1 for the first piece and the rest for stubbies or not so good ice.

wisam · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 60

Use mostly quick draws with maybe 2 alpine draws. Petzl ange is really nice for ice. Agreed, big for rope side. Notches are especially terrible to deal with when wearing gloves. The Camp orbit wires are a cheaper option that clips pretty nice on the rope side where the notch isn't much of an issue.

doligo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 264

I really like WC Heliums. Only get Petzl Anges if you absolutely hate your partner - they're PITA to clean for some reason.

Marty Theriault · · Quebec, QC · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 310
Bill Kirby wrote: I use two trad draws, two long draws and the six 12cm draws most days. I use Camp Photon biners, key lock on gear side and wire gate on rope side. For steep single pitch I use eight all 10 cm Ange draws. S for gear and L for rope. Edit: I made a couple draws using shorty screamers. I've had them for.. ever so why not. How many even use screamers any longer?

Totally stopped using them for a few years now.

good read
willgadd.com/599/

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

Thanks for the link! I enjoyed the part where Will Gadd wrote that leashed tools swing better than leashless. I remember reading an article Will Gadd wrote where he called leashless tools "a fad". Oh how about the one he wrote sh&ting all over that guy who fell on Dracula a while back.

The thing is, I've got the screamers so why not bring a couple? Well other than the ice in the Northeast will be gone by the weekend :)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Ice Climbing
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