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nathanael
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Jul 22, 2016
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San Diego
· Joined May 2011
· Points: 525
https://www.instagram.com/p/BIC40P_ga3T/?taken-by=renegeerlings Any clue what this, and what it's for?
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nathanael
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Jul 22, 2016
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San Diego
· Joined May 2011
· Points: 525
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dJfXFQdjZJA Oh. I looked some more. It's called the Gemini and it's a belay carabiner. Seems like a terribly over-engineered solution to something as simple as belay device cross-loading, considering how simple the capture wires on other products are.
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David Gibbs
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Jul 23, 2016
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Ottawa, ON
· Joined Aug 2010
· Points: 2
In most situations, I just don't actually worry that much about a cross-loaded belay biner. In no top-rope or single-pitch lead situation will the force on my belay biner even come close to the 7-9 kN cross-load rating. The only point I might worry about this, is if I'm catching a high-factor fall off the anchor in a multi-pitch situation. I try to avoid those for other reasons than belay biner cross-load, though.
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Derek M
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Jul 23, 2016
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VA
· Joined Feb 2010
· Points: 100
Black Diamond Gridlock seems infinitely more elegant. Honestly, it is pretty nice just 100% taking cross-loading out of the equation. I am a fan.
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Noah Yetter
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Jul 23, 2016
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Lakewood, CO
· Joined Jul 2015
· Points: 105
Wish it had a nicer top bar cross-section. I'll get one of these because it's goofy and I love gadgets, but for belaying with a tube device the best picks are the WC Ascent Lite Belay, and the Grivel Clepsydra, which both have nice big, round top bars.
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Khoi
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Jul 23, 2016
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Vancouver, BC
· Joined Oct 2009
· Points: 50
Man... That is one complex and over-engineered fix to what is barely a problem. This is my go to solution for belay biner cross loading
I am not at all concerned about cross loading of belay biners. That said, all of my belay biners have some sort of anti cross load feature, not because I think it's a safety concern (I do not when it comes to belay biners) but because I am a control freak. I don't like my belay biners spinning around when a don't want them to, and I never want them to.
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JK- Branin
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Jul 24, 2016
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NYC-ish
· Joined Nov 2012
· Points: 56
Dafuq?
I'll probably get one and never use it... I like weird gear...
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Tristan Burnham
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Nov 25, 2016
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La Crescenta, CA
· Joined Oct 2009
· Points: 2,298
It looks like it's promoting bad habits because the one side looks like it's not locked even though it is.
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MP
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Nov 25, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Sep 2013
· Points: 2
The whole fascination with anti-cross-loading gimmickry for belay biners is so perplexing to me. Has anyone, in the history of rock climbing, ever had a locking biner break by cross-loading in a belay situation? (I'm talking about normal belay scenarios, not rope-solo)
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eli poss
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Nov 25, 2016
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Durango, CO
· Joined May 2014
· Points: 525
mpech wrote:The whole fascination with anti-cross-loading gimmickry for belay biners is so perplexing to me. Has anyone, in the history of rock climbing, ever had a locking biner break by cross-loading in a belay situation? (I'm talking about normal belay scenarios, not rope-solo) biners breaking isn't the only issue with crossloading. It also make some belay devices harder to operate and is really annoying.
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Mark Hudon
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Nov 26, 2016
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Reno, NV
· Joined Jul 2009
· Points: 420
mpech wrote:The whole fascination with anti-cross-loading gimmickry for belay biners is so perplexing to me. Has anyone, in the history of rock climbing, ever had a locking biner break by cross-loading in a belay situation? (I'm talking about normal belay scenarios, not rope-solo) I totally agree. A solution to a problem that doesn't exist.
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Khoi
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Nov 26, 2016
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Vancouver, BC
· Joined Oct 2009
· Points: 50
Mark Hudon wrote: I totally agree. A solution to a problem that doesn't exist. I can only speak for myself. The problem that it is a solution for is not an issue of safety; it is an issue of annoyance.
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Mark Hudon
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Nov 26, 2016
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Reno, NV
· Joined Jul 2009
· Points: 420
I agree with the annoying part but I don't believe it was designed to solve an annoyance.
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Firestone
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Nov 26, 2016
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California
· Joined Nov 2015
· Points: 186
Anti crossload biners may help with autotubers like the Megajul/Up. Thoughts?
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Pavel Burov
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Nov 26, 2016
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Russia
· Joined May 2013
· Points: 50
Firestone wrote:Anti crossload biners may help with autotubers like the Megajul/Up. Thoughts? Get a Mega Jul package. It comes with cross-loading preventing binner.
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Jim Titt
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Nov 26, 2016
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Germany
· Joined Nov 2009
· Points: 490
Firestone wrote:Anti crossload biners may help with autotubers like the Megajul/Up. Thoughts? There´s a fair few like the Smart, ClickUp and so on that don´t work at all if the karabiner is crossed. Some don´t even work with things like the Belay Master.
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eli poss
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Nov 26, 2016
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Durango, CO
· Joined May 2014
· Points: 525
Jim Titt wrote: There´s a fair few like the Smart, ClickUp and so on that don´t work at all if the karabiner is crossed. Some don´t even work with things like the Belay Master. You wouldn't want to use a biner like that for a smart, though, as it doesn't have a round cross-section. That being said, I think the mad rock thing is over-engineered. A simple wiregate is much simpler solution. Keep it simple, stupid.
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