Crazy Mad Rock Gemini double-biner


Original Post
nathanael · · Riverside, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 199

https://www.instagram.com/p/BIC40P_ga3T/?taken-by=renegeerlings

Mad Rock biner?

Any clue what this, and what it's for?

nathanael · · Riverside, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 199

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dJfXFQdjZJA

Oh. I looked some more. It's called the Gemini and it's a belay carabiner. Seems like a terribly over-engineered solution to something as simple as belay device cross-loading, considering how simple the capture wires on other products are.

David Gibbs · · Ottawa, ON · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 6

In most situations, I just don't actually worry that much about a cross-loaded belay biner. In no top-rope or single-pitch lead situation will the force on my belay biner even come close to the 7-9 kN cross-load rating. The only point I might worry about this, is if I'm catching a high-factor fall off the anchor in a multi-pitch situation. I try to avoid those for other reasons than belay biner cross-load, though.

mission · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 0

Black Diamond Gridlock seems infinitely more elegant.

Honestly, it is pretty nice just 100% taking cross-loading out of the equation. I am a fan.

Noah Yetter · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 10

Wish it had a nicer top bar cross-section. I'll get one of these because it's goofy and I love gadgets, but for belaying with a tube device the best picks are the WC Ascent Lite Belay, and the Grivel Clepsydra, which both have nice big, round top bars.

Khoi · · Vancouver, BC · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 0

Man... That is one complex and over-engineered fix to what is barely a problem.

This is my go to solution for belay biner cross loading



I am not at all concerned about cross loading of belay biners. That said, all of my belay biners have some sort of anti cross load feature, not because I think it's a safety concern (I do not when it comes to belay biners) but because I am a control freak. I don't like my belay biners spinning around when a don't want them to, and I never want them to.

JK- Branin · · SLC · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 13

Dafuq?

I'll probably get one and never use it... I like weird gear...

Rich zz · · california · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 0

i like my metolius gatekeeper



http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/gatekeeper.html

Tristan B · · La Crescenta, CA · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 1,480

It looks like it's promoting bad habits because the one side looks like it's not locked even though it is.

mpech · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 6

The whole fascination with anti-cross-loading gimmickry for belay biners is so perplexing to me.

Has anyone, in the history of rock climbing, ever had a locking biner break by cross-loading in a belay situation? (I'm talking about normal belay scenarios, not rope-solo)

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 136
mpech wrote:The whole fascination with anti-cross-loading gimmickry for belay biners is so perplexing to me. Has anyone, in the history of rock climbing, ever had a locking biner break by cross-loading in a belay situation? (I'm talking about normal belay scenarios, not rope-solo)
biners breaking isn't the only issue with crossloading. It also make some belay devices harder to operate and is really annoying.
Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 0
mpech wrote:The whole fascination with anti-cross-loading gimmickry for belay biners is so perplexing to me. Has anyone, in the history of rock climbing, ever had a locking biner break by cross-loading in a belay situation? (I'm talking about normal belay scenarios, not rope-solo)
I totally agree. A solution to a problem that doesn't exist.
Khoi · · Vancouver, BC · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 0
Mark Hudon wrote: I totally agree. A solution to a problem that doesn't exist.
I can only speak for myself.

The problem that it is a solution for is not an issue of safety; it is an issue of annoyance.
Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 0

I agree with the annoying part but I don't believe it was designed to solve an annoyance.

Firestone · · California · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 449

Anti crossload biners may help with autotubers like the Megajul/Up. Thoughts?

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 25
Firestone wrote:Anti crossload biners may help with autotubers like the Megajul/Up. Thoughts?
Get a Mega Jul package. It comes with cross-loading preventing binner.
Jim Titt · · Germany · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 0
Firestone wrote:Anti crossload biners may help with autotubers like the Megajul/Up. Thoughts?
There´s a fair few like the Smart, ClickUp and so on that don´t work at all if the karabiner is crossed. Some don´t even work with things like the Belay Master.
eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 136
Jim Titt wrote: There´s a fair few like the Smart, ClickUp and so on that don´t work at all if the karabiner is crossed. Some don´t even work with things like the Belay Master.
You wouldn't want to use a biner like that for a smart, though, as it doesn't have a round cross-section. That being said, I think the mad rock thing is over-engineered. A simple wiregate is much simpler solution. Keep it simple, stupid.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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