3 week last minute training suggestions for RRG

I'm returning to the Southeast (Red, flying into Lexington) on the 14th of November. This means I have three weeks until I climb at the Red.

I just spent 10 days climbing at the New. Onsight 11+, really struggled with endurance to redpoint many low 12's. Don't have a problem on technical power of the moves-probably can do most 12c/d cruxes at the New but I just pump out.

The Red is NOT my style-pumpy and overhanging-I'm probably going to get worked. NONETHELESS-I have three weeks at a top gym and not much else going on until I return. What should I focus on??

Endurance? Losing a couple of pounds? General strength/4x4's? Lots of mileage on overhanging gym routes? Any specific recommendations greatly appreciated!!

stick to a muscle milk/gatorade/pizza/grapes diet.
hangboard after you eat.
purge what hasn't been digested.
wear 4 pound ankle weights for the duration of your training.

Just start spraying as much as possible and you'll be fine

Eat, do frenchies, poop, sleep, repeat.

Find some deep, flat holds on steep terrain in the gym and see how long you can hang on.

I'd say endurance/overhanging gym routes are what I would prioritize. Maybe a few low-key runs or other cardio/week... I always seem to recover faster at rests if I've been doing my road work. Figuring out how to climb well while "shaking on the go" is pretty helpful I think too. Enjoy your trip! Jealous:)

Any specific routes you're hoping to get on? I'm guessing that you want to get on the stereotypical Red routes.

The good news is that your body responds quickly to power endurance training so 3 weeks can probably make a big difference. My recommendation is do some high volume sessions with long warmup/arc on steeper juggy routes and then focus on route intervals and 4x4s (preferable to downclimb in between each problem for your 4x4 instead jumping off) for the meat of your workout. During your warmups it would be helpful to practice finding and maximizing rests on steeper terrain and incorporating some other skill drills on steeper terrain. You say that overhanging and pumpy is not your style-that's probably a combination of physiological factors as well as technique and better technique will lead to more lasting improvements.

If you're looking for a break from the overhanging jug hauls of the red at some point during your trip the following routes might be a nice reprieve:
All things considered 11d, vertical, technical stemming, and crimps
Break the Scene 12a, steeper stemming
Massive attack, 12a, crimpy

Echoing what others said about just training endurance. Do 4x4's, even some ARCing, and three weeks is definitely enough time to build endurance for the RRG.

That said, I've never found a perfect way to train the endurance necessary to hold onto 90 feet of v0+ moves in the gym alone. Keep maintaining your overall fitness, and you'll build endurance on your projects themselves at the RRG.

Perhaps the most effective training I found for the RRG was to develop a fairly easy circuit of jugs that would boulder "laps" around a wall– basically a circle of maybe 25-30 moves that ends at the same place you started, giving you a 10+/11- pump. THEN, contrive some v2-3 boulder problems that start from the same starting point as the easy circuit. After doing a lap on the jugs, go right into the boulder problem. This really helps endurance– basically training you to do a v3 boulder problem with a full pump on.

I trained for the Red exactly three weeks. Sending routes at the Red is all about endurance. From that perspective, what worked for me was 3 climbing sessions per week plus an additional day climbing outside. For my gym sessions, I would ARC 20-30min on easy to moderate terrain (4-5 grades below my on-sight max level) and then do a circuit of 30-40 moves on steep overhanging terrain with big holds. I usually made up the routes on ground and made sure to minimize the rest other than the occasional chalking up. I would do this atleast 4 times with a break of about 2.5 mins per set at the beginning. By the end of my 5-6 session, I was down to 1.5 mins of break per set. On any given set if you fall off before completing 50% of the madeup route, I would call the workout done and go home.

On my off climbing days, I focussed on level 2 yoga (only minor handstand) focussing on shoulder stability, hips and forearm recovery.

All the best!