Clipping stoppers wtih quick draws
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I have seen several mentions of clipping nuts/ stoppers with a quick draw rather than an alpine draw. |
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Better is subjective. It's generally more likely a stopper will pull when clipped with a shorter sling. Sometimes you get that perfect placement though and a quickdraw is fine. Personally I tend to sling most stuff long for rope drag unless it's pretty hard climbing. To each their own i suppose. |
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1. quicker |
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You can clip them with any type of sling or draw you want. I am not aware of any distinct, explicate and universal safety advantages to one option over the other. The only universal truth I know is that some wiregate carabiners have a higher chance of coming uncliped from a nut than solidgates. This is because the skinny steel cable can easily wrap around the side of the gate and open it. None the less, I use wiregates on all my draws and slings so that tell you how much I am concerned about it. |
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I think the issue of concern is the stiffness of many popular draws (Spirits etc) that can lead to problems with nut placements. Stiffer draws are more likely to cause the stopper/bolt side carabiner to lift and torque, which can potentially move the nut out of place. Draws made with more flexible/floppy fabric are less likely to move in a manner that can mess with placements. |
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David Coley wrote: 3. the pieces will be in the right order (if you had a cam below a stopper and put the stopper on a long sling, the stopper would effective be below the cam)This is actually a really good point and something that is often overlooked when placing pro. You can pretty easily become z-clipped doing that. |
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20 kN wrote:...I am condensed about it.20kn, Noooo! Stop condensing! |
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David Coley, |
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The type of sling doesn't matter they all work the same. The length of the sling only matters to try to keep the rope straight so you don't create rope drag which can lead to gear being pulled out / a nightmare when you get towards the end of a pitch. |
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There is always the option to place the nut, untie your rope from your harness, thread the rope through the piece, then retie before continuing. |
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Hugo Watt wrote:There is always the option to place the nut, untie your rope from your harness, thread the rope through the piece, then retie before continuing. That way you don't even need to carry either type of draw.Much safer to run the rope through the gear than tie it into your harness than untie and feed it through and retie the figure 8... that way you are always still tied in and safe. |
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ViperScale wrote: Much safer to run the rope through the gear than tie it into your harness than untie and feed it through and retie the figure 8... that way you are always still tied in and safe.Actually, why not just pre-thread all the nuts onto your rope in the order you're going to use them before you tie-in? Seems a lot quicker and easier that way -- no need for all that faffing around at each placement. |
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Jake Jones wrote: This. 100%. I always carry a few floppy draws with the thinner dogbones (older BD positron draws, or newer hoodwire draws) in addition to extendable draws for this very reason.I picked up a couple of the long version of these dogbones for this purpose and quite like them. Bigger "loose end" than say, a hotwire all nylon 18" draw. gearexpress.com/metolius-to… |