Good first Gunks 5.7 leads

I have some friends that are breaking into leading 7s at the Gunks. I think 5.7 is a weird grade there. Many of the classic 7s (Strictly from Nowhere, Something Interesting, CCK, Limelight, Ken's Crack) are all more like 7+ and many other 7s (Cakewalk, Alley Oop, Classic, Baskerville Terrace, Yellow Ridge) have unprotected, bouldery starts and/or weird moves that aren't a great sample of 5.7 climbing.

Any suggestions for good first leads to those breaking into 5.7s? Han's Puss doesn't seem like a bad option. The 5.7 traverse on the second pitch is pretty straightforward and I thought the gear was pretty reasonably spaced. I think the third pitches of Maria and Yellow Ridge are also more like well-protected 7s too.

Yellow Ridge is a GREAT 7, however not one for someone breaking the grade.

Wisecrack, Fancy Idiot are ok 7s

I would pursue stiffer 5.6s that would help get your reps to committing movement. I would suggest Tequila Mockingbird...I feel that the climb definitely blurs the line between 6 and 7.

good luck

Don't do Handy Andy or trapped like a rat... There's laurel of course. Alley oop and cakewalk are both good. The Nose is a well protected 6++ which I think is quite cool and underrated, and good rope management practice as well

P1 of Modern Times is a pretty soft and well-protected 5.7.

Personally would not recommend P2 of Hans Puss given the traversing involved, I recall with somewhat spaced gear.

I vaguely remember Sleepwalk over by Ant's Line being a modest 5.7. V-3?

Strictly is really a decent option and feels like 5.7 to me if you are able to hang out on giant jugs.

Classic is not bad if you don't mind the move off the deck...

When I lead cakewalk as a new leader I thought it was a cakewalk in the same way that Greenland is green

D-Roc wrote:Yellow Ridge is a GREAT 7, however not one for someone breaking the grade. Wisecrack, Fancy Idiot are ok 7s

Wisecrack is 5.6 (one of the few 5.6s I've not led there, reputation is that it's quite sandbagged so you're 'right' in thinking of it like a 5.7).

Someone please correct me on this... but my understanding regarding Yellow Ridge is that the original start is 5.7, which is left and up the gearless arete/face, NOT the strenuous (but with tons of gear) 5.8 left facing corner and undercling start commonly climbed today.

I don't think it gets much better than Limelight for Gunks 5.7

It's true that a lot of the Gunks 5.7s are very sustained and/or strenuous. I've not led some because they're on my to-do list, others because they aren't. Although most of the harder moves on Something Interesting are technically 5.7 (and the one crux perhaps 5.8ish), there's just a lot of 5.7 and it's vertical so you're on your arms a lot. The caveat is that climbers now link pitches one and two to the GT ledge, but you can divide the first pitch up.

I don't know what the original start was to Yellow Ridge, and it has been a couple years, but the corner start felt like 5.7 to me. I don't think you have to undercling, and in fact recall it being a good amount harder if you do. I thought the offwidth section was harder, albeit also 5.7. Not a good first 5.7 lead.

Wisecrack is awkward and feels like a solid 7 or harder to me without perfect beta.

Logan Schiff wrote:I don't know what the original start was to Yellow Ridge, and it has been a couple years, but the corner start felt like 5.7 to me. I don't think you have to undercling, and in fact recall it being a good amount harder if you do. I thought the offwidth section was harder, albeit also 5.7. Not a good first 5.7 lead.

The off-width crux is not that bad, it's just committing (no beta spray here). If you climb the entire thing like an off width, yeah that's probably a bit harder than 5.7

I've followed on Yellow Ridge several times. Once climbing the true start (blank face on left directly below the offwidth above). The true start is much easier though PG/R compared to the left facing corner start. It could be style of climbing too, I'm much better technical face than cranking, which is more like how that section of corner climbs.

Definitely does NOT get my vote as a good beginner Gunks 5.7 either.

My First 5.7 was the Strictly From Nowhere/Shockley's Ceiling link-up. Super fun climbing and I recommend it. I will say protecting the crux can be a little tricky and it might not be the best first 5.7... It was exciting. Though I think it is a candidate for sure, especially if you are very comfortable with 5.6 roofs. The hands are good the whole way and the crux is over before you know it. If you want gear beta it is out there and that should help you stay safe.

I recommend V-3 or Limelight as a first 5.7 lead. I felt V-3 protected well at the crux sections (and throughout), and the movement is very interesting.

When you are ready Arrow is a 5.8 but the hardest non bolt protected move is only solid 5.7, maybe not best climb to break into the 7/8 range with, but certainly an 8 that can be done before you are through with your tick list of 7s.

Strictly from Nowhere is nice because there's only a few 5.7 moves and it's pretty straightforward if the leader has a lot of experience with 5.6 roofs. But the protection at the crux is a little questionable and I've heard several stories of people getting messed up when they take a long fall in the corner. The two times I led it, I slotted a #0.4 C4 into the first crack in the roof in such a way that it was acting as both an active and passive piece. What do others do there?

A nice, well-protected 7 I led recently was Boldina (name in the Gunks app). It follows a crack up the corner just left of Boldville. However, I'm not sure what "Boldina" is in the Williams guidebook. Is it Lady's Lament?

I agree that 5.7 is a kinda funky grade, with many of the 5.7's being 5.8 in other areas and the protection on some not being great to boot.

In my opinion, for breaking in to 5.7 (these range from 5.6+ to 5.8-)

Trapps

Fancy Idiot
Double Chin
Big Chimney (5.5R)
Maria
Bloody Bush
Snooky's Return
V3
Cakewalk
Wisecrack
Limelight
Arrow
CCK
High E
Boldina
Shit Creek

Near Trapps
Le Plie
Te Dum
Alphonse
Land of the Giants
Slab Shtick P1
Outsider

Couldn't you just have them lead some 5.10s at any other crag? That would get them ready for Gunks 5.7.

It is an insult to the 1st accent party's vision and climbing domination,
The Now 'fixed? Land Of The Giants Now given a 5.7 grade and starts
at the start of Gelsa, but not traversing, staying right
Going straight up at the small corner ,(crux0
Then step up a perfect vertical crack that sows up to the new chains.
( I believe this is the belay for FAT CITY?)

Also I see that Big Chimney(5.5r) is mentioned. "Miss Baley's"
The continuation up a the face inside the chimney Is COOL literally
the temperature difference can cause condensation to form on hot gear.
The less than vertical face climbing is protected, the big corner- overhang takes bigger cams.
Climbers can stop on the dirty ledge below, the corner, belay, or, bail or finish on BABY.

Bob Johnson wrote:The two times I led it, I slotted a #0.4 C4 into the first crack in the roof in such a way that it was acting as both an active and passive piece. What do others do there?

I've only led it once but recall a (small) piece, green alien(?), in the small vertical crack at what must be the crux and then plugging a couple larger pieces under the roof (recall a C4 #1). The move right from under the roof isn't terribly hard, assuming you've styled the remainder of the pitch and aren't pumped out. If you pop there, though, you will pendulum swing back into the wall/corner under the roof. It's a rather tough, memorable, but enjoyable section of stout moderate climbing. It epitomizes what the Gunks are all about - moderates that make you think and work.

Strictly from nowhere and p2 of limelight are the two suggestions I've given to people. The first epitomizes Gunks moderates to me: good holds, good gear, couple funky moves and exposure, but all round a great finish. Limelight feels easier than strictly, but the pitch is so fun and you get a nice finish with a great gear throughout and a handful of quality routes around you. The third one I'd recommend is classic, but you have to be comfortable with pins and slightly less frequent gear than either of the other two

I hear thin slabs direct is good...

chris_vultaggio wrote:I hear thin slabs direct is good...

Haha! I still haven't led that one. It's gotta be easier than the hand traverse on Directissima, right?

Haha. It's way easier than Directissima but still pretty nasty for 5.7, especially if you don't find the feet, and very tempting to just run it out and risk a pendulum.

Lots of good suggestions here. I think if anyone fails to protect Strictly's well, it is because you have to place the gear while you are in an overhanging position, not because there is "tricky" gear. There is an obvious downward-facing slot at the start of the difficulties and then several horizontals in which you can place a variety of cams before you exit.

SethG wrote:Lots of good suggestions here. I think if anyone fails to protect Strictly's well, it is because you have to place the gear while you are in an overhanging position, not because there is "tricky" gear. There is an obvious downward-facing slot at the start of the difficulties and then several horizontals in which you can place a variety of cams before you exit.

Well said, and knowing when you're tiring and should hang is also part of climbing. It's sometimes safer to hang/rest and ruin the onsight than it is to push on and potentially pump-out/fall and get injured when too far above your last piece. This might be an important side discussion for OP's friend(s) who are working through the grades. I think we've all been guilty of climbing through moves, skipping pro because we were tired. Being able to plug gear when tired is a part of the climbing skillset. And generally the harder grades are more physically demanding placing gear.

Bob Johnson wrote:Strictly from Nowhere is nice because there's only a few 5.7 moves and it's pretty straightforward if the leader has a lot of experience with 5.6 roofs. But the protection at the crux is a little questionable and I've heard several stories of people getting messed up when they take a long fall in the corner. The two times I led it, I slotted a #0.4 C4 into the first crack in the roof in such a way that it was acting as both an active and passive piece. What do others do there? A nice, well-protected 7 I led recently was Boldina (name in the Gunks app). It follows a crack up the corner just left of Boldville. However, I'm not sure what "Boldina" is in the Williams guidebook. Is it Lady's Lament?

Boldina is a linkup of the traditional first pitch of Filipina (easy 5.7) and the second pitch of Bold-ville (fun 5.6). The app directs the user to start with the traditional start of The Nose in its version of Filipina.