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a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa
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Land of The Giants 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Jeff Greunberg and Scott Franklin, 1985
Page Views: 1,671
Submitted By: Benjaminadk on Oct 10, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Description 

If no one is climbing Gelsa, definitely take the opportunity to get on this route -- it has a lot of pleasant climbing in 30m.

Start up Gelsa and instead of traversing left at the piton(s) 20' up, head straight up over a bulge at a right-leaning crack. Keep following the crack (carefully at first, there are some hollow blocks) up to an open book under orange rock, then step right onto a prominent nose. Climb up the crack above, then look for the bolted anchor on your right.

Location 

Start as for Gelsa.

Protection 

Gear is good. There is lots of gear in the fingers range, and a couple of pitons. There is a bolt anchor at the top (one 60m rope will do).


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By Curt Dvonch
Sep 8, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

There is a big move to get past the thin crack above the piton. The lack of feet makes it difficult for anyone under 6' tall. Those 6' and taller will still find it spicy.
By kenr
May 29, 2014

Climbed it yesterday, enjoyed it.
I'm much less than 6 feet tall, and just above the old piton did seem like the hardest move. But I did not find it to be a "big" move -- rather it took some clever footwork and balance. I'm sure that there's some human body height+reach below which the move is much harder, but I don't think 6 feet tall is where the divider comes.
By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 24, 2014

I am 5'2" and lead this today. I think if you try and climb the flake there would be a BIG move. If you traverse right at the bottom of the flake and climb the face, there are plenty of holds all reasonably spaced. I enjoyed the moves up the corner above, look around and you can find a really easy way to ascend that corner. Anchor is up above and way to the right.

Climbed on doubles, 60M. Made it back to the ground with rope to spare.
By Dom R
From: Estes Park, Colorado
Nov 24, 2014

Really cool climbing in the corner up high. Kind of thuggish at the crack, i.e., poor feet with good hands. If only the roofs above were safer, it would make for another classic.
By MojoMonkey
Jun 27, 2016

Great long pitch - only negative for me was the couple sections of loose rock. I think I remember a few spots of looser stuff, but mainly remember the couple of larger blocks maybe 30' from the top. Nice chance to get a close-up view of the tiered roof above!
By JSH
Administrator
Sep 26, 2016

I can see where the move at the initial crack would be much easier with a 6' reach, but one thrutchy-ish move with my reach (5'4") got it done.