training tips for a big alpine objective.

My friend and I are going to be attempting a 1 day ascent of the Complete North Ridge of Mount Stuart in August. I'm 8 weeks out and wanting some feedback or tips for training.

I have never really climbed hard just mostly 5.8 trad and under but sorta quit real climbing the last several years in favor of trail running & soloing easy routes after moving to Colorado 5 years ago. I ran some decent times up to 50 mile ultra distance and I'm very comfortable soloing 5.4 in the mountains in running shoes. But my fitness went to sh*+ 2 years ago after the birth of my first daughter and a heavier workload--not a good excuse I know. I also packed on about 20 extra pounds.

I'm eight weeks out from the climb and have been gradually getting into shape for the past 5 weeks. My schedule has mostly been trail running/hiking 3x a week and climbing outside 2-3x a week in the mornings before work. I'm confident I'll regain my aerobic fitness by then but I'm just now starting to get comfortable leading 5.8 trad again and and still need to drop at least 15 more pounds. I haven't done very much strength/core training but maybe once each week. I really want to be strong enough to lead any of the pitches on the CNR quickly and I'm trying to figure out how I need to structure the last 8 weeks.

Should i add hangboarding on my climbing day? Would redpointing sport routes be good to get stronger? Should I add any strength training or would it be futile this close to the climb? Any thoughts an advice would be much appreciated.

I've only done the Upper North Ridge and not car to car, and we pitched it out, but...

I'd suggest you and your partner simul-climb the easier sections and know how to do it efficiently and safely.

Read as much as you can about the route so you know what to expect.

Some of your training should include carrying a pack uphill, i.e., hiking with a load uphill.

That's a big objective and I hope you have fun.

If you lead the Great Gendarme, it's 5.9 OW. (I think it can be bypassed on easier, but sketchier climbing, but not sure about that)

The bulk of the north ridge is 4 to mid 5. It's really only short sections that are harder and provided you know how to jam neither of the laybacks are that pumpy (bunch of no hand rests on the gendarme).

You need to worry more about the endurance of your legs than your grip. Remember the approach is LONG with lots of elevation change. I wouldn't hangboard or project sport routes. If you're pressed for time and want a core work out bouldering caves at the gym *with your feet on the wall* is nice, but if you're aiming to do the route with LIGHT packs you won't need as much core strength.

To do the route fast the key is going to be in your route finding, ability to simul comfortably with your partner, placing pro quickly, and being fast at belay transitions. I would just focus on going out with your partner and getting dialed on some real moderate climbs.

I'm assuming you plan to camp, do the route and descend in a day then come back to camp? Or are you trying to go c2c?

FrankPS wrote:If you lead the Great Gendarme, it's 5.9 OW. (I think it can be bypassed on easier, but sketchier climbing, but not sure about that)

It's not an offwidth if you grab a dyneema jug for two moves ;)
The fixed 4 was still up there last August and I can confirm it still took body weight (no lead fall).

Thanks Frank, I'll make sure I do some training with the pack.

Nick, we're planing on C2C from Cle Elum side. My partner got stormed off at the notch attempting the CNR last year and they had a lot heavier packs. Our packs should be well under under 20 lbs. I'm very confident on exposed 5 easy climbing. My partner has been telling me that it's more about endurance than technical climbing. thanks for the beta on the fixed cam!

I'd start adding in some weighted pack training for your strength training. One of your trail running/hiking days can be used for this. I'd start with 25lbs or so, and 300m elevation gain, and gradually increase weight and/or elevation gain. Take a rest day the next day.

Awesome, make sure you have batteries for your headlamp :) Great spots on soft dirt to take a nap down by the creek before you head over longs also.

The crux of the route in August might actually be water. Once you're on route plan on having to get over the top to refill. You *may* be able to find some snow patch near the notch, but last year that required a down climb all the way to the glacier. On a positive note we had a decent snow year, coverage near the summit was great in March. So I'm sure you'll find some patches of melting snow on your way to the Cascadian.

It's easy to get suckered into a less - than - optimal descent couloir by bearing too far skiers' left when descending. Descent via this way is possible just kinda crappy and on thinner trail. It would double the suckage to do in the dark. So don't assume the Cascadian is a gimme. It's dry / dusty and easy to loose the footpath.

One of the best threads on the subject:

mountainproject.com/v/new-a…

Read through some of it and reference the materials linked in it. It covers a lot of stuff i had never thought of before. Excellent thread