Best multi pitch hand cracks
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Cave crack, enchanted rock is pretty awesome and gold for the flat Texas area. Sorry is not multi |
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Igor Unchained in the Needles. |
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Direct South Ridge
on Notchtop in Rocky Mountain National Park has a pretty long stretch of good hands. |
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https://www.mountainproject.com/v/mithril-dihedral/105802833 |
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Sons of Yesterday. Last 3 pitches are incredible hand jams. The party in front of us linked the last 2 pitches which would make for and even more amazing experience but definitely run out! |
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Positive vibrations on the hulk. Endless perfect jamming. |
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The Third Pillar of Dana |
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+1 for Igor |
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docsavage wrote:Jake wander - I've always been partial to this hand crack on a 9 pitch route my partners & I put up in the Wind Rivers nearly 4 decades ago ... Pipeline - P5 The bad news is, it's about 12 miles in from Dickinson Park (or a day hike down from the Cirque of the Towers, if that's where you happen to be) ... the good news is, you're very like to cop the 3rd ascent, or 2nd free ascent overall. If Sunshine Crack is on your list, this one is only a little bigger investment getting to ... the FFA party concurs the crux is P1 ... after that comes a series of crack systems going from fingers to hands to layback, finally to the scenic cruise that is P5 (top part shown in the photo). Why am I promoting this route? Well, mainly because it has languished in obscurity for nearly 38 years ... I could say this was because of the scarcity of forums to document it at the time (basically the AAJ & Climbing). But the truth is, we never tried. Being a group of unknown climbers from New Mexico, we weren't sure the route would be taken seriously. Call this an effort to rectify that oversight ... As compared with some of the other hand cracks mentioned here - Reed's Direct or Moby Dick or Grack Center - it stacks up quite favorably. Furthermore, though P5 is only one out of 9, I can honestly say there is not a bad pitch on the route. Throw in the other lines in the area still awaiting 2nd ascents, not to mention some prospective 1st ascents, think the area rewards the effort getting to ... & I would personally love to see them gain wider attention ... I need to check this out. |
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Central Pillar of Frenzy in the Valley |



