First time to Yosemite.... build my ticklist?

So I'm doing it. Finally. Making the pilgrimage to the start of it all... Problem is, I'm going blind. I, like every other climber alive, have read about the sheer epic that is climbing in Yosemite. I have climbed up to 16 pitches other places up to 5.10, so multipitch itself isn't the problem (caveat below...). The problem is the sheer volume of potential climbs to put on my ticklist for my short 10-14 day stint in the valley.

This will be roughly June 24-May 2, so Tuolomne may be out of the picture.

What should I climb?

I am comfortable on most granite (City of Rocks, Josh etc.) 5.10 and on Red Rocks 5.11ish when it comes to trad. Chimneying game is meh... offwidth game of the fisty variety is nearly nonexistent. Hand cracks and easy fingers are ideal (plus face...), and I have the most fun on LONG 5.7-5.9.

What should I climb? Parameters are classic multipitch 5.fun, facey sport climbs (scary is okay?), fun single-pitch cragging, and things that get me way high. I must confess, though it pains me to do so, that big wall with any kind of hauling, mandatory bivying, etc. is beyond me and my partners' abilities at this point in time. I also do not climb aid. As a result, all submissions including the above will be sadly punted to a later trip.

Already on the very short list:

East Butt: El Cap
East Butt: Middle Cathedral
Central Pillar of Frenzy
Serenity-Sons
Moby Dick

Mountain Project. I leave this in your hands. Teach, preach, and be kind.

Check out The Surprise at the Five Open Books.

Central Pillar of Frenzy would be a good introduction to the style you seem to be seeking. Five pitches of great finger and hand cracks with a little bit of fist/offwidth thrown in for good measure. Have fun!

The grack was my favorite of the easier stuff. Couldn't believe how much fun I had!

Royal Arches is worth a go and linking to north dome if possible.

You have a good list of classic's. Not sure what guide book you have? There are probably more sport routes than the last time I was there. Some things to keep in mind

- those routes you listed will most likely have massive lines(ensuing clusterf**s)
- The rock/style, avg pitch length, and burl factor for the grade will likely be an eye opener your first time there. Ease into it.
- Easier/multi-pitch lines will likely have some wide on it. Watch out for the 5.8 grade on multi-pitch lines ;-)
- Royal Arches is pretty lame....your trip is too short dink with that route

I would focus more on just climbing, getting used to the place and see where your chips fall on your long route goals. Pick some crags that will allow 'plan B and C' options. Reeds,ARCH, etc. Same applies for long routes. Most of the plan B routes are every bit as good as the 'classics'.

Have fun!

Nutcracker and for some adventure with a heinous approach (keeps the crowds away) higher cathedral spire.

Awesome tick list! I wouldn't be too concerned about the "massive lines" comment. Get out of bed early, and you have a good chance of being first on the route or hopefully only having one party ahead of you. Some of these routes we have had to ourselves, in high season (during the week), others we had to share. Only one time did we get a bit hosed by a gumby team.

Yosemite, mecca of climbing, awesome.

Have a great trip. Report back. Wally

Super Slide has some good hand crack.

I liked Goodrich Pinnacle, some crack, slab crux and easy chimney.

Moby Dick and Sacherer Cracker are both long single pitch climbs at El Cap base; good for various crack sizes.

For a fun big day, I highly recommend climbing Royal Arches to Crest Jewel. Start early and simul as much as possible on Royal Arches, and don't be shy about passing parties. Crest Jewel is fun slab climbing, entirely bolted. May be snowy up high-- check conditions first.

Check out Five Open Books. I haven't done Commitment yet, but it's up there on my ticklist. I really enjoyed doing the Caverns then linking it with Selaginella. Next time I go back I'm going to add a third link with Aqua Via.

I guess you can do Moby Dick if you're already at the base of the Captain to do Sacherer Cracker, otherwise, I think there's lots of other stuff to do. Lots of good easier climbs too mind you:

Snake Dike, 5.7
The Nutcracker, 5.8
Harry Daley Route, 5.8
Bishop's Terrace, 5.8

Don't overlook other 1 or 2 pitch climbs like:
The Jamcrack, 5.9
New Diversions, 5.9
Knob Job, .10b

Don't miss the Cookie:
Outer Limits, .10c
Bev's Tower (.10a) to Wheat Thin, .10c
Catchy, .10d

If your face chops are honed try (and some of these are big ifs):
Freewheelin', 10c
Quicksilver, 5.9
Paradise Lost, .10a
Stoner's Highway, .10c

Enjoy.

Arrowhead spire to arrowhead arete is a pretty long day , long approach , and pretty stout 5.8+ climbing ...

Skip the crowds of The Grack and do Marginal (right next to it). No crowds end at the same place and an incredible introduction to friction climbing

Sentinel Creek is never crowded and will be in morning shade. Check out Hari-Kari and Yin-Yang. Bring bug spray for the mosquitoes.

Super Slide is awesome. Right next to Serenity-Sons and not as hard. Also in the area is Peruvian Flake. Not exactly classic or long, but fun.

Munginella, Selaginella and Commitment are all good at Open Books area. Expect people and loads of fun.

Ditto on what was said about the Higher Cathedral and the approach/crowds. The views are great from over there. And ditto on Nutcracker —yes there will be crowds, but its a great route.

East Butt of Middle Cathedral is worth it even if there are people, you can pass easily at the 50 crowded variation, and I recommend the rap descent rather than the walk off.

Mr. Natural at Glacier Point

Reed's Pinnacle has many great routes but faces south, so might be too hot:
Lunatic Fringe, Stone Groove, Reed's Direct, etc

Have fun!

Ever thought about doing a big wall? It seems like with your experience, doing a grade V would be a cool adventure for you to consider.

Craig Quincy wrote:Ever thought about doing a big wall? It seems like with your experience, doing a grade V would be a cool adventure for you to consider.

Any suggestions? Aid is kinda out of the picture so I'm limited to long free climbs. Are you thinking like Royal Arches?

Thanks so much to everyone for all the suggestions! This is going to be an epic trip. Mucho excitement at this point.

Like Carquinez said, Grack Marginal is an excellent friction climb. Angel's Approach is another excellent friction route. Dr. Feel Good, Mr. Natural, Son of Sam and Lonely Dancer are a few more excellent routes on the Apron.

Bishop's Terrace is an excellent 5.8 hand crack in the Church Bowl area.

NE Buttress of Higher Cathedral and Braille Book are two excellent climbs on Higher Cathedral Rock; the Regular Route on Higher Cathedral Spire is a good plan B route if either of those are too crowded. The approach for any of those is pretty stiff, though.

DNB on Middle Cathedral is another excellent long route.

I was suggesting aid climbing. That's one of the unique adventures to be had in Yosemite. South Face of Washington column is a classic place to start after you get your systems sorted out.

Aid (walls, really) is great, but I think it's only worth doing if 1) you have the time to get your system dialed, 2) if you have the proper gear, and 3) you have a competent partner. Oddly, I haven't done the South Face of the Column (though I helped a buddy fix to Lunch Ledge) but you're going to need aiders, jumars, daisies, etc. Not what you'd ordinarily have on your free rack. Also, if you're going to bivy, you need a haul bag, haul line, pulley, etc. It doesn't sound like he's going to be there that long (and may be already?). A good thing to try in the future, but if he's got a week and it's his first time, his biggest chore will be figuring out which of his many options to climb.