The Devils Lake top rope cluster Fu&k thread...

I looked at the picture a few times earlier. I assume that's the climbing rope.

Here's my reasoning:

1. They doubled up opposing lockers for the rope to run thru on the webbing tied to both trees. I'm figuring a guy who does that isn't going to have a single point of failure on the static line

2. Why would the ends of the static rope be down at the master point?

3. The rope when I zoom in looks more like a climbing rope....

T Roper that's a bit unrealistic. With wider webbing, the damage is minimal and they make super solid anchors when rigged correctly. What kills trees is rapping off of them and pulling the rope.

After the Gunks accident I proposed some free anchor clinics once a month however there were no takers. I think it would be cool to have a group of guides or those who have gone through an AMGA, PCIA, OR PCGI courses to get together and organize something similar to what they are doing with the Saturday night live program. A 3-4 hr anchor principles/best practices clinic would be enough to at least if anything else let folks understand what they don't know... Anyone?

jon jugenheimer wrote:Nick???? Was that the climbing rope?!?!?! WE NEED TO KNOW!!! I can't finish my Thursday until I know!

Yes, that rope was a dynamic climbing rope. I looked over the cliff to see what was happening and if I could see the climbers, and both strands went all the way down.

Ted Pinson wrote:T Roper that's a bit unrealistic. With wider webbing, the damage is minimal and they make super solid anchors when rigged correctly. What kills trees is rapping off of them and pulling the rope.

Even with webbing there is minimal wear every single time the webbing gets pulled at the end of the day as well as the whole root system around the tree gets trampled, the plants around the tree holding the top soil in place get killed and erosion continues.

I'd go as far to say that these free clinics are also drumming up $business$ for the guides involved. If these were clinics teaching people how to TR safely off of bolt anchors or how to sling boulders I'd shut the fuck up. ;)

Or, we could save the trees/flora AND negate the need of this thread by simply lifting the bolting ban for anchors...*bursts into flames*

Nick, holy crap...that is so much worse than I thought. I can't imagine that was a pleasant experience to belay through that monster...the drag must have been unbelievable.

T-Roper: the Gunks does have bolted anchors on a lot of climbs, though I'm not sure about the designated toproping areas...

Ted Pinson wrote: T-Roper: the Gunks does have bolted anchors on a lot of climbs, though I'm not sure about the designated toproping areas...

pretty much they are mostly bolted for rapping. its a start I guess.

Dylan B. wrote:DL's cliff line is a wasteland in regards to the local flora, partially due to climbers building anchors, partially just due to huge amounts of traffic from all user groups. While it certainly would be beneficial to try to encourage people to avoid using the trees and opt for a light rack of gear instead, realistically I'm not sure how much of a difference can be made. I like the idea of clinics, and if I still lived there I would happily participate. I think in order to reach as broad an audience as possible, it would be a good idea to work with CMC and Hoofers. The DL climbers are so disparate, it will be hard to really get to a critical mass without reaching out to organizations such as these.

the other user groups dont tend to trample all around the base of every tree on top of the cliff.

T Roper wrote: Even with webbing there is minimal wear every single time the webbing gets pulled at the end of the day as well as the whole root system around the tree gets trampled, the plants around the tree holding the top soil in place get killed and erosion continues. I'd go as far to say that these free clinics are also drumming up $business$ for the guides involved. If these were clinics teaching people how to TR safely off of bolt anchors or how to sling boulders I'd shut the fuck up. ;)

I don't really know what they were doing (climbing vs. rappelling). There was gear all over the place (backpacks, slings, etc.) and there was a couple climbers on Celebration. I was hiking with my boys (2 and 5 y.o.), so I had other risk management concerns. They sat still for 2 minutes, I took in the scene, then caught up with them as they took off down the trail.

you know what i like about this thread? jacked up anchors and DL locals shooting the shit. all the knobs in this thread could be slung to make one jacked up anchor.

you know what i don't like about this thread? derailment by east/west/south/north coast know it-alls about DL climbing/useage ethics.

let us midwesterners post our jacked up anchors and laugh about it without a 'we are holier than thou' comment thread for 3 pages.

oh this isn't a climbing partner scheduling thread either. unless you want to climb with me on april 1st 2017.

powhound84 wrote: Oh great god of what shall and shall not be spoken of on MP threads, please forgive us. C'mon dude, are you new here?

yah bra, when can you climb next?

And yet, probably one of the safer anchors on the East Rampart...

T Roper wrote: the other user groups dont tend to trample all around the base of every tree on top of the cliff.

Compare the top of the East Rampart, where there is a trail, to the top of Railroad/Birthday/Horse.

To me it is striking how "TR bolts" is a solution in search of a rationale: usually people usually suggest them for "safety" or "less impact", when what they mean is "convenience".

Mike, did you misspell "noobs" as "knobs"?? As in "sling a bunch of ..."

Hello! We are re-starting Saturday Night Live. This series of clinics began in the spring of 2012 after the tragic death of Stephanie Prezant and are dedicated to her.

The clinics are free and happen in the Uberfall area of the Gunks and begin at 5:30 pm. They'll be given by AMGA certified instructors and guides. Here are the dates for this this spring;

April 16 and 30, May 14 and 28.

The clinic on the 16th will be given by internationally certified guides Geoff Unger and Silas Rossi with the assistance of a group of AMGA Rock Guide Course students. Don't miss this opportunity to learn from the best!

Clinic topics;

1. Rock Protection/Anchor building
2.Belaying techniques including belaying the leader
And
3. belaying the second directly from the anchor/releasing a blocked plate.

Meet as always in the Uberfall area of the Trapps near Ken's Crack at 5:30 pm.

Please leave a note here or email to joevitti@hvc.rr.com to RSVP.

Although it doesn't say so specifically, between anchor building and belay instruction it could amount to learning to toprope. Safely.

Might even learn how to use gear properly.

Doug Hemken wrote: Compare the top of the East Rampart, where there is a trail, to the top of Railroad/Birthday/Horse. To me it is striking how "TR bolts" is a solution in search of a rationale: usually people usually suggest them for "safety" or "less impact", when what they mean is "convenience". Mike, did you misspell "noobs" as "knobs"?? As in "sling a bunch of ..."

To many people not killing cliff top trees for tr sessions is convenience, you are correct.

Who else is loading their chalk bag full of hand warmers this weekend n going climbing? High 30s low 40s I'm there feel free to take photos of my bomber anchors to set an example for this b*tch

This is way too scary, first and last time looking at this thread of horror.

Yesterday was amazing almost too perfect at the lake, wanted to stay for Sunday but we headed home exhausted.

Doug Hemken wrote: Compare the top of the East Rampart, where there is a trail, to the top of Railroad/Birthday/Horse. To me it is striking how "TR bolts" is a solution in search of a rationale: usually people usually suggest them for "safety" or "less impact", when what they mean is "convenience". Mike, did you misspell "noobs" as "knobs"?? As in "sling a bunch of ..."

finally someone acknowledged my pun.

Bolts would be nice, just for the convenience factor and speed with getting people on and off of climbs faster but However the Rock is super beautiful