Ring finger flexor strain / tendonitis

Just looking for some advice if anybody has good treatment for ring finger flexor pain. I really don't think there was a tramatic injury, I actually first noticed it after doing a session hanging (open grip three fingers) when I was holding a 15 lbs dumbbell, doing a tricep exercise. Intially, it shot pain so bad, I almost dropped the dumbell. After two days passed, I had a weird trigger finger effect on that finger. I was able to stretch and massage the trigger finger symptoms out but I still have twinges of pain shoot through the finger and palm when moving (and typing now). Any advice on what has worked for others would be appreciated!

My ring finger on the other hand is beginning to show initial symptoms suggesting the same biomechanical issue. I'll be trying to climb (at J-Tree) and see how it goes. It doesn't seem like I need to fully rest the finger but I definitely need a serious treatment plan before it gets worse. Besides stretching and massaging, any other ideas?

Did you have any luck with treating the strain? I have the exact same injury as a result of hang boarding. Ive done ice and hot baths daily. I also got a small nerf basketball to squeeze on the way to and from work. My pt gave me these and they actually helped too

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If you're finger improved I'd like to hear what you ended up doing. It took me awhile to find info for this kind of injury. I mainly just took it easy for awhile and slowly built back up to preinjury strength.

You are describing "trauma". Self-imposed, but trauma nonetheless.

Given what you are describing, would see hand specialist to make sure nothing is reversible.

The situation is getting better but still interferes with climbing a little and causes occasional slight to mild pain. I quit hang-boarding completely and do some massaging; both of which helped. I also have cut the amount of shoulder PT I do (I use dumbbells) and reverse wrist curls since holding dumbbells over 10 lbs seems to aggravate matters more than climbing. It helps that most of the climbing I do is trad and cracks (and I usually don't push my limits) but I have not reduced my climbing efforts much. If I try to crimp, or especially pinch, on difficult terrain, the ring flexor issues will flare up. After a couple days rest, I'm good to climb again. Warming up the fingers by going through their entire motion is very important before climbing.

Brandon Gottung wrote:The situation is getting better but still interferes with climbing a little and causes occasional slight to mild pain. I quit hang-boarding completely and do some massaging; both of which helped. I also have cut the amount of shoulder PT I do (I use dumbbells) and reverse wrist curls since holding dumbbells over 10 lbs seems to aggravate matters more than climbing. It helps that most of the climbing I do is trad and cracks (and I usually don't push my limits) but I have not reduced my climbing efforts much. If I try to crimp, or especially pinch, on difficult terrain, the ring flexor issues will flare up. After a couple days rest, I'm good to climb again. Warming up the fingers by going through their entire motion is very important before climbing.

What sort of finger warm ups do you do?

It's been hard for me to figure out if I'm pushing myself towards becoming more injured or if some of the dull pains I'm feeling are just part of the recovery process.

The finger warmups I do, I think, are called finger rolls.

Edit: Finger tendon glides. see dpmclimbing.com/articles/vi…

Purely anecdotal, homebrewed therapy, but I had very similar issues and this worked for me, and it probably can't hurt.

You might try resting on the climbing for a few weeks and working your extensors. Pick up a variety of rubber bands so you can figure out which thickness and diameters work well, or they make therapy tools called powerfingers just for this. With the band on the outside of your fingernails, open your hand and articulate all the finger joints outward, basically working the opposite muscle group as what you use gripping. I do 10-20 reps or until I feel a gentle pump then switch hands, back and forth for a few sets. Start with this, gradually incorporate doing pairs or individual fingers opposed with the thumb. Do this maybe every other day.

Before my hands felt as if they were closing up like claws, and now they feel much more balanced, and maybe even stronger. I now use the bands 1-2 times per week for maintenance, rest adequately between climbing sessions, and am pain free. Good luck!

Have you tried taping it? This may help with supporting your tendon. Taping flexor tendons