Projecting Big Wall Routes
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I understanding the logistics of projecting big wall routes would be circumstantial. But I'm looking for some general practice advice. I'm looking at dropping into the Hallucinogen Wall this spring in the Black Canyon and working the hard pitches look possible to me. The top two pitches are moderate with 8 pitches of 5.12 - 5.13 climbing underneath to a bivy ledge at the top of pitch 6. This is the section I want fixed ropes on (pitch 6 - pitch 14). |
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You are asking beginner questions which is surprising for someone wanting to free 5.13r. I think you lack a ton of multi pitch/ bigwall experience. Hallucinogen is a sorta popular aid line so maybe a week long fix of ropes is too much. Have you tried tague yer time across canyon? Super rad line with good rock and stout cruxes. I dont mean to be discouraging but yer guna die. But hey maybe you can free 13 R in the black and just dont know simple climbing protocol. |
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I have been on Tague Yer Time. I've never had to fix lines to project a route. I wouldn't have much business doing so if the grade was under 5.12+. So I have to "start" some where. I don't have any intentions of freeing the 5.13 pitches if they're R rated. Only the 5.12 pitches. |
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Use to trax devices, i like 2 micro traxs. Static is my preference so i dont get too much stretch when falling, and it seems to feed better. Crush it dawg |
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hmm...that seems like a wise choice. Thank you. |
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Regarding question #3, I'd advise that if you think there is ANY chance that climbers might try to climb the route you are projecting, that you do not leave up fixed lines. This could severely diminish the quality of the experience for those people trying to do a "ground up" ascent, and make the nature of their climbing QUITE a bit more contrived. |
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The proposed bolts to be put in would be two anchors intended for free climbing the route and to eliminate some hanging belays. The other bolt would be at a dangerous 5.12 section to be put in place of an old fixed piece. If the piece was to blow there are supposedly some ledges to hit. |
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Bolt away, even to replace those pesky fixed pieces that may (not) hold a fall, even though The Black if full of pitches like that. And hell, bolt wherever you feel like it, just don't bitch and moan when your bolt gets chopped and filled by your betters. |
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I'll add a vote for the upgrades. I can't see a real ethical problem with upgrading already fixed gear so that it will actually hold. Leaving a suspect copper head in a bolt hole over a ledge just seems ridiculous. |
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Coomer? You died years ago. WTF. |
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Since this is Wilderness and in a National Park, there are rules which affect what you want to do. Here's a link to a pdf of the rules: |
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Tico wrote:Coomer? You died years ago. WTF.replaced by a zombie bot |