How to lower when there are no rap rings or carabiners??

So I haven't done any sport climbing but I am hoping to start soon. So what I'm wondering is what to do when you lead a route and when you get to the anchors and there are no rap rings, carabiners, or chains to thread the rope through so that you can clean the route? Is it ok to thread the rope through the hangers or would that possibly shear the rope?

thanks for your help!

Mitch Redford wrote:So I haven't done any sport climbing but I am hoping to start soon. So what I'm wondering is what to do when you lead a route and when you get to the anchors and there are no rap rings, carabiners, or chains to thread the rope through so that you can clean the route? Is it ok to thread the rope through the hangers or would that possibly shear the rope? thanks for your help!

No, not okay to thread your rope through hangers.

Use the anchor, then, figure out a way to walk off from the top when you're done. Or, leave a couple of carabiners and lower off.

Another option is to pick up a few rapides and rap rings and install were needed.

Snowballs chance in hell that it would shear the rope unless you could feel a really sharp edge. But it does wear down the hanger and it is a little more wear and tear on your rope when you pull it. And you would NEVER top rope a route through hangers.

But, Metolius rap hangers are designed to be rapped from. Check them out so you know what they look like.

You'll need to rappel. It's suboptimal to thread the rope through hangers that aren't designed for rappelling, because it makes it more difficult to pull the rope through and you also risk damaging the rope if the hangers are really rusty/chewed up. However, in a pinch, rappelling off bolt hangers is "OK". This is a good reason to keep some leaver-biners on your rack! As usual, find an experienced local to learn from rather than relying solely on the internet.

leave biners

just carry a few stainless or zink coated quick links. medium duty will be just fine. link 2 together to let the rope run smoothly -

Biners, quick links, or a bit of rope, cordalette, or webbing.

It's absolutely not okay to rappel directly off hangers or glue in bolts with a couple exceptions. It's probably not going to kill you but it's not going to be good for your rope and could be hell pulling. The exceptions are Metollius rap hangers posted above, you'll know they are rap hangers because they're about 5 times as thick and almost twice as big as your standard hanger. The next exception is it is RARELY acceptable to rappel directly off glue-ins that were designed for such purpose depending on the area, 100% of the areas I climb at it is NOT ok to rappel or bail off any glue in. If there aren't chains or rap rings it means someone stole them, or you are expected to top out and use the walk off for descent. This isn't really a problem you are likely to have to deal with, best to leave it to more experienced climbers to decide anchor setups but if you find yourself stuck you can always sacrifice a couple biners.

Nick Henscheid wrote:It's suboptimal to thread the rope through hangers that aren't designed for rappelling, because it makes it more difficult to pull the rope through...

For anyone who says it may be more difficult to pull..... just for shits and giggles, try it for real some time on regular bolt hangers. Thread, rap, and then try to retrieve your rope.

Just make sure you have some way of getting back to that anchor to get your rope back.

yikes

T Roper wrote:yikes

In response to....?

You guys are not addressing the PM's question at all.

"..what to do when you lead a route and when you get to the anchors and there are no rap rings, carabiners, or chains.. Is it ok to thread the rope through the hangers or would that possibly shear the rope? "

The answer is yes. If you have no options and the hangers aren't sharp, go for it. It will not shear the rope.

there is no reason not to leave two biners and rap! never rap through standard hangers

Most routes have anchors for lowering or rappelling if you are meant to do so. Anchors just for belays will not have lowering gear.

Ah screw it, I take back all my advise.

Mitch Redford. Don't go climbing. Your mom was right. It is too dangerous.

Ray Lovestead wrote:You guys are not addressing the PM's question at all. "..what to do when you lead a route and when you get to the anchors and there are no rap rings, carabiners, or chains.. Is it ok to thread the rope through the hangers or would that possibly shear the rope? "

Um, the very first reply fully answered the OP's (not PM) question.

Nick Henscheid wrote:You'll need to rappel. It's suboptimal to thread the rope through hangers that aren't designed for rappelling, because it makes it more difficult to pull the rope through and you also risk damaging the rope if the hangers are really rusty/chewed up. However, in a pinch, rappelling off bolt hangers is "OK". This is a good reason to keep some leaver-biners on your rack! As usual, find an experienced local to learn from rather than relying solely on the internet.

Great answer.

If it is easy enough for you, you could also consider down climbing.

M Sprague wrote:If it is easy enough for you, you could also consider down climbing.

M Sprague wrote:If it is easy enough for you, you could also consider down climbing.

Yes

I would be surprised if there was a single sport route in the world that didn't have some sort of anchor to lower/rappel off of, so this is somewhat a moot discussion. Don't thread the rope through the bolt hangers.