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Lower out line for the nose

Original Post
Lohan · · Rome, GA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 435

I know there are various strategies, but is there a rule of thumb for how long of a lower out line is needed for the nose of El cap? Particularly if lowering out on the king swing? I have heard multiple accounts of people coming up short and taking some nasty swings

JeffL · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 65

I think the accidents with running out of rope tend to occur while shortfixing/speed climbing and only bringing a single rope up the route.

I've haven't hauled the route so I cannot comment on how you might do that. I imagine one lead line and one haul line would be all that you need. Taking the Jardine Traverse simplifies things and is likely faster if you are hauling. But Texas Flake, Boot Flake, and King Swing are super classic.

TheIceManCometh · · Albany, NY · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 621

I climbed the Nose in a party of two and we used a single 60m climbing rope and a 7.5mm haul line. We did the King Swing via a standard pendulum and lower out See Chapter 2 of this Link using just our main line. Prior to the lower out, I tied the haul bag to the middle of its line and held one end while my partner hauled the bag up.

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346

You dont need to lower out on the king swing. You just have your partner lower you and then you start running back and fourth. If the leader skips the belay at Eagle Ledge and keeps climbing to the end of the next pitch, he will be parallel with his belayer and his belayer will have to lower out. However, the belayer typically would use the rope for this, not a separate line.

For lowering out the bags, 50' is typically good enough, and even that is a tad long.

TheIceManCometh · · Albany, NY · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 621

Right. The second lowers out. I thought it was obvious that the leader just gets lowered and then runs back and forth.

Lohan · · Rome, GA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 435

Thanks for the suggestions. However, in the link that was posted referencing "chapter two", it specifically says,

"For the famous King Swing on the Nose, for example, the leader does a long pendulum at the beginning of the pitch, and there is not enough rope for the second to do a proper lower, even if he unties and threads the rope. Here, the second generally uses a separate line for the lower-out."

This would lead me to believe that two ropes (one lead line and one haul line) are not sufficient, which is why I was asking about the need for a separate lower-out line. So, if anyone can clear this up - if I plan on doing the king swing, and climbing until I am at the anchor parallel with the belayer, does the follower need a separate lower out line, and if so, how long should it be?

Marnix · · Amsterdam · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 0

With 60m ropes we used the method outlined here and it was quick and easy:
supertopo.com/climbers-foru…

Jplotz · · Cashmere, WA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 1,335

No lower out line is ever needed on the nose. For the king swing, the old method of leader doing the swing then basically soloing the next pitch until he/she is parallel to the top of the boot is just dumb IMO. People have taken nasty falls into Eagle ledge using this unsafe strategy. The more reasonable and in the end, quicker strategy is this:

1) leader does KS to Eagle Ledge, ties in to anchor and fixes lead rope and sets up haul.
2) second toes haul bag in short and lowers it to EL. Leader hauls bag over to EL and docks it and unties haul line;
3) second then threads haul line to rappel off Boot Flake anchor. Raps as normal down to EL. Leader can pull second over the arête with the lead line still attached to the second.
4) Second ties into EL anchor, pull haul line and continue on with the next pitch, which you can protect from the get go!

This is what it looks like. Tom Evans photo of my friend rapping to Eagle Ledge after I did the KS:

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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