Lower out line for the nose
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I know there are various strategies, but is there a rule of thumb for how long of a lower out line is needed for the nose of El cap? Particularly if lowering out on the king swing? I have heard multiple accounts of people coming up short and taking some nasty swings |
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I think the accidents with running out of rope tend to occur while shortfixing/speed climbing and only bringing a single rope up the route. |
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I climbed the Nose in a party of two and we used a single 60m climbing rope and a 7.5mm haul line. We did the King Swing via a standard pendulum and lower out See Chapter 2 of this Link using just our main line. Prior to the lower out, I tied the haul bag to the middle of its line and held one end while my partner hauled the bag up. |
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You dont need to lower out on the king swing. You just have your partner lower you and then you start running back and fourth. If the leader skips the belay at Eagle Ledge and keeps climbing to the end of the next pitch, he will be parallel with his belayer and his belayer will have to lower out. However, the belayer typically would use the rope for this, not a separate line. |
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Right. The second lowers out. I thought it was obvious that the leader just gets lowered and then runs back and forth. |
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Thanks for the suggestions. However, in the link that was posted referencing "chapter two", it specifically says, |
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With 60m ropes we used the method outlined here and it was quick and easy: |
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No lower out line is ever needed on the nose. For the king swing, the old method of leader doing the swing then basically soloing the next pitch until he/she is parallel to the top of the boot is just dumb IMO. People have taken nasty falls into Eagle ledge using this unsafe strategy. The more reasonable and in the end, quicker strategy is this: |





