UTAH - 2015/16 Ice Season

Climbed the apron on Stairway this morning before work. The two main lines are in. The left one is getting fairly wide (20') and thick (will take medium screws in most places). The upper section of P1 might take screws. It looked pretty thin where it slabs out a bit so it may be leadable if you're willing to run it out there or tie off stubbies. Lower half of White Nightmare looked like it was in when I checked it out from the road. Bridal Veil Left also looked like it was in or pretty close. A few more days of these cold temps and Provo Canyon will be looking pretty darn good.

Bridal Veil L, R and White Nightmare have all been climbed repeatedly since Friday 11/27.
Apron Climbs to the top of pitch one are all fat enough for any screw you care to place. Lots of ice in N. Creek as well for those that don't mind a long walk.

GWI was in ok shape this am although it could be a lot fatter.

Gwi

Gwi

Malan's Falls up in Ogden is coming in pretty nicely. For the bold, it could probably be led right now, but it will still be a few days for the upper pillar to connect and the bottom to fatten up.

Malan's Falls, Ogden, UT 12/1/2015

William Kramer wrote: Big Kitty has been hanging out at Lisa Falls, which the ice at Lisa Falls is not very good, really slushy and open in many places

Is the ice at Lisa Falls ever any good?

Great reports, folks, keep 'em coming!

Upper Bridal Veil
Bridal Veil looked like it was running a lot, didn't check any closer. Most everything else north and south Provo Canyon looked solid or shaping up well. P5? (maybe) pillar on Stairway looks like it touched down, bottom has some good stuff forming, it's definitely the thickest flow I've climbed this season.

Stairway 12/2

Brian in SLC wrote: Is the ice at Lisa Falls ever any good?

Not really, but I try to be optimistic?

GWI is in and in great shape top to bottom. The line has formed. 3 roped parties and 3 soloists before 9 am this morning.

If you're the party that dropped the screw today I have it. PM me.

We were the second party up the GWI this morning, while I was climbing the bulge the party before us dropped a screw. So that screw was not mine. However somewhere on the last pitch I had a Grivel 360 12cm (red handle) screw jump ship... I'm not sure where on the last pitch it had decided it had had enough but its out there somewhere. If you find it, I would love to get it back. If you are keeping it- know that it is a rowdy little bugger- in good shape.
Dallen

Last Chance Falls in Logan Canyon as of 12/03/15. The bottom was too thin to protect, but the top was ok. Added some new webbing. Beautiful day! Pray for cold weather!

Last Chance Falls 12/03/15

Lost a glove around Willard Canyon this morning, if you found/find it pm me and I'll compensate you for returning it. They definitely need more snow and colder temps for 'ice' climbing up there, had a couple of melted out sections.

Climbed first pitch of Malans Falls in Ogden today. Better than it looks, but had to pick and choose the way onto the good ice. Some spots were hollow, wet, candled, etc. Most of the route took 13cm screws, but it was a case of protect the good ice and run out the bad ice. Top out was thin but fine. Rock gear needed for the belay and the exit (we used 0.4 to #2).

Second pitch ramps look okay. Third pitch pillar was mostly on the ground when we arrived and the rest of it came dowe quite spectacularly while we were climbing. Not sure how much longer any of it will last with the predicted temps this week.

Derek, Sounds sport! Brad

Derek DeBruin wrote:Climbed first pitch of Malans Falls in Ogden today. Better than it looks, but had to pick and choose the way onto the good ice. Some spots were hollow, wet, candled, etc. Most of the route took 13cm screws, but it was a case of protect the good ice and run out the bad ice. Top out was thin but fine. Rock gear needed for the belay and the exit (we used 0.4 to #2). Second pitch ramps look okay. Third pitch pillar was mostly on the ground when we arrived and the rest of it came dowe quite spectacularly while we were climbing. Not sure how much longer any of it will last with the predicted temps this week.

Sounds like normal conditions. Years ago after we finished the second pitch (with screws melting out as we climbed) and had just rapped back to the ground, it came crashing down. Some hikers showed up in time for the show. My partner and I just laughed.

FWIW we climbed in Provo today a mix of conditions.

Took lil dudes to battle creek today. It's fat enough

battle creek

Hello fellow climbers, I'm an Avalanche Forecaster with the UDOT Avalanche Program. I just wanted to give everyone a heads up that we will be testing our howitzer on 12/7/2015 in Provo Canyon. Be prepared for intermittent road closures from 10:30am to 12:00pm on US 189 between Canyon Glen Park and Vivian Park. We will be shooting into Lost Creek and Slide Canyon. All climbs on the South side of the road (Bridal Veil, Stairway, etc) will be unaffected by the closure. However, terrain on the North side of the highway will be off limits from 12:15am to 12:00pm.

A map of the closed terrain can be seen on the UDOT Avalanche website Here:

UDOT Avalanche Website

You can also sign up for text alerts from UDOTAvy on Twitter.

Thanks for respecting these closures, and safe climbing!

Climbed first two pitches of GWI this last Saturday (12/5/15). Pretty dang hooked out and expect to get wet on the second pitch. Its just gonna go downhill from here. I hope it gets cold soon!

I was supposed to have a buddy let me know how Joe's was...with the temps the past two days I'm guessing not good. It was warm today in the valley and up-canyon outside of SLC, probably 40+ at 9000'. The GWI looked rocky and tomorrow is supposed to be as warm or warmer so hopefully Friday brings cooler temps and a bunch of snow, even if the avy danger rises considerably for a bit.

Here's a GWI photo from Saturday, Dec 5th around 8am.

GWI 12-5-15

Nate Smith's Beehive Ice guidebook is back in stock at the BD Store, for those in need of a copy. (If you don't own it, you need a copy).

Any info on the conditions of Robert's horn?