Opposing draws as an anchor on multi-pitch?

Jorgeson puts himself on a clove hitch to two opposing draws (1m59s). is that a thing? how does he put sasha on belay and does she just go in direct using two more draws when she's at the anchor? i guess it's light and fast if anything ...

youtu.be/VCPUoWV9KBg

Totaly fine. Could belay straight off his harness, or off of another redirected biner. She could go in direct at the anchor or if she's leading the next pitch, he could just tie her off at his belay device.

I typically clove hitch the rope into one anchor and daisy chain into the other.

You clip your belay device to the two draws and belay. Just like using a cordelette or the rope to make an anchor.

How the heck would you clip your belay device to two draws? Anyways, it looks like he's doing a redirect to the other draw at 2:35, pretty standard practice on sport multi...

Ted Pinson wrote:How the heck would you clip your belay device to two draws? Anyways, it looks like he's doing a redirect to the other draw at 2:35, pretty standard practice on sport multi...

I just bring the rope end carabiners together and then clip my belay device to both biners. They should be opposite and opposed.

Dylan Pike wrote: I just bring the rope end carabiners together and then clip my belay device to both biners. They should be opposite and opposed.

right but you're already cloved into those two biners. so you'd need two more opposite and opposed draws to belay ... then two more to put your follower in direct? so at one point, before you've taken your partner off the belay and after you've put her in direct you have 6 draws clipped into two bolts? seems like a fustercluck to me ...

delly84 wrote: right but you're already cloved into those two biners. so you'd need two more opposite and opposed draws to belay ... then two more to put your follower in direct? so at one point, before you've taken your partner off the belay and after you've put her in direct you have 6 draws clipped into two bolts? seems like a fustercluck to me ...

This is what I visualized when s/he said that:

You can put your belay device on the same rope end carabiners that you are tied into. Envision two draws hanging off the bolt, O&P. Clip your rope tie-in to those draws. Now clip your guide-mode locking carabiner on your belay device to those same two carabiners on the draws, so that your belay device and and tether are in the same pair of carabiners. Now you are belaying directly off the anchor in guide-mode with two draws and nothing more.

If you are swapping the next lead, they will not need to go in direct. When they arrive at the anchor, you can tie them off at the device.

Perhaps not how I'd do it, but still only requires two draws and would work fine.

Or for a much short version..read the post below.

delly84 wrote: right but you're already cloved into those two biners. so you'd need two more opposite and opposed draws to belay ... then two more to put your follower in direct? so at one point, before you've taken your partner off the belay and after you've put her in direct you have 6 draws clipped into two bolts? seems like a fustercluck to me ...

You're overthinking it. Just put a fat locker through the masterpoint (the two quickdraw biners) and move on with your day.

Jon H wrote: You're overthinking it. Just put a fat locker through the masterpoint (the two quickdraw biners) and move on with your day.

Metal on metal?!!!!

Jon H wrote: You're overthinking it. Just put a fat locker through the masterpoint (the two quickdraw biners) and move on with your day.

I mean, if it were up to me, i'd just bring some cord that i could masterpoint or equalette and clip a bunch of shit to.

My point is that jorgeson used the two draws and cloved himself into it. looking at the video again it looks like they didn't stop at a belay and instead just stopped mid-route. there is one bolt above the ledge and the next bolt is the first bolt on the route. so he put a biner in the bolt above and extended it with another sling, then used that and the lower bolt to clove into. then he belayed sasha up off of his harness redirected to another draw on the lower bolt. sasha got up and clipped a draw into the redirected draw. then when she's ready to lead she just unclips and goes. he's still belaying off of his harness with the first piece already clipped.

seems convoluted but i guess the advantage is that you're using a minimal amount of gear and it's a pretty fast setup.

I.E. What you would do if you're a pair of world class climbers trying to go as light and fast as possible. ;)

Ted Pinson wrote:I.E. What you would do if you're a pair of world class climbers trying to go as light and fast as possible. ;)

One way is with bunny eared figure 8 (aka double loop figure 8) - only uses two biners and you can get quite fast at tying them.

jason.cre wrote: Metal on metal?!!!!

Locking biner on O&O biners. What's your problem with that?

I hope you're trying to be funny, but you are perpetuating one of the most common - and unfounded - "rules" that too many newbies seem to get exposed to. Chaining plain biners together is to be avoided; other metal-to-metal is FINE.

Ney wrote: One way is with bunny eared figure 8 (aka double loop figure 8) - only uses two biners and you can get quite fast at tying them.

yeah i hadn't thought of that. why not just build the anchor out of the rope because it's clear they didn't stretch that pitch.

edit: agreed with Ney, changed to remove potential misinterpretation for sarcasm.

Gunkiemike wrote: Locking biner on O&O biners. What's your problem with that? I hope you're trying to be funny, but you are perpetuating one of the most common - and unfounded - "rules" that too many newbies seem to get exposed to. Chaining plain biners together is to be avoided; other metal-to-metal is FINE.

agreed

delly84 wrote: yeah, right just build the anchor out of the rope because it's clear they didn't stretch that pitch.

Geesh, my answer was a direct answer to Ted not in context with the video. Sorry for trying to be helpful.

Guideline #1: don't be a jerk

Ney wrote: Geesh, my answer was a direct answer to Ted not in context with the video. Guideline #1: don't be a jerk

sorry Ney, i agree with you. i edited my post to be more clear.

OK, thanks.

If you check out the topo for this route, there is an optional belay to be used while free-climbing. It does not look like there a 2-bolt anchor at that spot as it looks like you normally do not belay there if aiding, but will stop there if free climbing due to rope drag. I guess that is why the anchor is one bolt with the bolt above it?

Since it's the top of the climb and the second will not need the gear for the next pitch I might just do the same thing