The Grand Suggestion

Ive been trying to make it out to the Grand Teton the last couple years without success. Now I have a baby on the way in February so I shorter trip is all I can hope to muster up come climbing season 2016.

Ive read through all the route descriptions numerous times but am having difficulty deciding on a route. If my lady and are both able to go on this trip, I will take her up the OS as shes not a super experienced climber.

I am looking for peoples' advice on which technical route to do if I end up going with a partner. Ideally someone who has done a few routes on the mountain. My current considerations are the following:

Full exum
Upper exum
North Ridge

It seems like the North Ridge is the obvious choice but Ive never been on the Grand. I also question the difficulty on a mountain I have never been to. Im no rock star (pun intended) and want to enjoy the climb, although I have done plenty of routes in this range, nothing at this altitude for this length.

Any recommendations or words of advice are much appreciated. Thanks!

A winter attempt?

I did the upper exum over the summer and it was quite pleasant. While it was nice, I would aim for the full next time. I don't have any regrets though. In the winter though? I think there is another thread about the GT in the winter..

Sorry, I should clarify. Not winter. Summer 2016.

During the summer the Upper Exum gets clogged up with guided and unguided climbers. Though JHMG uses the route, the Petzold is a better choice for a south side route. The North Ridge is a good route but getting to it can be problematic. The Valhalla traverse can be a nightmare of ice and loose rock. Coming up the Teton Glacier has less loose rock but then most will take crampons and an axe. Regarding the OS, though easy climbing, it too can be problematic for inexperienced climbers due the initial exposure as well as ice in the chimneys and on some ledges. Just remember all you need is one day, a bacon sandwich, and an extra pair of trousers. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=goVrUOCaffo 

Allen Sanderson wrote:During the summer the Upper Exum gets clogged up with guided and unguided climbers. Though JHMG uses the route, the Petzold is a better choice for a south side route.

From the top of petzoldt ridge, a short rappel and 3rd class scramble puts one on the upper exum (unless continuing up the ford couloir) so recommending petzoldt as a way to bypass the crowds on upper exum makes no sense.

to the OP, depends on whether your priority is the quality/difficulty of the climb or the route in the best condition.

upper exum can easily be soloed/simuled by competent climbers and snow/ice quickly melts off.
lower exum adds more quality & harder climbing but makes for a longer day.
north ridge is harder to access and frequently holds snow and ice.

If you only have a short window of opportunity, the likelihood of finding good (mostly dry) conditions on the N ridge is low. I would recommend full exum if you want a couple extra pitches of 5.7 or just upper exum if you want a shorter day.

Andrew Mayer wrote: From the top of petzoldt ridge, a short rappel and 3rd class scramble puts one on the upper exum (unless continuing up the ford couloir) so recommending petzoldt as a way to bypass the crowds on upper exum makes no sense. to the OP, depends on whether your priority is the quality/difficulty of the climb or the route in the best condition. upper exum can easily be soloed/simuled by competent climbers and snow/ice quickly melts off. lower exum adds more quality & harder climbing but makes for a longer day. north ridge is harder to access and frequently holds snow and ice. If you only have a short window of opportunity, the likelihood of finding good (mostly dry) conditions on the N ridge is low. I would recommend full exum if you want a couple extra pitches of 5.7 or just upper exum if you want a shorter day.

Thanks guys, this is exactly the kind of info I am looking for.

Yeah I second all the above.

One thing to add is that it is pretty easy to get around folks on upper exum. When we did the ridge it was an absolute party of 11 people. It was really fun, huge ledges to hang out on and many variations to skip people.

I would suggest gaining the ridge via the Petzl which one of the best moderate climbs of the range and avoids the crowds too. The Petzl combination is long but very mellow and cool and at times exposed. And there is a window pitch too!

Personally, I have mostly avoided the Owen spalding as a result of the chaos from how crowded that route gets. Another thing to be aware of that is that a sixty meter rope will work if thrown right direction to get off the mountain. I like to use the 50m rope raps that are further west'ish than the standard rap. The standard rap is normally clogged with guides and people.

Have fun!

Andrew Mayer wrote: From the top of petzoldt ridge, a short rappel and 3rd class scramble puts one on the upper exum (unless continuing up the ford couloir) so recommending petzoldt as a way to bypass the crowds on upper exum makes no sense.

I was suggesting the original Petzold Ridge which continues up the Buckingham Buttress and has some good climbing on it. That said doing the Petzold to Upper Exum makes for a great outing.

Allen Sanderson wrote: I was suggesting the original Petzold Ridge which continues up the Buckingham Buttress and has some good climbing on it. That said doing the Petzold to Upper Exum makes for a great outing.

Oh gotcha, I've only done petzoldt to upper exum and remember the guidebook mentioning petzoldt to ford couloir as another option.

Jake wander wrote:Ive been trying to make it out to the Grand Teton the last couple years without success. Now I have a baby on the way in February so I shorter trip is all I can hope to muster up come climbing season 2016. Ive read through all the route descriptions numerous times but am having difficulty deciding on a route. If my lady and are both able to go on this trip, I will take her up the OS as shes not a super experienced climber. I am looking for peoples' advice on which technical route to do if I end up going with a partner. Ideally someone who has done a few routes on the mountain. My current considerations are the following: Full exum Upper exum North Ridge It seems like the North Ridge is the obvious choice but Ive never been on the Grand. I also question the difficulty on a mountain I have never been to. Im no rock star (pun intended) and want to enjoy the climb, although I have done plenty of routes in this range, nothing at this altitude for this length. Any recommendations or words of advice are much appreciated. Thanks!

I've heard good things about the Petzoltd Ridge.

I can definitely recommend the East Ridge, but it involves some snow climbing.

I think making your way to the North Ridge would be an adventure in itself. Although if you do it, I might recommend the Valhalla Canyon approach and scramble up the back side of the grandstand. Key would be finding the trail up Valhalla canyon. It is on climbers right of the creek, but is very overgrown.

Jake:

I'm a Wyoming Native and I've climbed the Grand around 10 times since the 70's and you have already received good advice. Here's a few general things to remember.

1. Whatever route you do, it's a long, strenuous endeavor when you consider the approach. I've done the Exum ridge in a day and was totally wasted. I missed camping on the moraine and being able to leisurely watch the sunset and sunrise - I like taking 3 days - one for hike in - one for climb - one for hike out. Many people do it in two, but I've heard several parties say they were really tired after the climb and wished they spent an extra day.

With limited time I would rule out North Ridge (Long approach, sometimes difficult getting across Cascade canyon). I think the East ridge is perhaps the longest climb on the Grand - AND it has a really long approach too.

2. It will be CROWDED! The Exum Ridge, Owen Spaulding, and the descent. Slower parties will get in your way and you can't always pass. They may get you in trouble with #3. Start very early and go in the middle of the week.

3. Start your descent no later than 2pm or you may get caught in a thunderstorm. I try to be back to the upper saddle BY two oclock.

My favorite climb of the Grand? Two day trip. Early start on the second day, climbing the Lower Exum. We unroped when we hit the Golden Staircase and free soloed the upper Exum and made the top about 10 am. We spent 3 hours on top and watched a sailplane navigating the range, which included a close flyby and wave from the pilot as he swooped past.

Arlo F Niederer wrote:Jake: I'm a Wyoming Native and I've climbed the Grand around 10 times since the 70's and you have already received good advice. Here's a few general things to remember. 1. Whatever route you do, it's a long, strenuous endeavor when you consider the approach. I've done the Exum ridge in a day and was totally wasted. I missed camping on the moraine and being able to leisurely watch the sunset and sunrise - I like taking 3 days - one for hike in - one for climb - one for hike out. Many people do it in two, but I've heard several parties say they were really tired after the climb and wished they spent an extra day. With limited time I would rule out North Ridge (Long approach, sometimes difficult getting across Cascade canyon). I think the East ridge is perhaps the longest climb on the Grand - AND it has a really long approach too. 2. It will be CROWDED! The Exum Ridge, Owen Spaulding, and the descent. Slower parties will get in your way and you can't always pass. They may get you in trouble with #3. Start very early and go in the middle of the week. 3. Start your descent no later than 2pm or you may get caught in a thunderstorm. I try to be back to the upper saddle BY two oclock. My favorite climb of the Grand? Two day trip. Early start on the second day, climbing the Lower Exum. We unroped when we hit the Golden Staircase and free soloed the upper Exum and made the top about 10 am. We spent 3 hours on top and watched a sailplane navigating the range, which included a close flyby and wave from the pilot as he swooped past.

All good advice as noted above.

As for #1, I've always tried to talk my partners into doing it in a day but never had any luck. It sucks hauling all that camping gear up there, but it is a beautiful place to camp. I did have one friend who did it in a day and said it kicked his ass as well. Also though there is some advantage to camping in the Moraine as that you can plan an extra day. Then you can have a weather day or go climb the Middle or something.

#2 - Getting off the beaten path helps with that a little bit as does timing (middle of the week, non-holidays, etc.). However the descent can be very crowded as they all share the same descent.

As for #3 just stop by the Jenny Lake Ranger Station and check out the melted ice axes, nuts, and carabiners from the big lightning strike a few years ago and that will convince you to be down as early as possible (I think that one happened at like 10 or 11am).

I'm planning a similar trip - thanks for the intel.

We were planning on spending two nights at the Caves campsite and trying for the complete Exum (i've done the Upper Exum before).

Is the Lower Exum 'better' than the Petzoldt (or vica versa) or are they just different?

If the weather cooperates and we have a second day to climb in Garnet Canyon (basing out of the Caves camp site) what would be a solid bonus climb? Anything better than Irene's Arete?

We'll be in the Jackson area for 4 days, we were also thinking of targeting the SW Ridge of Symmetry Spire. Seems like a good moderate with a reasonable approach? Any other suggestions for 4 star single day moderate climbs in the range?

For what it's worth, women are sometimes surprised by how long it takes to recover their prior fitness level after a pregnancy. So I'd keep the plan loose and low-pressure until that aspect resolves itself. Beth Rodden has blogged quite a bit about this subject, FYI. If this is a first child, she and/or you may have a different risk tolerance with a newborn at home too. Anyway, good luck and have fun, with both adventures!

Stagg54 wrote:Also though there is some advantage to camping in the Moraine as that you can plan an extra day. Then you can have a weather day or go climb the Middle or something.

We stayed at the Moraine and appreciated having the extra weather day - plus closer proximity to the Grand than lower camps while not as exposed to the winds as Lower Saddle. No bear boxes at the Moraine though - unlike Garnet Meadows, the Caves and Lower Saddle - officially, you have to bring your own to stay at the Moraine.

Stagg54 wrote:... stop by the Jenny Lake Ranger Station and check out the melted ice axes, nuts, and carabiners from the big lightning strike a few years ago and that will convince you to be down as early as possible (I think that one happened at like 10 or 11am).

We stopped in the Jenny Lake Ranger Station last September and asked about the melted metal. It was not on hand. I got the impression it was stored with a kit they use for lectures (?) about weather conditions.

I'll add, while my primary reason for stopping by ranger station was to see the melted metal, we were not disappointed - chatting with a full-time ranger and part-time range for a couple hours about the Tetons. It was a good ending to our 8 day trip although we learned they had helpful information for those just starting their trip.

Bill Lawry wrote: I'll add, while my primary reason for stopping by ranger station was to see the melted metal, we were not disappointed - chatting with a full-time ranger and part-time range for a couple hours about the Tetons. It was a good ending to our 8 day trip although we learned they had helpful information for those just starting their trip.

The rangers have always been excellent.

ChrisN wrote:We were planning on spending two nights at the Caves campsite and trying for the complete Exum (i've done the Upper Exum before). Is the Lower Exum 'better' than the Petzoldt (or vica versa) or are they just different? If the weather cooperates and we have a second day to climb in Garnet Canyon (basing out of the Caves camp site) what would be a solid bonus climb? Anything better than Irene's Arete? We'll be in the Jackson area for 4 days, we were also thinking of targeting the SW Ridge of Symmetry Spire. Seems like a good moderate with a reasonable approach? Any other suggestions for 4 star single day moderate climbs in the range?

Just different, the Lower Exum is a classic as is Irene's Arete. I would suggest going to the caves to camp, climb Irene's, and then head up to the LS to camp, and do the Exum. Not having to do the hike from the Caves will give you more time and a chance to suss out the start. Another moderate to consider is Guide's wall in Cascade Canyon. It can be busy though.

Allen Sanderson wrote: Just different, the Lower Exum is a classic as is Irene's Arete. I would suggest going to the caves to camp, climb Irene's, and then head up to the LS to camp, and do the Exum. Not having to do the hike from the Caves will give you more time and a chance to suss out the start. Another moderate to consider is Guide's wall in Cascade Canyon. It can be busy though.

If you are already camping in Garnet, climbing the Middle can be fun. The black dike is quite nice - just be careful with the bowling alley on the last pitch.