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Route in between traitor horn and pearly gates

Original Post
Trevor Mathews · · Upland, CA · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 0

What's the name/rating of the crack in between traitor horn and pearly gates?

mountainproject.com/v/trait…

mountainproject.com/v/pearl…

It's right in the middle of this picture:
mountainproject.com/v/10645…

matt c. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 155

Do you mean climbing traitor horn but not using thee horn and instead climbing directly up the crack?

I believe this route is called traitor horn. Taq is not a gym or stony point. No need for eliminates.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

I just looked at my third edition, "Rock Climbing Tahquitz and Suicide Rock" by Vogel and Gaines. That crack is not named or shown as a separate route. Based on the comments in MP about Traitor Horn, some people avoid the true horn by going up that crack.

Joy likes trad · · Southern California · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 71
FrankPS wrote:...true horn ...

hence the distinct name of the feature.

Trevor Mathews · · Upland, CA · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 0
FrankPS wrote:I just looked at my third edition, "Rock Climbing Tahquitz and Suicide Rock" by Vogel and Gaines. That crack is not named or shown as a separate route. Based on the comments in MP about Traitor Horn, some people avoid the true horn by going up that crack.

Interesting, I found the crack to be harder than 5.8. I figured there would be something about a variation to the horn moves. Cool.

Joy likes trad · · Southern California · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 71
tmath11 wrote: Interesting, I found the crack to be harder than 5.8. I figured there would be something about a variation to the horn moves. Cool.

the horn is "cooler" it doesn't matter the diffculty.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
tmath11 wrote: Interesting, I found the crack to be harder than 5.8. I figured there would be something about a variation to the horn moves. Cool.

The book has a "9" on that crack, right where the 5.8 Traitor Horn goes across it. The book also has a "10a" where the 5.9 Pearly Gates goes. Go figure. (hard to read the topo from MP)

Trevor Mathews · · Upland, CA · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 0
FrankPS wrote: The book has a "9" on that crack, right where the 5.8 Traitor Horn goes across it. The book also has a "10a" where the 5.9 Pearly Gates goes. Go figure. (hard to read the topo from MP)

I would give it 10a before I'd give it 5.9. Maybe they got it mixed up. Maybe I just need to climb harder.

Hand.jammin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 5
tmath11 wrote: I would give it 10a before I'd give it 5.9. Maybe they got it mixed up. Maybe I just need to climb harder.

^^^ Welcome to Idyllwild

G Halsne · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 1,487

That Crack is pretty awesome either way. Layback into the skyyyyy!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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