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Traitor Horn 

Pearly Gate 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dave Rearick and Bob Kamps, 1969
Page Views: 1,733
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: Pearly Gate


This climb starts high on the rock, and is about ten feet to the left of the crux pitch of Traitor Horn. Climb the easy initial pitch or two of Traitor Horn. Then climb up into the alcove and ascend the crack on the left side. It widens from #3 friend to #4 or #4.5 friend size. Lieback up the vertical crack for about twelve feet to where the crack steepens. Continue to lieback and undercling (exciting) up to the lip, and exit to easy ground and a belay. Easy fifth class friction leads to the top.


standard rack, with a few pieces to a #4.5 friend

Photos of Pearly Gate Slideshow Add Photo
Original Chuck Wilts ratings:  Pearly Gate 5.10
BETA PHOTO: Original Chuck Wilts ratings: Pearly Gate 5.10
Finishing crack of Pearly Gate route adjacent to Traitor Horn route.
BETA PHOTO: Finishing crack of Pearly Gate route adjacent to T...
Pearly gate
Pearly gate
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By Bruce Diffenbaugh
From: Cheyenne,Wyoming
Mar 17, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Just to be clear, as you face the true horn in the alcove this route is the crack in the left corner.

By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Jul 7, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Got succered into this lead by a friend who told me it "has good jams". "Looks wide to me", I said. Nonetheless, I headed up leaving the #4 behind. My gear selection wasn't too bad but I burned up both #3s lower down. I then had to lower to retrieve the bottom one for higher up on the climb, which worked out well. My point is, this is harder for those of us with skinny hands (maybe I missed out on the layback) and also you can protect well with #3 C4 camalots if you save them for up high, however it does widen right near the top so a larger cam could find some use.

By JoshuaTreeRunner
From: Los Angeles
Nov 17, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

i heard this doesnt get climbed much prolly because the very popular Traitor Horn route is 20ft to the right of it. it is clearly visible from the ground 300ft below it. it looks vertical from the ground but its actually slightly overhanging horned crack. i really enjoyed it, as well as the follower. i used handjams (wide) and weird pulls and footjams on lead. the follower did a layback and he said he liked it. good idea to set up a belay in the alcove just below this crack.

By x15x15
May 7, 2010

this is a phenominal pitch. it's exposure totally makes up for the lack in length. if you're willing to walk your cams, you only need a couple of pieces fpr this pitch.

By JoshuaTreeRunner
From: Los Angeles
May 19, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

I noticed that someone added a new bolt on the left wall for the finish of Pearly Gate, thereby making it unnecessary to carry a monster cam for the wide finish. Wonder if that one will get chopped...?

btw, i think the exit move is actually 5.10- but since its so short overall... 5.9+

By x15x15
May 20, 2010

that bolt is way out of the way. if you are clipping it, then you are not climbing pearly gates. if you stay with the crack, there is no move harder than 5.9 and topping out is quite safe with a 3.5 camelot.

the crack is short enough that bringing only a #2, #3 AND #3.5 is quite reasonable. of course, if you are belaying over at the jensens jaunt belay (like you should), you may need a little bit extra stuff as you wander over to pearly gates.