Traitor Horn 

Name is a pun on the 1931 movie "Trader Horn".

One of the wildest, most exposed 5.8's I've ever done. The traverse onto the horn and standing up on the horn were exciting and memorable. The crux move off the horn had me sweating too.

My partner was too scared to traverse onto the horn, so she climbed straight up the crack in the back of the alcove. Harder, but a lot more secure!

Followed this route yesterday with my friend Tom who turns sixty on Wednesday. Fell making the move onto the horn the first time, fell twice making the move off the horn. What a kick! Hats off to the fellows who first did this route along time ago!

This is pretty "airy" for it's grade. I was gripped. Awesome!

Finally got up the nerve to lead this one. Passed the P2/3 niche belay and anchored higher up so my partner could anchor in the niche for my run at the crux. Both traverses are delicate and have very few options for pro. Clipped the lost arrow just so I could be on something, anything while I set a cam higher up because the overhanging dihedral really spits you out! The crux was no issue but the exposure!!! I think the true crux is just protecting the horn. And standing up on the horn - my legs were weak! This is a must do for anyone who loves Tahquitz. Traitor Horn is an awesome climb!

Fantastic! A must do. Nice introduction to exposed climbing. Test your self on this route if you want to know how well you will react to exposure. The exposed moves are amazing and quickly over.

The exposure is awesome, the moves onto and off of the horn are fun, and it makes for a great photo op... that said, I was a bit disappointed given the four-star rating and hype. There’s only about 20 feet of climbing on the route, albeit a really fun 20 feet, a bit of a traverse before, and 4th class afterwards. Definitely worth doing, but not four-star compared to other routes at Tahquitz.

This climb often produces epic events for the second. (have seen this happen often over the years much to the entertainment of those below) The leader needs to make sure the rope management takes care of the second.


Make sure the rope runs on the horn side of the crack and can't slide back into it. Belaying shortly after the horn is a good idea.

If it runs in the crack or to climbers left of it a fall by the second will result in either a slam into the corner or a big air swing, lowering, reclimbing and much whining.

Yeah, it's a one move wonder, but premier among them. Do the Coffin Nail approach for full value.

coffin nail approach is nice, but the route itself is nothing special. the horn is cool, sure, but then its over.

Great "pucker" factor for the grade. One of my first leads and still memorable.

Had a blast on this climb. Just remember to place your pro well so your second doesn't have some crazy swinging fall if he takes one. If exposure doesn't bother you then this is a lot of fun. Didn't think that any of the moves onto or off the horn were too bad. Kind of bouldery type moves. Fun stuff!

It's a little tricky to make the moves right and onto the horn. Biffing it might be ugly. Linking from Coffin Nail is classic.

Bring an extra pair of pants... Even following it I felt like I'd shit mine.