|West Face - Right Side
Traitor Horn is an area classic, and has a great exposed crux when you pull on to the 'True Horn'!
P1 & 2 - Climb the first 2 pitches of Jensen's Jaunt (5.6) until you can head right just below the headwall to a protruding horn of rock. This is the 'Traitor Horn'. Traverse up and right to a small niche and belay. Try to protect this traverse well for your second, as the traversing moves can be delicate.
P3 - Climb up and over to the right. There will be 2 pitons just before the move onto the 'True Horn' (crux). The crack directly above with the pitons is a different route, and instead move to the right onto the horn. Then up, up, and over to a good belay spot with a tree growing out of a crack. If your second is not strong or is scared to move to the horn, make sure the rope is in the crack and not out away from it. I know this sounds wrong, but if your 2nd falls they will be hanging in air and will be hard to get them back onto the rock.
P4 is long up a low angle slab to the top.
You can also start the climb with Coffin Nail (5.8) or On the Road (5.10c). Also El Camino Real (5.10a) is another do way to go.
Thin to 2.5 inches
|By Chris Owen|
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Mar 12, 2006
Name is a pun on the 1931 movie "Trader Horn".
|By Ron Olsen|
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 12, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
One of the wildest, most exposed 5.8's I've ever done. The traverse onto the horn and standing up on the horn were exciting and memorable. The crux move off the horn had me sweating too.
My partner was too scared to traverse onto the horn, so she climbed straight up the crack in the back of the alcove. Harder, but a lot more secure!
|By Mark Allen|
Sep 29, 2006
Followed this route yesterday with my friend Tom who turns sixty on Wednesday. Fell making the move onto the horn the first time, fell twice making the move off the horn. What a kick! Hats off to the fellows who first did this route along time ago!
|By Joe Keyser|
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Mar 9, 2007
This is pretty "airy" for it's grade. I was gripped. Awesome!
|By Bill Olszewski|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 12, 2007
Finally got up the nerve to lead this one. Passed the P2/3 niche belay and anchored higher up so my partner could anchor in the niche for my run at the crux. Both traverses are delicate and have very few options for pro. Clipped the lost arrow just so I could be on something, anything while I set a cam higher up because the overhanging dihedral really spits you out! The crux was no issue but the exposure!!! I think the true crux is just protecting the horn. And standing up on the horn - my legs were weak! This is a must do for anyone who loves Tahquitz. Traitor Horn is an awesome climb!
|By Christian "crisco" Burrell|
From: PG, Utah
Aug 14, 2007
Fantastic! A must do. Nice introduction to exposed climbing. Test your self on this route if you want to know how well you will react to exposure. The exposed moves are amazing and quickly over.
|By Ryan Kelly|
Aug 4, 2008
The exposure is awesome, the moves onto and off of the horn are fun, and it makes for a great photo op... that said, I was a bit disappointed given the four-star rating and hype. There’s only about 20 feet of climbing on the route, albeit a really fun 20 feet, a bit of a traverse before, and 4th class afterwards. Definitely worth doing, but not four-star compared to other routes at Tahquitz.
|By The Gray Tradster|
Sep 27, 2008
This climb often produces epic events for the second. (have seen this happen often over the years much to the entertainment of those below) The leader needs to make sure the rope management takes care of the second.
Make sure the rope runs on the horn side of the crack and can't slide back into it. Belaying shortly after the horn is a good idea.
If it runs in the crack or to climbers left of it a fall by the second will result in either a slam into the corner or a big air swing, lowering, reclimbing and much whining.
Yeah, it's a one move wonder, but premier among them. Do the Coffin Nail approach for full value.
|By Jesse Davidson|
From: san diego, ca
Mar 17, 2009
coffin nail approach is nice, but the route itself is nothing special. the horn is cool, sure, but then its over.
Mar 21, 2009
Great "pucker" factor for the grade. One of my first leads and still memorable.
From: ventura, ca
Oct 10, 2009
Had a blast on this climb. Just remember to place your pro well so your second doesn't have some crazy swinging fall if he takes one. If exposure doesn't bother you then this is a lot of fun. Didn't think that any of the moves onto or off the horn were too bad. Kind of bouldery type moves. Fun stuff!
Jan 14, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13
It's a little tricky to make the moves right and onto the horn. Biffing it might be ugly. Linking from Coffin Nail is classic.
|By Jack Mullen|
From: Oceanside CA
May 5, 2013
Bring an extra pair of pants... Even following it I felt like I'd shit mine.