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Shortening anchors with cord

Original Post
Shepido · · Denver, CO · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 50

I purchased a 4m (13ft) length of pre-packaged 7mm cord from Petzl, and found myself in a situation where I needed to shorten up my anchor considerably. I was wondering what people's solution to shorten up long sections of cord is? I searched and found limited results, especially if I want to use an equalette instead of a cordalette or quad.

I settled on clove hitching two strands on the left anchor, which leaves just some sort of hanging strand. By the way is there a term for using two strands in a clove hitch? I tried searching on MP and google for "clove hitching two strands" and didn't get any useful results.

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qF4A85CPr8c

BigFeet · · Texas · Joined May 2014 · Points: 385

csproul, always there when needed.

That is a good video illustrating an answer to the question. Quick, efficient, and solid is always preferred.

coppolillo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 70

https://chicory3.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/quad-anchor.jpg

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330
BigFeet wrote:csproul, always there when needed. That is a good video illustrating an answer to the question.

I'd like to take the credit, but I blatantly stole this from another MP thread. Sorry to whomever posted it first. It was new to me too.

Michael C · · New Jersey · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 340
Shepido wrote:I settled on clove hitching two strands on the left anchor

Um, that don't look like no clove hitch.

Ryan Nevius · · Perchtoldsdorf, AT · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,848

My suggestion, in this case, would be to either:

(1) Tie a Quad Anchor , or
(2) Simply clip one of the strands, pass the other end of the cordelette through the other carabiner, and include that end as part of the masterpoint.

Shepido · · Denver, CO · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 50
Michael C wrote: Um, that don't look like no clove hitch.

Just an odd angle of the photo, but it is indeed a clove.

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20
Shepido wrote:I settled on clove hitching two strands on the left anchor, which leaves just some sort of hanging strand.

Closing the system would make me feel safer - tying square/fig 8 knot on that free strand and clipping back to left carabiner

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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