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Backing up rappells: Who does it?

Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 422

I rarely back up rappels, but do on rare occasions.

But what I do a ton of, particularly when I have any doubts at all, or want easier control over the speed, is take single leg wrap and rap with it. This isn't a 'once-around-the-thigh' kind of leg wrap, though, it's a loose, single wrap that spirals from above my knee and down to my ankle. I'll sometimes do a whole rap this way. I can instantly convert that to three spiral wraps over the same parts of my leg and then go over the top of my shoe to lock it off if I want to go hands free for any reason and can do that without any use of my hands at all.

Greg Pouliot · · Rumney NH · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 90

Why the hell wouldn't you back up a rappel? Personally I think the discussion of whether or not you should do it is pointless as all hell. Back it up. It doesn't matter if its 10 feet or 100 feet. If you lose control of the rap and you hit the ground you can die. 5 mm cord costs 35 cents a foot and takes no more than a few seconds to create a prussik. It doesn't slow the rappel of you do it right and it can save your life.

Pete Spri · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 342
Greg Pouliot wrote:Why the hell wouldn't you back up a rappel? Personally I think the discussion of whether or not you should do it is pointless as all hell. Back it up. It doesn't matter if its 10 feet or 100 feet. If you lose control of the rap and you hit the ground you can die. 5 mm cord costs 35 cents a foot and takes no more than a few seconds to create a prussik. It doesn't slow the rappel of you do it right and it can save your life.

There are a lot of valid reasons why, as have been pointed out. If you haven't encountered the potential issues, then you probably haven't climbed enough.

David Gibbs · · Ottawa, ON · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2
Greg Pouliot wrote:Why the hell wouldn't you back up a rappel?

Because, sometimes, doing a fast clean rappel can be fun. And tending a backup knot makes it less fun. And sometimes I choose to trade a bit less safety for a bit more fun.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

Why the hell wouldn't you back up a lower? Personally I think the discussion of whether or not you should do it is pointless as all hell. Back it up. It doesn't matter if its 10 feet or 100 feet. If you lose control of the lower and your partner hit the ground your partner can die. 5 mm cord costs 35 cents a foot and takes no more than a few seconds to create a prussik. It doesn't slow the lower of you do it right and it can save your partners life.

/s

;)

David Gibbs · · Ottawa, ON · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2
bearbreeder wrote:Why the hell wouldn't you back up a lower? Personally I think the discussion of whether or not you should do it is pointless as all hell. Back it up. It doesn't matter if its 10 feet or 100 feet. If you lose control of the lower and your partner hit the ground your partner can die. 5 mm cord costs 35 cents a foot and takes no more than a few seconds to create a prussik. It doesn't slow the lower of you do it right and it can save your partners life. /s ;)

And, it allows you to easily go hands-free if you need to untangle the rope that you want to feed through on the lower, too! Awesome idea bearbreeder, I'm going to backup all my lowers from now on.

Hell, maybe I should backup all my belays, too!

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
David Gibbs wrote: And, it allows you to easily go hands-free if you need to untangle the rope that you want to feed through on the lower, too! Awesome idea bearbreeder, I'm going to backup all my lowers from now on. Hell, maybe I should backup all my belays, too!

I already back up my belays.. I use a Grigri!

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

Looking at it logically there no "reason" not to back up yr lowers

I mean really ... One can loose control, get hit by a rock, attacked by a dog, slammed into the wall, etc ...

It only takes a few seconds to setup once yr climber is on their safety

/s

Realistically if folks want to be "always safe" then they better use a grigri as everything that can happen on rap can happen on belay

And thats yr partners life

Nothing wrong with using a backup or a grigri as long as you are proficient WITHOUT one

If you arent then go back to square one

;)

Jacob Koffler · · Las Vegas · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 10

Well said bearbreeder ... that pretty much sums it up ... lets put this thread to rest now

Healyje · · PDX · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 422
bearbreeder wrote:Looking at it logically there no "reason" not to...
Jacob Koffler wrote:...that pretty much sums it up

As mindless defaults go, sure. But then given the way the sport and demographics [and competencies] have gone, I suppose that's probably appropriate advice. Now if only such measures would actually keep you 'safe' from injury and death while climbing it would be perfect. And for goodness sake, be careful! It's those 10 foot rappels that will get you.

M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911
Healyje wrote: As mindless defaults go, sure. But then given the way the sport and demographics [and competencies] have gone, I suppose that's probably appropriate advice. Now if only such measures would actually keep you 'safe' from injury and death while climbing it would be perfect. And for goodness sake, be careful! It's those 10 foot rappels that will get you.

I've never used a backup more than a few times in my life. Most people around here are really into using them so I'm a bit of an outcast(or relic, take your pic) but it seems to me the whole idea of the backup is to keep you safe from injury or death.

Pete Spri · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 342
Healyje wrote: As mindless defaults go, sure. But then given the way the sport and demographics [and competencies] have gone, I suppose that's probably appropriate advice. Now if only such measures would actually keep you 'safe' from injury and death while climbing it would be perfect. And for goodness sake, be careful! It's those 10 foot rappels that will get you.

He was joking, and simply taking the argument to the nth degree to make a point.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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