Mt Rainier DC Route Next week- Critique my Gear!

Hey Everyone- figured I would see if there are any huge missing gaps here with what I intend to bring for my Rainier climb. Here is a picture of my setup:

• *PERMITS**

National Parks Pass
Black Diamond Firstlight
4 MSR Snow Stakes
Neoair Xtherm
WM Apache 15*F sleeping bag
Baselayer shirt
Patagonia R1
Ferrosi Softshell
Atom LT
Atom SV / Feathered Friends Helios (I am using either of these- bringing just one)
Alpha FL Shell
Exoffico base
EMS Long Johns
OR Cirque pants
Rainier Storm Shells
OR Gaitors
OR Wind Hat
OR Mittens
OR Gloves
Fleece Gloves
Julbo Glacial Glasses
Goggles
Evo Nepals
Mountaineering Socks
Komperdell Poles
BD Headlamp
3 AAA Batteries
Sunscreen SPF 70
Chap Stick SPF 45
First Aid Kit
Crampons
Ice Axe
BD alpine harness
Lockers x 4
Regular biners x4
DMM Revolver biners X2 (one for partner one for me)
Pulley
BD Helmet
60CM Sling x3
120CM Sling x3
Cordellette
21cm Ice Screw
Prussik
Tiblock
Snow Picket X2 (2 man rope team)
Snow Anchor
Alpha FL 45 Pack
Diamox

Bring skis for the ride down

Avy beacons?

Jesse!

Dude! We never climbed!

Happy to kick around gear ideas/etc in person. Want to grab a quick session at Woodson sometime this weekend?

Diamox? Probably unnecessary.

I was there a couple weeks back on the Kautz Glacier route and found warm temps and lots of bare rock. Haven't paid attention to weather since. It seems like you may be a little heavy on redundant clothing layers.

Probably could skip the goggles.

Snow anchor? Like a fluke or something? Might not be needed since you'll have pickets etc already.

Maybe grab some wag bags if you like them better than blue bags.

I know guides are required to put beacons on clients going to the upper mountain but not sure that's required for private parties. It's mainly just for body recovery anyway.

Have fun!

Sherpas?

ooOoo, shiny gear

good luck on the climb!

Splitting hairs here, but you'll probably be more comfortable in a Cap 4 hoody (or even a capilene 2 plus the t-shirt) than an R1, the R1 is so warm. Especially if you're taking the Ferrosi windshirt and putting the shell on over it. It gets cold on the upper mountain but it's been hot as balls up here recently.

I wouldn't screw with additional snow anchor (fluke?) beyond the two pickets, especially if you don't have experience placing them. The flukes rack better than pickets but some argue it's hard to evaluate how bomber (or not) their placements are.

It's really hard and sun-cupped over much of the lower mountain, the suggestion of skis is ill-advised in my opinion unless you're an excellent skier or a masochist.

Also - the route isn't technical. Why not take a pack that will be comfortable? Your shoulders are gonna be dying by the time you get to Camp Muir. If you've got a traditional 45-60L pack with a robust hipbelt and thicker shoulder straps, you'll be more comfortable even though you won't feel as badass as you'd feel with the Arcteryx pack. Ignore this comment I guess if you've been conditioning with the alpha pack and are less of a pussy than I am (or maybe have more robust traps).

Really appreciate the input everyone! Here are my thoughts:
- No beacons planned though I am open to the idea. I figure July conditions should be avalanche free no?
- I will be taking Diamox (I have done 14ers with and without- usually feel ok without, but I have some so I'll take it)
- I am looking at the forecast, and it looks like it will start to cool off with freezing around 10k- figure better safe than sorry on all the extra layers (I am sure after the trip I'll report back here saying you guys were right they are unnecessary)
- I will skip the fluke, and just bring two pickets.
- I have a big heavy backpacking pack, but it weighs 6 pounds. I will suffer a little bit to save 4+ pounds on this one item.

What about gaitors? Aside from the danger of nicking my pants, I am thinking about skipping them. Has anyone else skipped out on gaitors for a July climb? I doubt I'll be postholing my way through anything.

Burch I am flying out tomorrow! Lets climb when I am back the following week! I also want to do some couloirs

The most common injury on Rainier is over exposure to the sun.

Having been burnt every time I've been up there, I can say that you can't do too much to protect yourself from the sun. Grab a bandanna or sun hat and toss into the mix.

If you're staying at the Muir public shelter, a 15 degree bag will be overly warm.

The route is probably getting nasty by this point. Make sure your crampons have anti-botte plates for the hike down - snow on the Cleaver likes to stick to newbs crampons in the afternoon sun.

Don't take gaitors. There's no powder up there.

If you're not gonna do gaiters, at least try to rig some shock cord loops on your pants to run under the sole of your boot to keep the pants from being pushed up if you sink in (assuming you have loops inside with which to do so). The Nepals are tall so you're probably fine. Those Cirques already have that little patch reinforced where folks typically catch the crampons.

Yes, there's no powder, but there can be mashed potatoes on the descent later in the afternoon that you can easily sink into.

good point Jared. I usually ski past those. :-) take the gaiters. or shockcord loops.

astrov makes two very good points- I actually had the roof of my mouth sunburned by sun reflecting off the snow when I did Rainier. So, sun hat and bandana would be good to have. Also, a 15 degree bag sounds awful damn warm, whether you're in the public shelter or in a tent nearby. Do you have a lighter alternative?

Why are you bringing a light jacket (Atom LT) and a heavy jacket (Atom SV)? One should be enough, probably the Atom LT with all those other layers.

Fleece gloves with a shell mitten should be enough. I assume that by "fleece gloves" you mean something like these: blackdiamondequipment.com/e…

Are you bringing 3 spare batteries? Don't. Just put fresh lithium cells in your headlamp before you go.Can your headlamp be locked to keep it from turning on accidentally? If not, pack it carefully enough that this doesn't happen.

Looks like a pretty good list, but what about a belay/rappel device?

You don't really need the pulley if you've got DMM Revolver biners.

Once again, thanks for all the input!

I think I will pickup a sun hat in Seattle for the climb. Also I used some tent pole shock cord plus those little cinch clasps, and made two pieces for my pants to keep them strapped down- works well, and I am ditching the gaitors. Oh and I am bringing a reverso 4. Thinking I will ditch the batteries, though between my partner and I we will have an extra headlamp to be safe.

As far as the bag goes, My other bag is a 35F so I will just stick with this one.

35F bag would probably be fine, based on the forecast. Camping at Muir, yeah? Wear some of the clothing you brought as part of your sleep system if you're worried about being cold. Advance your mountaineering game by 50 points. Ladies will swoon.

forecast.weather.gov/MapCli…;lat=46.83092#.VZ_zxbVRqk4

Concur with Adam--take the 35F and sleep in your clothes. If you brought the insulation along, you might as well use it.

Consider how many tent stakes you actually need, especially if you'll be taking your tent down. Pickets, trekking poles, rocks, and a stuff sack full of snow can all be used to stake out a tent.

Leave the snow anchor--you have pickets, plus you'll have a backpack and or ice axe that can be used for anchoring as well.

You probably don't need goggles (pending forecast).

A ball cap or bandana work wonders for keeping the sun off. Use your sunblock.

You probably don't really need the revolvers or the pulley. Tibloc is probably unnecessary. You can also probably ditch one each of the 60cm and 120cm slings. Alternately, if bringing a tibloc, ratcheting pulley (like microtraxion), etc., adjust the slings/cordelette carried accordingly.

Given how warm it is, you could probably ditch the long johns and just put on your shells if needed. Or bring the long johns and ditch the shells (pending forecast).

You're bringing a soft shell and hard shell top. Probably only need one or the other.

If you can, I'd trade the R1 for a sun hoody instead.

If the weather's looking really good, just leave the tent behind and bivy out. Tyvek or thin plastic sheeting is lightweight and makes an adequate groundsheet.

When I climbed the Kautz Glacier Route two weeks ago (June 23), I mainly remember getting too hot on the descent and while sleeping. I also got sunburned on the way down despite wearing a neck gaiter, sun hat, and sunscreen. I used a 5*F bag and was sweating all night in our tent at 10,500 ft. My friend, who had a 20*F down bag, seemed much more comfortable, though he complained of being a little too warm as well. On the descent, when I definitely overheated and became dehydrated, I was wearing a light smartwool base layer, hardshell pants, and my lightest hardshell jacket (the Patagonia M12). There were times during the climb to the summit when this combination was a little chilly, especially in the wind, but typically it was too hot rather than too cold.

Anyway, bringing your extra layers adds a margin of safety, but when you actually dress for each day of climbing, think in terms of avoiding the heat, and you'll probably be more comfortable. And as to sleeping, definitely consider bringing a lighter and cooler bag.

I was on liberty ridge yesterday and bailed do to lack of snow and ice. Moutains pretty much bare. Your brining slot of gear and may find your clothing system way to warm. Looks like your bringig alot of gear to. I suggest mimilizing your pro and crevasse rescue kit as much as possible as its a big moutain and not much fun with a heavy pack.

You have an excess of stuff. The DC is a walk.

Dont need the ferrosi and the alpha, theyre the same thing. Pick one.
Dont need the atom LT/SV just bring the Helios.
Dont need mittens and gloves, and fleece gloves, pick two
Dont need goggles
Dont need 4 lockers
Definitely dont need any revolvers
Dont need all those slings and a cordalette
Dont need a picket, youre not going to use it. Or really your crevasse rescue kit. With two people, if one person falls into a crevasse the other person is not going to be able to hold their weight and hammer in a picket to rig a haul. The most you can hope for is for the fallen partner to climb their way out while the topside guy attempts a belay. Climbing roped with only one partner on crevasse terrain is not ideal.

Couldn't agree more ^