Team of 2 climbing training

Anyone have anything to say about this? Good or bad.
teamof2climbing.com/product…

Lol, what people do to make a buck.

Give it a go and get back to me with the results.

I havent tried it, but I am not much of a fan in paying money for strength training for climbing. But if you want to go that route, I suggest getting training from a real coach in person. I am sure Stone Summit has programs. Also, check out the Self Coached Climber. If you are really motivated and really want to learn as fast as possible, the Self Coached Climber has more info in it than any coach will cover with you.

Last, another option is to try to climb with someone who is really experienced. There are plenty of people at Stone Summit (assuming you climb there) who are in the know.

Ben Glanton wrote:Anyone have anything to say about this? Good or bad. teamof2climbing.com/product…

In person training is better, but if you can't make it to Boulder I think the online program with these guys will be useful. I have trained with Justen for a couple of seasons and with Kris once or twice. You will get two very asture observers to analyze your strengths and weaknesses and suggest appropriate training. I haven't needed the online version, but have seen the demo and I think it's going to be better tailored to your needs than any "canned" program.

They may do some clinics back east, you might want to email them and ask.

Edited to add-
The Self Coached Climber is a great book, but doesn't compare to a good trainer. It is a lot cheaper.

I tried it once. We had a group of 10 people, so it was fairly large to get enough personal attention in my opinion. They worked us hard though! It made me want to get a few buddies together for weekly sessions of that type of training. Anything more than once or twice a week at that intensity would be obsurd (as one of the guys told me when I asked how often one should train like that).
It's a lot of money, but it gets you motivated!

I give it three and a half stars. Pros: increased motivation, endurance training for long routes, learning about how your body reacts to physical stress, a hell of a workout. Cons: pricy, not very personalized, need motivated partner/partners to maintain consistent training, non technical.

I found most useful to videotape myself climbing and then critique my own technique. I also watch videos of pros frequently as well as other climbers. I find it most helpful when it comes to technique.

Happy Porter wrote:keep your heart rate below 200 bpm the whole time.

Unless you're nine you couldent get over 200 if your life depended on it. Max HR for a 21 year old male is 190.

I have participated in a number of one coaching programs. Triathlon training, CrossFit, swim team, and a few others. What I have found is the coaches basically just give you a monthly or weekly calendar and tell you what to do. But the events on the calendar are things you already know how to do. For example, in the case of triathlon training it went something like: Mon; swim 4000m; Tues, run 10 miles; Wed, bike 75 miles, ect. I quickly learned that I was paying a bunch of money to have someone tell me what was obvious to me: to become a better triathlete run, bike and swim.

Where coaching is most useful is when a coach watches you, points out an error and you learn from that. But it might be hard to get the full benefit of that if you do not have a coach standing next to you. In short, for most, coaches dont offer much that you cannot learn on your own if you are motivated enough.

20 kN wrote: Unless you're nine you couldent get over 200 if your life depended on it. Max HR for a 21 year old male is 190.

This is a joke right?

divnamite wrote: This is a joke right?

http://www.digifit.com/heartratezones/maximum-heart-rate.asp

Equation 3 and 4 is the most accurate and most accepted.

I have been using HR training for years. When I was training a bunch last year, I was doing sets of 400, 800 and 1200m full-on, balls-to-the-wall sprints on the track quite regularly, and I never broke 190ish. Highest I got was around 184 if I recall right. I am 27. I have done 14-hour-long workout sessions (e.g. Ironman triathlon) and never broke 175 HR. I normally hover around 150 - 160 for endurance events and 175ish for sprints.

20 kN wrote: digifit.com/heartratezones/… Equation 3 and 4 is the most accurate and most accepted. For males, it looks like anyone older than 3 cannot achieve a max HR of 200 or higher. I have been using HR training for years. When I was training a bunch last year, I was doing sets of 400, 800 and 1200m full-on, balls-to-the-wall sprints on the track quite regularly, and I never broke 200, not even close. I am 27. I have done 14-hour-long workout sessions (e.g. Ironman triathlon) and never broke 175 HR. I normally hover around 150 - 160 for endurance events, and 175ish for sprints. I have never heard of an adult breaking 200, and if he did, the HR strap was probably inaccurate (HR straps have a lot of problems on a lot of people).

divnamite wrote: NY Times Article Just getting the heart to its actual maximum rate is an immense effort and holding it there for even a minute is so painful that it is all but inconceivable for anyone who is not supremely motivated, Dr. Kirkendall said. But this rower confounded the predictions. ''His pulse rate hit 200 at 90 seconds into the test,'' Dr. Kirkendall said. ''And he held it there for the rest of the test.'' A local cardiologist was looking on in astonishment and told Dr. Kirkendall, ''You know, there's not a textbook in the world that says a person could have done that.''

Interesting, thanks for the link.

Dave Holliday wrote: Interesting. I must be an outlier because my lactate threshold is 186 (determined by the good folks at the Boulder Center for Sports Medicine) and my max heart rate that I've observed is 203. This was when I was 42 years old (I'm now 46).

What strap did you use and what were you doing at the time?

I think there's a lot of variability in max heart rate. I'm 57 and have hit 197, although that was on a chest strap/wrist combo, so maybe not accurate.

I looked into the original Max HR formula a while back and it's terrible research. Don't have the references in front of me. Not sure if any of the newer formulas are any better supported.

Justen is the real deal. I wrote a review for his site which I'll repost here:

-------
Justen is a tremendously insightful and observant coach! He immediately saw things in my climbing that it had taken me years to vaguely recognize, and identified key areas of improvement that propelled me through a plateau).

During the coaching sessions, I learned mental strategies and techniques that I could immediately apply to my projects and onsight attempts on rock. He explains complex concepts with clarity. I was blown away by the results! I climbed several grades harder than I had before, and I had the satisfaction of understanding why my performance was so much better.

Through a greater understanding of my own mental game and internal dialogue, I gained confidence and self-awareness which has helped me on and off the rock. I also learned effective and targeted strategies to train specific fitness for my goals on a rope. If you want to take your climbing to the next level, I would highly recommend working with Justen!
-Rajiv
--------

More details / grades:

In the summer of 2014 I visited Rifle for the first time and went on a tear. Previously I'd done two 13a's, each in around 6 days of work spread over several weeks. I did two 13a's in 2 and 3-days, respectively. I also did a few 12b's second-go. I implemented several mental strategies that Justen showed me, and the results surprised me.

Fast forward 6 months later, I was starting to get psyched on bouldering. I worked with Justen on similar strategies but also movement precision, power, and a quicker "mental reset" button. I went on a tear at Bishop, sending my first V7, V8, V9, and V10 in a few weeks. Hangboard training gave me the strength to work these problems, but Justen's coaching gave me the mental strategies to pull out the send.

More importantly, I'm calmer when projecting. More positive, more accepting. I'm better at dealing with failure with equanimity and curiosity. Climbing is simply more fun.