Rock Prodigy scheduling question

I've got a bunch of questions regarding the Rock Prodigy training program which I'll post once I've put together my initial training plan. My biggest problem/concern is that I'm planning a climbing trip in March 6-14. If I were to start the program now, I would be just starting the Power-Endurance phase when the trip hits. So, does it make more sense to just keep going with the program as is and take the trip in the PE phase, or should I shave off a week or two of the base fitness phase (given that I've been doing a lot of gym climbing and some campus training for the past 3 weeks) so that my trip lands in the performance phase, or at least the tail end of the PE phase? Thanks.

JCM wrote:Need more details. A vague question like that will get you a vague answer. If you want a good and useful answer, you need to put some specifics out there. The Rock Prodigy program is very flexible, and you will absolutely be able to trim and mold it to put yourself at a peak performance phase at the appropriate time for your trip. However, the tailoring of the program must be custom-designed to fit your abilities and you goals. Things to think about: 1. What sort of climbing have you been doing for the last few months, and where does your fitness stand now? If you've spent the the last month or so doing a bunch of gym mileage, you could just retroactively call that your base-fitness phase and go straight into hangboarding right now. 2. Where is you trip, and what style of climbing? What are your goal routes (if possible, name specific routes)? The training requirements for a bouldering trip (more strength/power, less/no ARC/PE) would be very different from a trip to do long moderate routes in Red Rocks (more arc/mileage/cardio, less strength/power). 3. What is your current ability level? What aspects of you climbing do you feel like you need improvement in, relative to your goal routes? Do you lack power? Endurance?

Absolutely right. I wasn't sure what kind of info would be needed, so I was waiting for this kind of post to provide me with some guidance. Here it goes:

1.) Before reading RCTM, I tried to create one based on the advice I read in Horst's books. I generally first did 4 weeks of "endurance," which focused on traversing and his "moving fingerboard hangs" exercise. Then I did a 3 week strength phase focused on one arm deadpoint lunges, climbing hold touches, and his "pyramid fingerboard hangs." This was followed by a 2 week power phase with 4x4 circuits and campus boarding. I must admit that although I did improve, I felt as though my gains were rather slow and the exercises too ancillary. I just finished the 2 week power phase.

2+3.) I'm planning a week-long trip to the Red (maybe the New, but probably the former). I primarily climb trad in the Adirondacks. I can lead up to 5.9 on trad. On sport, I've led up to 5.10c, but that was only once (not too much sport near me). I'd definitely like to get on:

• Crack Attack (5.9 80' hand crack trad)
• Creature Feature (5.8 100', easy but fun mixed climb involves pulling a big roof on jugs)
• Into the Purple Valley (5.8 95' hand crack trad)
• To Defy The Laws Of Tradition (5.10a 60' pocketed sport route up a slightly overhanging face)
• Oompa (5.10a 60' sport: Start by climbing up on a flake. Continue up following pockets and plates to the top)
• Pogue Ethics (5.9+ 80', fairly straightforward sport climb on plates)

And push myself on some of these:

• No Sleep til Campton (5.10c 80' technical sport line with only a few moves at the grade)
• Boltergeist (5.10b 120' tricky edges at crux)
• Fuzzy Undercling (5.11- 60' sport with a technical crux down low)
• Kentucky Flu (5.10c 85' sport on a gently sloping face on small holds to a large hueco rest. Continue from the hueco out onto a beautiful arete, making use of micro-crimps and knobs)
• Gettin' Lucky in Kentucky (5.10b 60' sport: technical/pumpy climbing featuring pockets, jugs, and sidepulls with a steep finish)
• Air Ride Equipped (5.11a 65', would be my breakthrough into 5.11 grade, but I think it's attainable for me on sport with training. Jug haul to a roof)

Given that I'm primarily a trad climber, I think I've got the endurance, but may lack the dynamic power of bouldering (though I did more of that just before the weather quit on me in November). I am uncertain as to the general nature of these routes, as I've never been to the red, but most seem to be 60-80' technical face climbs with some aggressive jug and pocket climbs).

Here's what I am thinking working back from the climbing trip:

Jan 3-Jan 9: Base Fitness
Jan 10-Jan 16: Base Fitness
Jan 17-Jan 23: Strength
Jan 24-Jan 30: Strength
Jan 31-Feb 6: Power
Feb 7-Feb 13: Power
Feb 14-Feb 20: PE
Feb 21-Feb 27: PE
Feb 28-March 6: PE
March 6-14: Trip

scienceguy288 wrote: Here's what I am thinking working back from the climbing trip: Jan 3-Jan 9: Base Fitness Jan 10-Jan 16: Base Fitness Jan 17-Jan 23: Strength Jan 24-Jan 30: Strength Jan 31-Feb 6: Power Feb 7-Feb 13: Power Feb 14-Feb 20: PE Feb 21-Feb 27: PE Feb 28-March 6: PE March 6-14: Trip

Yeah, it seems to me that sometimes just writing down "Here are my goals, here are my weaknesses, here is what I want more of" makes it a lot clearer what you need to work on.

Looks to me like a sensible compressed schedule given your destination and the amount of time available between now and then. Only 2 weeks of Strength might be a bit scant; more like 3 weeks might be better. Maybe borrow a half-week each from Power and BF, or from power and PE, to find that extra week. Spending a fair bit of time (2.5-3 weeks) on PE is a good decision for a trip to the Red, because of the very PE-dependent nature of the climbing there. Don't underestimate the endurance required in steep sport climbing; there is a much great pump factor than your standard Dacks trad route, due to much more sustained and steeper climbing.

Also, a very important skill at the Red is learning to rest on a jug on steep terrain. You don't have to do this much in the Dacks, at least below 5.11, since you can often find rests on stances, stems, chimneys, etc. At the Red, you'll need to be comfortable hanging out on a good hold on a slightly overhanging wall to chalk, shake out, and lower your heart rate. Honestly, it is probably the most vital skill you can learn to transition from being a trad climber to climbing at the Red. Practice this during both your base fitness and PE phases. During ARC session, traverse or treadwall until moderately pumped, then stop at a good hold on a slightly overhanging wall and spend 2-4 minutes trying to recover as much as possible. Experiment with different body positions, and work on you breathing, heartrate, and relaxation. Once you are totally recovered, start climbing again and do several cycles of this. This will be good basic practice. During PE, try to do some linked boulder circuits with a rest jug halfway through. Do ~3 boulder problems linked together, then stop at a good but not amazing hold to rest (again, on a somewhat overhanging wall), and then do another ~3 boulder problems (all without touching the ground). This will help you get used to going difficult/pumpy climbing, recovering a bit, and then going back into more pumpy climbing straight off the rest. Don't do this for you whole PE phase, though; make sure to do lots of "regular" (no rest) boulder circuits too.

Since you're planning to do some crack climbing while down there, make sure to check out Rock Wars ( mountainproject.com/v/rock-…). It's a must do for 5.10- at the Red.

Compared to Dacks trad climbing, the grades on sport routes at the Red will seem much softer, plus the climbing style is more straightforward and the steep/clean falls make it way safer to push yourself. Most Dacks climbers don't get to push themselves to failure much, and the Red will be a great opportunity to break free from a conservative trad climbing style. Set your sights high, get pumped silly, and don't be afraid to whip.

I'm not an expert and will be experimenting with the periodization model for the first time this winter so someone more experienced can correct me if I'm wrong, but from what I've read/heard your gonna want to take some days off between your PE phase and your trip to maximize your gains. Maybe this is in your plan, but it didn't look like it so something to think about in case you haven't.

Andrew Southworth wrote:I'm not an expert and will be experimenting with the periodization model for the first time this winter so someone more experienced can correct me if I'm wrong, but from what I've read/heard your gonna want to take some days off between your PE phase and your trip to maximize your gains. Maybe this is in your plan, but it didn't look like it so something to think about in case you haven't.

+1
You definately need some 1 week tapering period before your trip. Going on this trip directly from this programm, will you lead to disappointing results, because you will still be tired from all the hard training.

Apart from that, my recommondation for the last weeks is to try to train specifially for your routes. If they a long endurance routes with only bad rests, try to climb similar routes. If they require hard bouldery moves but have decent rests, try to boulder a lot hard problems with some rest in between them and so on.

JCM wrote: Most Dacks climbers don't get to push themselves to failure much, and the Red will be a great opportunity to break free from a conservative trad climbing style. Set your sights high, get pumped silly, and don't be afraid to whip.

Push yourself at Spider's Web and you will eventually fail.

Jon Clark wrote: Push yourself at Spider's Web and you will eventually fail.

The Web is a glorious exception, for sure. So steep, so pumpy. Still one of my favorite crags ever. I did my first routes at various different grades there. I also took one of the biggest / most exciting falls I've ever taken by blowing it on the very last move on the runnout traverse of It's Only Entertainment. Like 16 feet due left of an RP.... bad beta! Totally safe though. I think my partner/belayer was more spooked by it than I was. Oh man, the Dacks are great...

Still, my point stands. Trad climbing, most of the time, makes it a lot harder to really go for it in the same way that you can at a place like the Red.

JCM wrote: The Web is a glorious exception, for sure. So steep, so pumpy. Still one of my favorite crags ever. I did my first routes at various different grades there. I also took one of the biggest / most exciting falls I've ever taken by blowing it on the very last move on the runnout traverse of It's Only Entertainment. Like 16 feet due left of an RP.... bad beta! Totally safe though. I think my partner/belayer was more spooked by it than I was. Oh man, the Dacks are great... Still, my point stands. Trad climbing, most of the time, makes it a lot harder to really go for it in the same way that you can at a place like the Red.

I agree with your overall point. Spider's Web is perhaps my favorite crag as well. Many have taken the whip fighting the barn door while stabbing into the crack at the end of the traverse on It's Only Entertainment; good story!

Not to your main question, but if you can send To Defy and can stick a V2+ compression move, Fuzzy will go down for sure - good luck out there!!

Thanks all. I cut out some of the base training and power phases as I've already been doing some traversing and campusing in a less focused manner. I also really toned down the climbing in the last week preceding the trip so that I only have one workout and that one is an interval workout.