Oh my nuts!

I have a double rack to 3", plus one 4". (1/2 Black Diamond Cams, 1/2 Metolus Cams) I have a set of Black Diamond Stoppers up to a #14. Last night I lost my #12 nut on a route. I have been thinking about adding more nuts to my rack. I like the price of the Black Diamond Stoppers when you buy them as a set, but don't know if I should double up on the same brand. Would you recommend getting another full set or would you recommend carring another make/model to handle a broader set of routes?

^^^ This. Get the full set of DMMs and you'll be happy you did.

I found this good article comparing nuts and DMM does seem to win out as the favorite. I like my big nuts. It is ashame that the sets only go up to a #11. (Is that comparable to a BD #11 in size?)

mountainproject.com/v/dmm-w…

Br'er Rabbit said: "This. Get the full set of DMMs and you'll be happy you did."

+1 I have a full set of their wallnuts + a set of the peenuts. Love them.

I'll put in another plug for DMM offsets.

Another thumbs-up for DMM offsets. I have a set of Wallnuts as well and often don't carry them and rarely place them other than obvious nut placements, and for anchors.

Just got a set of offsets a few weeks ago and have been placing them way more frequently. I threw the largest 3 DMM brass offsets in with them as well, I think that's going to be my new nut rack for granite trad.

Jake Jones wrote:I think the blue DMM is the biggest one (there is a smaller blue as well I think). Yes, it is as big or bigger than the BD #11. I think it's more around the 12 or 13 in comparison.

Comparing the two here, the longest dimensions for the #11 DMM offset (the big blue one) are about the same as the dimensions of their counterpart edges on a BD #12. The smallest offset (#7 DMM) is about a little bigger than a BD #6.

If you select your nut based on color (I don't) the colors of the DMM offsets only kind-of align with nuts of a similar size in the BD or WC line.

T.J. Esposito wrote:Another thumbs-up for DMM offsets. I have a set of Wallnuts as well and often don't carry them and rarely place them other than obvious nut placements, and for anchors. Just got a set of offsets a few weeks ago and have been placing them way more frequently. I threw the largest 3 DMM brass offsets in with them as well, I think that's going to be my new nut rack for granite trad.

I do the same. DMM Alloy Offsets on one carabiner and another carabiner with the two largest brass offsets and a set of peanuts.

I too add the next couple smaller sizes in brass....
Then I supplement, most commonly, with a set of Wild Country Superlight Rocks.
Great combination for almost any rock type.

Chris D wrote: Comparing the two here, the longest dimensions for the #11 DMM offset (the big blue one) are about the same as the dimensions of their counterpart edges on a BD #12. The smallest offset (#7 DMM) is about a little bigger than a BD #6. If you select your nut based on color (I don't) the colors of the DMM offsets only kind-of align with nuts of a similar size in the BD or WC line.

I see what you mean. I picked up a #8 DMM to replace my #12 BD. (Sizes were comparable) If I like it, I am going to buy a set.

I have the wallnuts and the dmm offsets. I would get the offsets if you already have a set of stoppers. I place stoppers more than most, and obviously it depends where you will be climbing, but if I was going to double up on just a few sizes it'd be wallnuts #3-#6 (silver, gold, blue, red). It could be nice to have another #2 wallnut as well but that can be covered by the brass.

I now have a full set of BD stoppers, a single DMM walnut, a set of #7-11 offsets and a single #6 brass offset. The offsets and brass should arrive next week. I am looking forward to experiencing the hype these get.

We have a set of Black Diamond stoppers, and we ended up getting a set of Camp Pro nuts. We loved them so much that we doubled up on the set. I'd highly suggest checking them out. They're usually cheap, too.