West Face of the Leaning Tower

Hey yall, i'm going to climb the tower in a few weeks. Where do you need heads if the old ones are dead? Which heads?

Thanks!

You won't need any.

Mark Hudon wrote:You won't need any.

+1

--Beta Spoiler--

Pitches 1, 3, 4 and 5 are likely the only spots you'll come across fixed/blown heads. All are relatively easily bypassed. There is a blind, reachy and airy hook placement on Pitch 1 where the C2F heads are blown...that hook move is truck. Inverted hook moves do wonders on P5 where the heads used to be...

I wouldn't even bring heads...

GL

Awesome. Thanks!

alleyehave wrote: Inverted hook moves

Not being an aid climber, I am visualizing underclinging with a hook. Is that what an inverted hook move is?

Darren in Vegas wrote: Not being an aid climber, I am visualizing underclinging with a hook. Is that what an inverted hook move is?

think more crowbar than undercling.

Darren in Vegas wrote: Not being an aid climber, I am visualizing underclinging with a hook. Is that what an inverted hook move is?

Kind of...and I should have specified inverted CAM hooks...

In fact, you should buy a set of my butter knives and spend a little time cleaning up the route a bit. There are at least a dozen deadheads and heads with broken wires that could be removed.

Where does one find a set of Hudon butter knives?

PM me.

You can surely make your own. I buy a 1/2 and 5/8" Dasco chisels and use a cheap bench grinder to shape them. The two chisels cost me $10 total. I'm charging $25 which includes shipping.

I need to put a link to them on my (http:www.elcappanos.com) El Cap Panos.