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West Face of the Leaning Tower


Original Post
· · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

Hey yall, i'm going to climb the tower in a few weeks. Where do you need heads if the old ones are dead? Which heads?

Thanks!

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 415

You won't need any.

alleyehave · · San Diego, CA · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 135
Mark Hudon wrote:You won't need any.
+1

--Beta Spoiler--

Pitches 1, 3, 4 and 5 are likely the only spots you'll come across fixed/blown heads. All are relatively easily bypassed. There is a blind, reachy and airy hook placement on Pitch 1 where the C2F heads are blown...that hook move is truck. Inverted hook moves do wonders on P5 where the heads used to be...

I wouldn't even bring heads...

GL
· · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

Awesome. Thanks!

Darren in Vegas · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 2,180
alleyehave wrote: Inverted hook moves
Not being an aid climber, I am visualizing underclinging with a hook. Is that what an inverted hook move is?
Phill T · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2008 · Points: 80
Darren in Vegas wrote: Not being an aid climber, I am visualizing underclinging with a hook. Is that what an inverted hook move is?
think more crowbar than undercling.
alleyehave · · San Diego, CA · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 135
Darren in Vegas wrote: Not being an aid climber, I am visualizing underclinging with a hook. Is that what an inverted hook move is?
Kind of...and I should have specified inverted CAM hooks...
Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 415

In fact, you should buy a set of my butter knives and spend a little time cleaning up the route a bit. There are at least a dozen deadheads and heads with broken wires that could be removed.

Tug · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 0

Where does one find a set of Hudon butter knives?

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 415

PM me.

Butterknives

You can surely make your own. I buy a 1/2 and 5/8" Dasco chisels and use a cheap bench grinder to shape them. The two chisels cost me $10 total. I'm charging $25 which includes shipping.

I need to put a link to them on my (http:www.elcappanos.com) El Cap Panos.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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