Loose Anchor bolts at Deers Leap, VT

The anchor bolts at the top of Monkey/Monkey Direct were pretty loose when I was up there yesterday. I tightened them as best I could with my nut tool and backed them up with a cam for my anchor.

I'll bring a wrench with me next time I head up there to tighten them unless someone beats me to it, but if you use them keep an eye on them.

-JG

I plan on replaceing the anchors on Monkey and Center crack with Fixe Glue in. the existing bolts will not tighten up completly and being 5 piece are easily over tourqed. I would rather not buy the materials myself as i feel those who make their liveing guideing on those anchors should fund the replacement. I would however prefer to do the work myself.

Nick, try tapping the bolt tight then funking it a little to see if the cone sets. It may then tighten up fine.

I suspect that the holes are not deep enough. hand drilled 3.5"stainless but drilled just deep enough to accept the bolts. they were nice and tight 13 yrs ago when they went in but the stone has ground down under the metelious rap hangers from them being twisted back and forth top ropeing so now the bolt bottoms out before it gets tight. these two sets of anchors get just gobbs of top rope time with a significant part of that use comming from local guide service. I sent them a link to Fixe glue in anchors a year ago but never heard back from them....

Nick, I've definitely gotten a lot of use out of those anchors and don't mind helping with materials or labor. If you want to let me know when you're thinking about doing it I'll try and get some glue-ins for you.

-Josh

I talked to Steve from green Mtn rock climbing/ VT Adventure toures today and he is going to pony up the materials. Good Job Steve!
THANK YOU!

Nick - I think Matt from GMRCC Quechee may already have some of the glue ins...I know he bought some last year for some new stuff he bolted.

Nick....like M. Sprague indicated, try attaching a funkiness device and funking them a couple times and then tightened the bolts down...and use a torque wrench.

13yrs of heavy TR use. lots of guideing, ROTC rapelling 70 cadets for a full day etc. Bolts in not super tight hand drilled holes flexing for many years. 3/8th 5 piece is only 5/16th actual bolt. these two anchors need replacement INMOP.

Good on Steve for taking care of the bolts, Thanks Steve!

-JG