Pennsylvania cracks

I'm blown away at how many cracks there are at bellefonte. Really exciting for me. I think bellefonte will give me enough that this season I wont have to leave PA that much!

Chopsticktown that roof crack looks amazing! I've come to know and love roof cracks. I'm going to seek it out and give her a go (well I dont know what the whole climb entails so at least taking the time to scout)

Does anyone have a copy (digital or otherwise) of the/a guidebook for bellefonte? I would love it to have something indepth and solid for when I'm there.

I tried to get a hold of a certain local (jb) but haven't received a reply in at least a month and I dont want to nag the dude for beta when there is some out there.

I appreciate your time.

This threads given me a new look on PA climbing (I am still compiling a database, slowly but doing it). So many quality routes, maybe not all old rag splitters (ill be there this weekend!) But fine routes.

I did some exploring recently and found 2 solid looking splitters at pond bank. They are most likely virgin as they are past where most even know to roam.

I wonder how many unknown cracks there are in PA because unless you're a crack climber you're not going to have an eye for them and most likely pass them up.

Keep your eyes open!

The Stoned Master wrote:maybe not all old rag splitters (ill be there this weekend!

Have fun dude. Get on Oh My God.

Seth: that strawberry and bushwhack are on my list. 46 and perfectly sunny Saturday. Stoked!

I've only been up there twice, the first time it was July (STUPID) and the second time was about a month ago when i was blessed with an upper resperatory infection the day before we went. made the approach just wonderful. Spent Saturday laid out in the cave at the reflector oven watching people have fun on Strawberry Fields after nearly od'ing on Dayquil then got screwed by snowmelt on Sunday that left all the cracks wet. Oh My God is the only thing i got to do, but that alone made it worth the hike up there. Can't wait to go back. Sounds like you'll have perfect weather.

Nice jake! Thanks for the heads up. Seth maybe we can share a rope some time down there? I'm sure ill make a few trips down there this season along with bellefonte.

Yeah man i'd b psyched to get down there again. My schedule clears up toward the end of February.

Jake you're the man! Thank you for this. I'm blown away I hadnt heard of the place sooner. My friend put it (he'd been there once at this time): Its as if God himself plucked several lines out of Yosemite and dropped them in Virginia. Plenty of fine routes but several world class. Thanks again Jake man! Maybe we can share a rope together there as well some time soon?

Hey Jake,
Complete thread drift but I gotta ask. Can you walk off from OMG dihedral? I've seen it a couple times from RO and it looks sweet but a friend of mine who's a competent leader said he was falling so much following it he was hysterical with laughter. I'd love to TR that thing but wouldn't wanna rap down and have to french free/ improvise aid my way out.

--Stone Master,
While you're at RO check out Chasm Crack left of Report to Sick Bay. Its full value climbing that I think is listed at 5.8. It is certainly worth the time after you've admired the beauty that is Strawberry Fields.

Jake Jones wrote:Absolutely. Shoot me a PM when you're headed up there, and if I can make it, I'd love to go back. I haven't been there in about a year. My buddy busted his ankle up pretty badly and had to be air lifted off the mountain. Since then, the 'ole ball and chain has been staunch opposition for me going back. I probably won't be able to go until March sometime, but if I'm available, I could meet you either in the parking lot at Berry Hollow, or at whatever crag you're headed to. Idk what level you're leading at, but if you're around the .10 range, Reflector Oven and God's Area as well as Wall that Dreams are made of will suit you well. If you have anyone else in your party that's below that, or you want routes below the .10 level, Summit Crags and PATC Wall are your best bet. Unless you're a super badass with a high pain tolerance, bring tape. The granite is rough as hell with crystals that will shred you if you shift your jams the slightest bit. Take some pictures and get on some of the obscure ones if you can. The Old Rag page on MP needs some supplementation. If you have any questions on locating specific crags, I've wandered that place far more than I've climbed on it looking for them- and finding them. The only ones that have eluded me are Sunset and Wall that Dreams are Made Of- but I've never actually looked for the latter- there's not much there (at WTDAMO) and it's still a little above me. The bulk of the classic stuff is all at RO, God's, and WTDAMO- which are all in the same general area. Go as light as you can, the hike in isn't bad- just long, but getting out of the "bowl" at RO will work your quads. Have fun man.

I definitely want in on this MP Old Rag trip. Can we tentatively plan for 3/23? I could do 3/9 but was looking to go to the new that weekend.

As of now 3/23 works for me. I think it'd be cool to meet up with people who've I've never met to climb. I'm game.

Or a complete nightmare. haha. But either way it'd be memorable!

My wife and I might be heading down to Old Rag in March sometime too. Wouldn't mind meeting up with you guys there if we happen to be going the same days.

Planning climbing trips in Virginia on a PA thread...

Spontaneity is healthy: let's have an unofficial old rag climb fest then. Share beta, ropes, food, music, stories possibly even around a camp fire? Some world class routes and new, just as motivated as myself, people sounds good to me. Everyones welcome to come celebrate crack climbing at one of our nations best quality (not quantit) spots.

Planning climbing trips in Virginia on a PA thread...that's classic PA climbers right there.

Spontaneity is healthy: let's have an unofficial old rag climb fest then. Share beta, ropes, food, music, stories possibly even around a camp fire? Some world class routes and new, just as motivated as myself, people sounds good to me. Everyones welcome to come celebrate crack climbing at one of our nations best quality (not quantit) spots with us.

PTR wrote: 3. The Hermitage/Shaffer Rocks has some: Rappel Crack, Chockstone problem (now apparently called "Wedgies"), Lichen Lizard (easy).

rappel crack is 5.6, classic and awesome. Wedgies was called wedgies back in 1993 when I started climbing there... Lichen lizard; first thing I ever led. 5.2 and I was scared.

I love schaffers. Great rock. I take teens climbing there every summer because its a nice approach with quality routes. I've never lead there though.

There's that corner crack there I'm not sure anyones mentioned (don't remember the name so they might have). Its in the left facing corner right next to that beautiful 5.11 overhanging route/face.

White rock acres has two cracks on the wall just past the "main" 60ft wall. A few years ago my buddy and I climbed them; there was a dude there who said they were 5.5/5.6 (agreed). I don't remember much about them but they are cracks and they are in PA. Anyone know anything on these? Hard to miss these if you're facing the wall.

I've checked out the cracks at Minister Creek (3 or so I think). The problems are that they're on a north-facing wall, under a heavy canopy of trees, with a good bit of ground water. Right now the vegetation is heavy. Even if you were to take the time to clean them, they may never dry out well. There is that long OW that's always in Minister Creek pictures. Looks tough, never climbed it.