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Pennsylvania cracks


Larry S · · Easton, PA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 840

Stoney has some stuff, but i haven't done much of it. Stump Crack is a classic, but it's not pure crack climbing. I've got a scan of an old guide I can e-mail you. Access there is "Sensitive/Tolerated", some of it is right behind people's houses, so you need to be quiet there.

Kyle Stapp · · Pennsylvania · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 3,935

Larry, I would greatly appreciate the scanned guide. Any info/history on PA climbing is welcome. Thorspedigree@gmail.com is my e-mail. Thank you!

Seth Derr · · harrisburg, pa · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 2,060

There's a skethy .11a one move wonder at the far end of the wall that i thought was pretty cool. I think the name had something to do with the moon. Not sure, i've only been there once and a lot of it was wet, but walking along the wall it looked like there was plenty there to do.

robrobrobrob · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 10

Strider... is a classic. Especially if you're tall.

Jon Clark · · Philadelphia, PA · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 637
Larry S wrote:Stoney has some stuff, but i haven't done much of it. Stump Crack is a classic, but it's not pure crack climbing. I've got a scan of an old guide I can e-mail you. Access there is "Sensitive/Tolerated", some of it is right behind people's houses, so you need to be quiet there.
And as such you shouldn't be spraying about the place to stangers on the internet especially when you haven't "done much of it". If you are that interested in helping the guy out, just PM him.
Rogerlarock · · Nedsterdam, Colorado · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 5

I did a route that sure looks like the one pictured in the link for the "whale wall".
just west of Shamokin Dam, near Sunbury. Very odd scene with an obvious mine fire going on [smoke coming out of the ground].
If memory serves the rock was not quality.

Jason Lantz · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 170

All the stuff at bellfonte....

Mercury and Iodine at the main wall at Moqanaqua...

strider and a couple of finger cracks to the left at stoney ridge...

Hemlock at Tillbury...

Kyle Stapp · · Pennsylvania · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 3,935

Thanks jason. Keep em coming guys; I appreciate the input and enjoy hearing/talking about PA rock (especially cracks).

Rogerlarock · · Nedsterdam, Colorado · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 5

There's quite a bit of crack climbing in the Allegheny NF. Too bad it's all conglomerate/grit that requires 7 rolls of tape per hand!
But seriously, Minister Creek does have some cracks.

chopsticktown Moore · · Blandon, PA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 10

There is a massive fingertip roof crack at Mocanaqua that according to the Blue Biner guidebook for PA has never been free climbed. It has been aided at A2 though. You walk along Paradise and go over the big coal hill while still following the half buried cliff line and then while walking for a few minutes you will come across it. I say its about 20 off the ground but goes on for about 40 or so feet.

Fingertip roof crack!

Dan Cottle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 0
Alvaro Arnal wrote:From back in my day living in NEPA I remember there is a burly fingers roof crack at an area that we called the Devil's Kitchen. It's a small outcropping of rock above I-81 between Scranton and Clarks Summit. I believe this roof crack went at 12+/13-.
Is devils kitchen the same area as the one at summit point?

At the morgan highway ridge there is a horizontal finger tip roof crack like the one pictured above but likely a bit shorter than that. I have heard it has never been climbed but has been aided. There was gear left in it for a long time but I think someone got it out recently.
Alvaro Arnal · · Aspen, CO · Joined May 2010 · Points: 1,505
Dan Cottle wrote: Is devils kitchen the same area as the one at summit point?
Yeah same area. Park at Summit Point apartments and walk back to the cliff.
Kyle Stapp · · Pennsylvania · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 3,935

There are two cracks at white rock acres that are side by side (similar to castor and pollux at seneca) and located at the rock outcrop/wall/crag just past the main/60ft wall. I climbed them a couple of years ago. 5.5/5.6ish.

Anyone know anything about them? Are they clean? Can you get consecutive jams? I don't remember the details and am unwilling to drive to the rock just to scout out these two routes.

Kyle Stapp · · Pennsylvania · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 3,935

El crackitan and colemans at bellefonte do they have bolts at the top? Also is it walk off?

Thank you.

Kyle Stapp · · Pennsylvania · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 3,935

In your experience, opinion, what is the hardest crack in PA?

Is there a concensus on the hardest crack climb in PA? Do we have any notorious cracks?

Besides the crack mentioned in this thread earlier is there any unclimbed (free) cracks?

PA (we) should create a PA crack circuit, have it be `official`. The circuit could be the all around (judged by many) most quality (hard or not) finger through chimney climbs in PA. It'll add some fun and spicyness to climbing in our state. What do you all think?

John Shippling · · morongo valley, ca · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 0
The Stoned Master wrote:El crackitan and colemans at bellefonte do they have bolts at the top? Also is it walk off? Thank you.
both climbs are walkoffs, Ive climbed all over the united states and colmans a fag is by far the funnest crack climb ive ever done! I heard the quarry is open season again anyone else hear anything?
Kyle Stapp · · Pennsylvania · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 3,935

Tomorrow 1/9 it is supposed to be 51 degrees and sunny. I have taken the day off of work and will be spending the day with my wife at whiskey springs.

Whiskey crack, big brack, horrible crack and any other crack that I see (in between boulders, etc) will be climbed. I'm bringing a pad, a six pack and a rope and gear (practice placing pro on lead at strenuous spots) for this `crack training day`.

Telling everyone in case someone wants to join.

Rogerlarock · · Nedsterdam, Colorado · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 5

SDI Crack is pretty tough. Most likely not the hardest. Hmmm, there was a very thin crack at the quarry that I was trying with Jimmy but then the whole left side of the dang thing fell off. Ah well.

As to your question of weather PA has any 'notorious'cracks. One does come to mind.

Bawls E. Climber · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 35

There are indeed some very long cracks at the Whale Wall. Somewhere I have some pictures taken around 2002 I'll try to locate them and get them posted.

robrobrobrob · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 10

Just thought of these in Bellefonte....Dismal world Left, and Dismal World Right..they go at about 5.7 or so.

But in between, up the flake, then traverse the hand crack out to a small crack that I never did finish off. I think it was 12b or something. Sexy Love Slots... If I recall the 13 is right next to that one.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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