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what are the best climbing shoes?

Wilson On The Drums · · Woodbury, MN · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 940

I've been more than happy with my 5.10 galileos. they are spendy but I got them for my birthday so I didnt pay for them... Anyways, I sized them at my street shoe size and they work great. Snug for sure, but I love the fit. They have thick rubber and are stiff, but I've found that to be really useful in the Black Hills of SD. The sharp granite crystals have done little to their integrity and you can stand on pretty much anything with them. They rubber works on the slabby stuff too. Haven't had them on much limestone or cracks, but I can imagine they'd work just fine on both of those as well. good luck.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065
JesseT wrote: Sorta, but not entirely. I love my miuras, they fit me perfectly (I know, I just dropped the p-word). The curl in my toe is great for face moves and overhangs, and is passable in cracks up to cupped hands, then it starts getting unnecessarily painful because my distal hallux is being cranked on like I'm doing a one-toe stand. For pure cracks I'll use my mythos, which are a little big on me (not a great fit for edging/face/overhang) but are comfortable (well, relatively speaking) for cracks. That said, my floppy mythos were my only shoes for a while and they did take me up to V4 before they really started being an impediment. Now, you're probably not going to have the easiest time in a shoe that doesn't fit you well. If you find several that do fit you well, that's when the decision making comes into play. Edit: What it really comes down to is as long as your shoe isn't actively holding you back, it's fine.

i use miuras and katanas for everything outside

obviously there are difference between shoes that fit you, some are more suitable for long multi, others for overhangs, and others for cracks ... etc ...

but at the end of the day they MUST fit yr feet well ...

while shoes can make a substantial difference, its not the end all people make it to be ... a good climber can climb decently in different shoes as long as they fit ... and "good shoes" wont improve a crap climber substantially if they dont correct fundamental flaws

every climber has different feet ... and a lot of these internet recommendations are useless IMO for someone else ... for example i cant stand mocassins or pontas, yet we all know that sharma has done some effing hard climbs in them ... others here think the defys are shiet, yet theres people who boulder v13/14 in em ... etc ...

the point is simple get the shoes that fit yr feet the best for the purpose you intend to use ... you want to focus on footwork, not the pain in yr feet from poor fitting shoes

all the internet votes in the world will not make the shoes fit yr feet ... go to yr local REI and try on different pairs for hours ...

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0
The Dread Pirate Killis wrote:I had something funny to say, but I'm deleting it myself because it violated Guideline #1. Doesn't that take the wind right out of your sails?

Ahh come on now Killis, I come on here mostly just to read your posts.

Brendan Blanchard · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 590

Most people go with 5.10 or Sportiva's, but don't forget Scarpa. My first several pairs were Evolv, Sportiva, and Five.Ten, but I recently bought a pair of Scarpa Instinct slippers, and they fit my feet incredibly well.

Long story short: try everything and whatever fits your foot best (not size wise) but actual anatomy, size accordingly for your activity.

Marty Theriault · · Quebec, QC · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 310

All around LaSp Muira lace
Aggressive LaSp Testarossa
Slab/Crack 5.10 Moc

Matt N · · CA · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 476
Andrew Haag wrote: If you climb on mostly granite, dont buy 5.10's or your rubber will be gone quicker than a nascar pit stop. Las Sportiva makes the most sold longest lasting shoes on the market.

Yeah, the old traddies just hate c4 rubber in Yosemite.

Rob Selter · · running springs Ca · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 125

Flip flops or just go with flammable footwear it's all the rage!

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425
Elena Sera Jose wrote:im looking for new climbing shoes any ideas?

What I would recommend is go and try on and find all the shoes that FIT, and THEN come back and ask which one of these shoes are the best.

If the shoes don't fit, no matter if they will climb like Sharma or not...well they don't fit. Is your foot symmetrical or asymmetrical? Skinny or wide? Morton's toe? All those things need to be considered, not which shoe is best. European shoes don't really fit well on my foot, but US brands do.

Fit is king.

MountainManny · · Idaho Springs · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 785

I agree with bearbreeder....everyone is so different.
I had a hip surgery so my right foot plays differently than my left....and this causes ridiculous problems with some brands for me.

Some advice for the OP...cause it sounds like you need it....

First try climbing...maybe try a gym where you can rent shoes...or an REI possibly (not sure if they rent r.c. shoes) and get out on some rock....you may not even like it and could save yourself the $100 you would probably end up investing in the wrong choice anyhow.

You are in Colorado???? Front Range Climbing will get you on the rock with all gear for under $100 per.person per.day....maybe that would get you the feel you need. frontrangeclimbing.com/

Jeremy Hand · · Northern VA · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 100

The best looking shoe IMO is the NEW black Team! They look sick!

rockcreek.com/five-ten/team…

I'm a Sportiva junky myself

1. Solution
2. Muira
3. Testarossa

Mike Lane · · AnCapistan · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 880
Jeremy Hand wrote:The best looking shoe IMO is the NEW black Team! They look sick! rockcreek.com/five-ten/team… I'm a Sportiva junky myself 1. Solution 2. Muira 3. Testarossa

So that's why the blue ones were being sold off for $99. I don't think a different color/design is worth $60. Anyway, I have noticed a significant difference as to what my foot will stick on with those versus my little-too-big Anasazi Verdi's.

And speaking of Anasazi lace ups, anyone have beta on the Quantums? I need a good vertical to steep slab shoe as the Teams aren't that and my Verde's are big enough to wear for an hour or so w/out discomfort (as in a tad too big).

Jeremy Hand · · Northern VA · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 100
Delta Bravo wrote: So that's why the blue ones were being sold off for $99. I don't think a different color/design is worth $60. Anyway, I have noticed a significant difference as to what my foot will stick on with those versus my little-too-big Anasazi Verdi's. And speaking of Anasazi lace ups, anyone have beta on the Quantums? I need a good vertical to steep slab shoe as the Teams aren't that and my Verde's are big enough to wear for an hour or so w/out discomfort (as in a tad too big).

They may play that part perfectly but my girlfriend and I haven't really enjoyed them. The heel cup pinches out achilles and kills during the first climb and doesn't lighten up (they are downsized a bit).

A buddy of mine, whom mostly climbs trad, thought they were garbage and didn't care for them at all. The rubber wore really quickly for him and he didn't get the performance he expected.

Jonathan S · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 2,114

scarpa technos

Michael Slater · · Denver · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 0
Kyle Kimball wrote:The La Sportiva Katana is a pretty good all around shoe, as long as you dont fit it too tight.

+1 on the Katana, I just switched to a La Sportiva Miura of the same size and I love the shoe as well but they don't stretch. Should have gotten a half size larger.

germsauce Epstein · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 55

dorking out on a troll post? you people are too bored. get off the computer and go climb while i'm stuck inside.

Spencer Pitman · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 5

Where we're going, we don't need shoes.

Martin Harris · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 200

They r not cheap but I wear my tc pros at the creek for cracks all day trad and mutipitch sport. Otherwise I am in my muiras for hard sport/ thin trad and I wear mythos on easy days to save the rubber on my super expensive shoes. And despite the cost after resoleing the tc pros and muiras a few times it doesn't seam so expensive for the initial purchase.

Adam Kimmerly · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2005 · Points: 355
Elena Sera Jose wrote:im looking for new climbing shoes any ideas?

There are no "best" climbing shoes.

The best shoes are the shoes that fit you best. Beyond that, it's a matter of picking a style that suits the style of climbing you do.

Dan CO · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 60

the ones that are having the most fun

Elena Sera Jose · · colorado · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 350

Got my sharmas flops fir now supermocs fir later...peace!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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